What you need before you start
Changing a tire requires five things: a spare tire (full-size or temporary), a jack, a lug wrench, a wheel wedge or block, and a flat surface. Most vehicles come with these in the trunk or under the rear seat. Before you need to change a tire, open your trunk and locate them—do not wait until you are on the side of a highway in the dark to discover one is missing.
Check that your spare tire has air in it. A flat spare is useless. You can check the pressure with a tire gauge at any gas station. If the spare is low, fill it before you need it. Also locate your vehicle's lug wrench and jack; some cars have them in a kit, others store them separately. Knowing where they are saves time and frustration.
Read your vehicle's owner manual before a blowout happens. Different cars have different jack points—the specific spots on the frame where the jack goes. Using the wrong spot can damage your car or cause the jack to slip. The manual shows you exactly where to place it.
Key Takeaways
- Locate your spare tire, jack, lug wrench, and wheel wedge in your vehicle before you need them, and check that the spare has air pressure.
- Find a flat, stable surface away from traffic, turn on hazard lights, and engage the parking brake before lifting the car.
- Loosen the lug nuts while the tire is still on the ground, then use the jack to lift the vehicle at the correct frame point shown in your owner manual.
- Remove the old tire, mount the spare, hand-tighten the lug nuts, lower the vehicle, and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern with the wrench.
- Drive to a tire shop within a few days to have the spare inspected and the flat tire repaired or replaced.
Finding a safe place to stop
If you hear a blowout or feel the car pulling to one side, do not slam the brakes. Ease off the gas, grip the steering wheel firmly, and steer toward the shoulder. Slow down gradually until you can safely pull over. You want to be as far from traffic as possible.
Stop on a flat, level surface—not on a slope or soft ground. If you are on a highway, keep going until you reach an exit or a wide shoulder. A parking lot or flat road is far better than a hill. Once stopped, turn on your hazard lights so other drivers see you, and engage the parking brake.
If you are on a busy road and do not feel safe, stay in the car with the doors locked and call roadside information. Changing a tire is not worth being hit by traffic. Many insurance policies and auto club memberships include free towing.
Loosening the lug nuts before you lift
This step is critical and often skipped—loosen the lug nuts while the tire is still on the ground and bearing the car's weight. If you wait until after you jack up the car, the wheel will spin freely and you will not be able to turn the wrench.
Place the lug wrench on one nut and turn it counterclockwise. You do not need to remove the nuts completely yet, just break them loose so they turn. Go around the wheel and loosen each nut a quarter or half turn. Once all are loose, you can then proceed to jack up the car.
If a nut is stuck, do not force it and risk stripping it. Try tapping the wrench handle gently with a rock or tire iron to help it turn. If it still will not budge, this is when to call for help rather than damage the lug nut.
Jacking up the vehicle safely
Consult your owner manual to find the exact jack point for your vehicle. This is usually a reinforced spot on the frame near each wheel, often marked by a small notch or raised area. Place the jack directly under this point—not under the door, bumper, or any other part of the body.
Before you lift, place a wheel wedge or heavy block behind one of the wheels that will stay on the ground. This prevents the car from rolling. If you do not have a wedge, a large rock or piece of wood works. Then slowly raise the jack until the flat tire is about six inches off the ground—high enough to remove the tire and mount the spare, but not so high that the car is unstable.
Never crawl under a car supported only by a jack. Jacks can fail. If you need to reach something under the vehicle, lower it first. Keep your hands and feet clear of the tire and wheel area while the car is raised.
Removing the old tire and mounting the spare
Now that the car is raised and the lug nuts are loose, finish unscrewing them by hand and set them aside in a safe place where you will not lose them—a cup or small bag works well. Remove all the nuts completely and set them where you can reach them easily.
Grip the tire firmly and pull it straight toward you. It may take some force if it has been on the car for years. Once it is off, set it flat on the ground nearby. Do not let it roll away or stand it on its edge.
Lift the spare tire and align the holes with the wheel bolts on the hub. Push it straight onto the bolts until it is flush against the hub. Hand-tighten the lug nuts in the order they sit around the wheel—this is called a star or cross pattern, which ensures even pressure. Tighten them as much as you can by hand, but do not use the wrench yet.
Lowering the car and final tightening
Once the spare is mounted and the lug nuts are hand-tight, slowly lower the jack until the tire touches the ground and bears the car's full weight. Then remove the jack completely and set it aside.
Now use the lug wrench to fully tighten the lug nuts. Start at the top nut and work in a star pattern—top, bottom-left, bottom-right, top-left, top-right, or however the pattern goes around your wheel. This ensures the wheel sits evenly. Tighten each nut firmly, but do not over-tighten; you want them snug, not stripped.
Put the flat tire, jack, and lug wrench back in your vehicle. Turn off the hazard lights and check that the spare is holding air by looking at it visually—it should not look flat or bulging.
Driving to a tire shop and what to expect
A temporary or full-size spare tire is not a permanent solution. Drive to a tire shop within a few days to have the flat tire inspected and repaired or replaced. Most flats from nails or small punctures can be patched for a low cost. If the damage is too severe or the tire is old, you will need a replacement.
The shop will also check the pressure on your spare and make sure it is road-safe for future use. They can also rotate your tires while you are there, which extends tire life. Ask them to inspect all four tires for wear and damage.
If you drove on the flat tire for a long distance before stopping, the sidewall may be damaged and the tire cannot be repaired—it must be replaced. This is why stopping as soon as you notice a problem is important.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if I do not have a spare tire?
Some newer cars come with a tire repair kit or inflator instead of a spare. Follow the kit's instructions to seal the puncture temporarily, then drive slowly to a tire shop. If you have neither a spare nor a kit, call roadside information or a towing service. Do not attempt to drive on a flat tire for more than a few blocks.
Can I change a tire in the rain or on a wet road?
Yes, but be extra careful. Wet surfaces are slippery, so place your wheel wedge or block more carefully to prevent rolling. Work slowly and keep your footing find. If you are on a busy highway in heavy rain, consider calling for help instead of working in dangerous conditions.
What if the lug nuts are too tight to loosen by hand?
Use the full length of the lug wrench for more leverage. If that does not work, tap the wrench handle gently with a rock to help it turn. Never force it hard enough to risk stripping the nut. If it will not budge, call roadside information rather than damage the wheel.
How fast can I drive on a temporary spare tire?
Most temporary spares are rated for 50 miles per hour maximum and should not be driven more than 70 miles. Check the sidewall of your spare for its speed and distance limits. Drive cautiously and head straight to a tire shop to have your flat repaired or replaced.
Do I need to tighten the lug nuts again after driving?
Yes. After driving a few miles on a newly mounted tire, stop and re-tighten the lug nuts with the wrench. The tire may have settled slightly, and the nuts can loosen. Check them again after another 20 or 30 miles of driving.