What a heating element does and when you need to replace it
The heating element in your RV water heater is the part that actually warms the water — it's a metal rod that heats up when electricity flows through it. Over time, mineral buildup from hard water or straightforward wear can damage the element until it stops heating altogether. If your water heater is running but the water stays cold, or if you see corrosion around the element itself, replacement is usually the next step.
Most RV water heaters use one of two types: a tank-style heater with an electric element (similar to a home water heater), or a tankless on-demand system. This guide covers the tank-style electric element, which is the most common in RVs and the easiest to replace yourself. Tankless systems typically require professional service.
Key Takeaways
- RV heating elements come in different wattages (usually 1000W, 1500W, or 2000W) and voltage ratings (12V, 120V, or 240V), so you must match your old element exactly before ordering a replacement.
- You will need to drain the water tank completely, unscrew the old element from the bottom or side of the tank, and screw in the new one — a job that takes 30 minutes to an hour with basic tools.
- The element is held in place by a metal flange with bolts; if the bolts are stuck, explore penetrating oil and waiting a few hours often loosens them without damage.
- After installation, refill the tank slowly and run water through a faucet before turning on the element to remove air from the lines, which prevents the element from burning out.
Finding the right replacement element for your RV model
The heating element you need depends on three things: your RV's water heater brand and model, the voltage your RV runs on, and the wattage the original element used. Check your water heater's nameplate — usually a sticker on the outside of the tank — for the model number and voltage. Write down the exact wattage and voltage you see there.
Common RV water heater brands include Suburban, Atwood, and Dometic. Each brand makes elements in different sizes: 1000W, 1500W, and 2000W are standard wattages, and voltage is usually 120V for single-phase RVs or 240V for larger rigs. If you cannot find the nameplate, contact the RV manufacturer with your RV's year and model — they can tell you what water heater came factory-installed.
Order the replacement element from an RV parts supplier like Camping World, Amazon, or a local RV service center. Bring the old element with you if you are buying in person, since a visual match is the fastest way to confirm you have the right part. Online, search for your heater brand and model number plus "heating element" to find the exact match.
Tools and materials you will need
Replacing a heating element requires only basic tools. Gather a wrench or socket set (usually 1 1/16 inch or 1 1/4 inch, depending on your element), a bucket or drain pan, a garden hose or water pump to drain the tank, and penetrating oil like WD-40 if the bolts are corroded. You may also want a rag and a small brush to clean the tank opening before you install the new element.
New heating elements sometimes come with a rubber gasket or seal already attached; if yours does not, you will need to buy a replacement gasket separately. The gasket prevents leaks around the element, so do not skip it. Most RV parts stores sell gaskets in bulk packs for a few dollars.
Step-by-step replacement process
Start by turning off power to the water heater at your RV's breaker panel and letting the tank cool for at least an hour. Then locate the drain valve at the bottom of the tank — it looks like a small faucet or a plug with a handle. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve (or place a bucket underneath if there is no valve connection) and open it fully to drain all the water. This step is critical: if you try to remove the element with water still in the tank, water will spill everywhere and you risk damaging the element or the tank.
Once the tank is empty, locate the heating element itself. In most RV tanks, it is mounted on the bottom or the side of the tank behind a metal flange — a flat plate with bolts around it. Use your wrench to loosen the bolts holding the flange. If the bolts are stuck from corrosion, spray them with penetrating oil, wait 15 to 30 minutes, and try again. Do not force them; patience and oil work better than strength.
Once the bolts are loose, unscrew them by hand and set them aside. Carefully pull the old element straight out of the tank — it may be stuck, so wiggle it gently side to side as you pull. Once it is out, inspect the inside of the tank opening for mineral deposits or corrosion. Use a brush or rag to clean the opening and the threads where the new element will sit.
Insert the new element into the opening, making sure the gasket or seal sits flush against the tank. Hand-tighten the bolts first to hold the element in place, then use your wrench to tighten them in a crisscross pattern (like tightening a car wheel) to may support even pressure. Tighten firmly but do not over-tighten, which can crack the element or strip the threads.
Refilling and testing the new element
Close the drain valve and begin refilling the tank slowly with fresh water. Open a hot water faucet inside your RV and let water run until it flows steadily — this removes air from the lines. Air trapped in the system can cause the heating element to overheat and burn out, so this step is not optional. Once water flows without sputtering, close the faucet and finish filling the tank.
Wait 10 to 15 minutes for the tank to fill completely, then turn the breaker back on to restore power to the water heater. Set the thermostat to your desired temperature and wait 20 to 30 minutes. Feel the hot water line coming out of the tank — it should be warm or hot to the touch. If the water stays cold after 30 minutes, check that the breaker is fully on and that the thermostat is set above the minimum temperature. If it is still not heating, the element may be defective and will need to be replaced again.
Common problems and how to avoid them
The most frequent mistake is forgetting to bleed air from the lines before turning on the element. Air pockets cause the element to overheat in seconds, which can burn it out permanently. Always run a faucet until water flows smoothly before powering up the heater.
Another common issue is over-tightening the bolts, which cracks the element or strips the threads in the tank. Tighten until snug, then stop — you should not need to strain. If a bolt will not tighten after a few turns, the threads may be damaged and you may need a professional to repair the tank.
Mineral buildup inside the tank shortens the life of any heating element. If you live in an area with hard water, consider flushing your water heater tank once a year by opening the drain valve and letting water run through until it clears. This removes sediment and extends element life significantly.
When to call a professional instead
If the bolts will not loosen even after soaking in penetrating oil for several hours, or if you see cracks or holes in the tank itself, the tank may need professional repair or replacement. Attempting to force stuck bolts risks damaging the tank permanently.
If your RV uses a tankless water heater or a combination heating system (electric plus propane), element replacement is more complex and usually requires a technician. The same applies if your RV has a 240V element and you are not comfortable working with higher-voltage electrical systems.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a heating element usually last?
Most RV heating elements last three to five years with regular use, though hard water can shorten that to one or two years. If you notice the water heating more slowly than before, the element is likely beginning to fail and replacement will be needed soon.
Can I use a different wattage element than the original?
No — the wattage and voltage must match exactly. Using a different wattage can overload your RV's electrical system or cause the element to heat too slowly. Always order the same wattage and voltage as the original.
What if water leaks from around the element after I install it?
A leak usually means the gasket is not seated properly or the bolts are not tight enough. Drain the tank again, remove the element, check that the gasket is not damaged or twisted, and reinstall it. Tighten the bolts firmly in a crisscross pattern.
Do I need to turn off the breaker before draining the tank?
Yes — always turn off power at the breaker first. This prevents electrical shock and protects the element from damage if it runs dry while you are working.
How much does a replacement heating element cost?
Heating elements typically cost between $30 and $80 depending on wattage and brand. Gaskets are usually $5 to $15. Prices vary by supplier and availability, so compare a few sources before ordering.