A 20-foot RV awning complete kit includes the fabric panel, roller tube, mounting brackets, arms, hardware, and installation instructions—everything needed to replace or install an awning on an RV with a 20-foot wall length
When manufacturers call a kit "complete," they mean you should not need to buy additional structural parts separately. The fabric itself is pre-cut to 20 feet, the roller mechanism is assembled, and the brackets are sized to fit standard RV rail systems. However, "complete" does not mean you get every tool or every optional feature—you may still need a drill, a level, or a helper to install it, and add-ons like LED lighting or wind sensors are usually sold separately.
The 20-foot measurement refers to the width of the awning when it extends from your RV, not the length of the RV itself. A 20-foot awning suits RVs roughly 32 to 40 feet long, though the actual fit depends on where the awning rail is mounted on your specific model. Before ordering, measure the length of the existing awning rail or the space where you plan to mount it.
Key Takeaways
- A complete kit includes the fabric panel, roller tube, mounting brackets, support arms, and fasteners, but you will need basic hand tools and usually a helper to install it.
- The 20-foot width is the distance the awning extends from your RV when open, not a measure of your RV's length.
- Fabric material—acrylic, vinyl, or polyester—affects durability, UV resistance, and price, and varies by brand and kit tier.
- Installation typically takes two to four hours and requires drilling into your RV's exterior, so read the manual and check your warranty before starting.
- Kits from different manufacturers fit different rail systems, so confirm your RV's rail type (Carefree, Dometic, or universal) before ordering.
What is actually inside a complete kit
The fabric panel is the largest component. It is pre-sewn and hemmed, usually with reinforced edges and grommets or loops for attachment. Most 20-foot kits use acrylic fabric (common brands include Sunbrella), vinyl, or a polyester blend. Acrylic resists UV fading better than vinyl and costs more; vinyl is cheaper and easier to clean but may fade or crack in intense sun over time. Polyester sits between the two in price and performance.
The roller tube is a hollow aluminum or steel cylinder that the fabric wraps around. It sits inside the awning rail and turns as you crank or motor the awning open and closed. The tube is pre-assembled with the fabric already attached in most kits, so you do not unroll and reattach it yourself. Some kits include a hand crank; motorized versions require a separate motor unit, which is not always included in the "complete" kit price.
Mounting brackets bolt to your RV's exterior wall and hold the awning rail in place. These vary by RV model and rail type. Universal brackets fit most standard rails, but some RVs use proprietary systems (Carefree, Dometic, or Lippert are common). The kit should specify which rail type it fits. Support arms extend from the brackets when the awning is open and hold the fabric taut. Most kits include two arms, though larger awnings sometimes need three.
Hardware includes bolts, washers, and fasteners. Some kits provide sealant or weatherstripping to prevent water from entering where the rail meets your RV. Installation instructions are printed or digital; quality varies widely, and some manufacturers offer video guides online.
Fabric choices and what they mean for durability
Acrylic fabric is the premium option. It resists UV rays, does not fade as quickly as vinyl, and typically lasts 10 to 15 years with normal use. It is also more expensive—a 20-foot acrylic kit often costs 30 to 50 percent more than vinyl. Acrylic can be cleaned with mild soap and water and does not require special sealants. Sunbrella is the most recognized acrylic brand and is used by many OEM (original equipment manufacturer) awnings.
Vinyl is cheaper upfront but has a shorter lifespan, usually 5 to 10 years. It fades faster in direct sun and can crack or become brittle in extreme heat or cold. Vinyl is easier to clean than acrylic and resists mildew well. It is a good choice if you plan to replace the awning in five to seven years or use your RV seasonally rather than year-round.
Polyester blends are a middle ground. They cost less than acrylic but more than vinyl, and they offer better UV resistance than vinyl alone. They are less common in complete kits but appear in budget-tier offerings from some manufacturers. Durability typically falls between vinyl and acrylic—around 7 to 12 years.
All fabrics benefit from regular cleaning and occasional treatment with UV protectant spray. Leaving an awning extended in heavy rain or snow can damage the fabric and the mechanism, so retract it during storms or when you are away from your RV for extended periods.
How to confirm the kit fits your RV
The first step is identifying your RV's awning rail type. Open your RV manual or contact the manufacturer with your model number. The three most common systems are Carefree (uses a specific rail profile), Dometic (another proprietary system), and universal rails that fit multiple brands. Some RVs have rails from Lippert, Solera, or other suppliers. Ordering a kit for the wrong rail type means it will not fit, and returns can be slow.
Measure the length of your existing awning rail or the space where you want to mount one. A 20-foot kit is designed for rails approximately 20 feet long, but some manufacturers build in a small overlap or allow for slight trimming. Check the product listing or manual for the exact rail length the kit accommodates.
Verify the mounting height and wall thickness. Most RVs have aluminum or fiberglass walls between 1 and 2 inches thick. The brackets must be long enough to penetrate the wall and reach the frame or a solid backing. If your RV has unusual wall construction—thick insulation or composite materials—contact the kit manufacturer before ordering to confirm the brackets will work.
Check whether the kit includes a motor or only a hand crank. If your current awning is motorized and you want to keep it that way, a hand-crank-only kit will not meet your needs. Motorized kits are more expensive, and some require a separate motor unit that is sold as an add-on.
Installation: what to expect and what can go wrong
Installation typically takes two to four hours with a helper. You will need a drill, a level, a tape measure, and a wrench or socket set. The process involves marking mounting holes on your RV's exterior, drilling through the wall, inserting the brackets, and bolting them in place. You then slide the roller tube into the rail and find the support arms.
The biggest risk is drilling into plumbing, electrical wiring, or structural components inside your RV. Before drilling, locate water lines, power cables, and frame members by consulting your RV manual or using a stud finder. Drilling in the wrong spot can cause thousands of dollars in damage and void your warranty.
Sealing is critical. Every hole you drill is a potential entry point for water and pests. Most kits include sealant or weatherstripping; explore it generously around all fasteners and along the rail where it meets your RV. Poor sealing is the most common cause of water damage and mold in RVs with new awnings.
If your RV is still under warranty, check the terms before you drill. Some manufacturers void the warranty if you install aftermarket awnings or modify the exterior. Others allow it if you follow their guidelines. A phone call to your RV maker's warranty department takes 10 minutes and can save you from a costly dispute later.
Comparing kit brands and price ranges
Major manufacturers include Carefree (the largest OEM supplier), Dometic, Lippert, and Solera. Aftermarket kits from these brands are sold through RV dealers, online retailers, and specialty suppliers. Prices for a 20-foot complete kit range widely: vinyl hand-crank kits start around $400 to $600, acrylic hand-crank kits run $700 to $1,200, and motorized kits (with motor included) can exceed $2,000.
Cheaper kits from lesser-known brands may lack quality control or use thinner fabric and weaker hardware. They are not always a bad choice—some work fine for seasonal use—but they carry higher risk of premature failure. Reading reviews from RV owners who have installed the same kit on the same RV model is more useful than price alone.
Warranty terms vary. Most kits include a one- to three-year warranty on the fabric and mechanism, but this often does not cover installation damage, UV fading, or wear from weather exposure. Some manufacturers offer extended warranties for an additional fee. Check what is covered before you buy.
When to repair instead of replace
If your awning fabric is torn or the roller mechanism is stuck, replacement is not always necessary. Small tears can be patched with fabric repair tape or a sewing kit designed for awning material. A stuck roller often just needs cleaning and lubrication—dirt and dried sealant can jam the mechanism without causing permanent damage.
If the fabric is faded but functional, you can extend its life with UV protectant spray and keep the awning retracted when not in use. If the roller tube is bent or the arms are cracked, those parts can sometimes be ordered separately and swapped out without replacing the entire kit. Contact the manufacturer or a local RV service center to explore repair options before committing to a full replacement.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a motorized awning or is a hand crank okay?
Hand cranks work fine and cost less, but motorized awnings are more convenient if you use your RV frequently or have mobility issues. Motors add $500 to $1,500 to the kit cost. Some complete kits include the motor; others require you to buy it separately and have it installed by a technician.
Can I install a 20-foot awning on a smaller RV?
Not if your rail is shorter than 20 feet. The kit is sized for the rail length, and you cannot safely trim or extend it yourself. Measure your rail first. If it is shorter, look for a 16-foot or 18-foot kit instead.
What happens if water leaks around the new awning?
Water damage inside your RV can lead to mold, rot, and structural problems. Reapply sealant around all fasteners and the rail junction when ready. If water is already inside, dry the area thoroughly and monitor for mold. Severe leaks may require professional repair to find and seal the source.
Can I install the awning myself or do I need a professional?
Many RV owners install awnings themselves with basic tools and a helper. If you are uncomfortable drilling into your RV or working at height, hire a professional. RV service centers typically charge $300 to $800 for installation labor, depending on complexity and location.
How often do I need to maintain the awning?
Clean the fabric twice a year with mild soap and water. Retract it during storms and when you are away. Lubricate the roller tube and arms annually with silicone spray. Check fasteners and sealant every season and reapply sealant if it cracks or peels. Regular maintenance extends the awning's life by several years.