What you need to know before starting

A front wheel bearing on a 2013 Subaru Crosstrek is a sealed unit that sits inside the wheel hub. When it fails, you'll usually hear a grinding or humming noise that gets louder as you turn the steering wheel toward that side. Replacing it means removing the wheel, brake components, and the hub assembly itself — then pressing out the old bearing and pressing in a new one.

This job requires a hydraulic press, which most home mechanics don't own. A shop with a press can do this in one to two hours. If you're doing it yourself, you'll need to rent or borrow a press, and you should have some mechanical experience with suspension work. The alternative is taking it to a mechanic, which typically costs $300 to $600 in labor plus the bearing itself.

Key Takeaways

  • The front wheel bearing is a sealed unit pressed into the hub assembly, not a serviceable part you can clean or repack.
  • You'll need a hydraulic press to remove the old bearing and install the new one — this is not a tool most home garages have.
  • The job requires removing the wheel, caliper, rotor, and hub assembly, then disconnecting the axle shaft from the hub.
  • A replacement bearing for a 2013 Crosstrek costs $40 to $100 depending on the brand, and the hub assembly itself runs $80 to $150 if you need to replace the whole unit.
  • If the bearing is making noise but the hub is not damaged, pressing in a new bearing alone takes about 30 minutes once the hub is on the press.

Tools and parts you'll need

Start with a hydraulic press — this is the non-negotiable tool. You can rent one from an equipment rental shop for $30 to $50 per day. You'll also need a socket set, torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and wheel chocks to keep the car from rolling. A breaker bar helps loosen the axle nut, which is tight.

For the bearing itself, order a front wheel bearing for a 2013 Subaru Crosstrek — specify left or right side. Common brands are Timken, SKF, and FAG. You may also need a hub assembly if the hub is damaged or if you want to avoid pressing altogether; some shops sell pre-assembled hubs with the bearing already installed, which costs more upfront but saves the press work.

Have a seal puller or small pry tool on hand to remove the old seal from the hub. You'll also want bearing grease and a new axle nut — the factory nut is one-time use and should not be reused.

Removing the hub assembly

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel while the car is on the ground, then raise the front end on jack stands. Remove the wheel. Unbolt the brake caliper from the steering knuckle — there are usually two bolts — and hang it out of the way with a wire or bungee cord so it doesn't dangle on the brake hose.

Remove the brake rotor by unbolting it or straightforward sliding it off the hub. Then locate the axle nut at the center of the hub — it's a large nut holding the axle shaft to the hub. Use a breaker bar and socket to loosen it; it's very tight. Once loose, you can remove it by hand.

Unbolt the steering knuckle from the lower control arm and strut — there are usually three bolts. Once those are out, the hub assembly will separate from the axle shaft. You may need to tap the axle shaft with a rubber mallet to break it free from the hub. Pull the hub and knuckle assembly away from the car.

Pressing out the old bearing and installing the new one

Take the hub assembly to the press. The bearing sits inside the hub, so you'll use the press to push it out from one side. Support the hub properly — usually on a backing plate or in a press fixture — so the force goes straight through the bearing and not through the hub itself. Press until the bearing slides out completely.

Once the old bearing is out, clean the hub bore with a cloth. Check the hub surface for cracks or scoring; if it's damaged, you'll need a new hub assembly instead. If the hub is good, press the new bearing in from the same side, making sure it goes in straight and seats fully. The bearing should sit flush with the hub face.

Install a new seal on the back of the hub if the old one came out with the bearing. Some bearings come with a seal already attached; check your parts before you start. Once the bearing is in and the seal is set, the hub is ready to go back on the car.

Reinstalling the hub and reassembling

Slide the hub assembly back onto the axle shaft. The shaft should slide through the center of the bearing. Bolt the steering knuckle back to the lower control arm and strut using the same bolts you removed. Tighten them to the torque spec for your Crosstrek — check the service manual or a repair guide for the exact value, usually around 80 to 100 foot-pounds.

Install the new axle nut and tighten it by hand first, then use a torque wrench to tighten it to spec — typically 145 to 180 foot-pounds for a Crosstrek. This nut is critical; if it's too loose, the bearing will fail again quickly. If it's too tight, you can damage the bearing.

Reinstall the brake rotor and caliper, then put the wheel back on. Lower the car and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to make sure the wheel sits evenly. Take the car for a test drive — the noise should be gone, and the wheel should spin freely with no grinding sound.

When to replace the whole hub assembly instead

If the hub is cracked, severely scored, or if you don't have access to a press, buying a pre-assembled hub with the bearing already installed is often faster and cheaper than pressing. These units cost $80 to $200 depending on the brand and whether it's OEM or aftermarket. You straightforward unbolt the old hub and bolt the new one on — no press required.

The trade-off is that you're paying for the whole assembly even if only the bearing is bad. But if you factor in the cost of renting a press, the time to do the work, and the risk of damaging the hub during pressing, a new hub assembly can make sense. Compare the total cost before you decide.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the front wheel bearing is actually bad?

A failing bearing makes a grinding, humming, or whining noise that gets louder when you turn the wheel toward that side. You might also feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel or brake pedal. If you hear the noise only when turning, the bearing is almost certainly the problem. A mechanic can confirm by lifting the wheel and spinning it by hand to listen for grinding.

Can I drive on a bad wheel bearing?

You can drive short distances, but a failing bearing will eventually seize, which can lock up the wheel and cause loss of control. The longer you wait, the more damage spreads to the hub and possibly the axle. It's not safe to ignore — get it fixed within a week or two of hearing the noise.

What's the difference between a sealed bearing and a serviceable one?

The 2013 Crosstrek has a sealed bearing unit that cannot be taken apart, cleaned, or regreased. Once it fails, you must replace the entire bearing. Older cars sometimes had serviceable bearings you could pack with grease, but that's not an option here.

Do I need to replace both front bearings at the same time?

Not necessarily. Replace only the one that's failing. However, if both are making noise or if the car has high mileage, replacing both at once saves you from doing the job again in a few months. The labor cost is similar for one or two, so the main extra cost is the second bearing itself.

What happens if I reuse the old axle nut?

Factory axle nuts are designed for one-time use. Reusing one can loosen over time, which lets the hub move on the axle shaft and damages the new bearing. Always install a new axle nut and torque it to spec.