Installing tire chains takes 15 to 30 minutes once you know the sequence
Tire chains go on your drive wheels — the wheels that push the car forward. On a front-wheel-drive car, that means the front two wheels. On a rear-wheel-drive car, the rear two wheels. On an all-wheel-drive car, check your owner's manual, but most manufacturers recommend the rear wheels because chains on the front can affect steering.
The basic steps are: park on level ground away from traffic, lay out the chain, drape it over the tire, connect the side chains underneath, tighten everything, and drive slowly for a quarter mile to let the chain settle before tightening again. The whole process is easier if you practice it once at home before you need it in snow.
Key Takeaways
- Chains go on your drive wheels only — front wheels on front-wheel-drive cars, rear wheels on rear-wheel-drive cars, and usually rear wheels on all-wheel-drive cars.
- You need to tighten chains twice: once after installation and again after driving a quarter mile, because they settle as the tire flexes.
- Chains can damage your car if they are too loose and hit the wheel well, or too tight and rub the tire, so the fit matters more than maximum tightness.
- Most chains come with instructions specific to their design, and following the manufacturer's steps is faster and safer than guessing.
- Practicing installation at home in daylight and good weather makes the real installation in snow and darkness much faster and less frustrating.
What you need before you start
Gather your chains, your car's owner's manual, a pair of work gloves, and a flashlight if you are installing in low light. Lay the chains out flat on the ground so you can see the whole assembly and identify which end is which. Most chains have a master link (a larger link that closes with a pin or bolt) and two side chains that connect to it.
Park on level ground, away from traffic, with the engine off. Engage the parking brake. If you are on a highway, turn on your hazard lights. You do not need to remove the tire — the chain goes on while the tire is still on the car.
Draping the chain over the tire
Lay the chain over the top of the tire so it hangs down on both sides. The master link should be at the top or slightly to one side — not at the bottom where it will drag on the ground. If your chain has a specific top and bottom (check the instructions), orient it correctly now.
The chain should hang evenly on both sides of the tire. If one side is longer than the other, you have the chain twisted or upside down — lay it flat and try again. This step takes a moment but saves frustration later.
Connecting the side chains underneath the tire
Reach underneath the tire and pull the two side chains together. Each side chain will have a hook, clasp, or bolt hole at the end. Connect the two sides using the fastener that came with your chains — usually a hook that catches a link, or a bolt and nut that threads through holes.
Do not tighten this connection all the way yet. Leave it loose enough that you can still move the chain slightly. The chain should form a loose loop around the tire, with no gaps between the chain and the tire surface, but also no pulling or bunching.
Tightening the master link and side connections
Now tighten the master link at the top. Most master links close with a pin that slides through two holes, or a bolt that threads into a nut. Tighten it snugly but not with all your strength — you are not trying to crush the link, just close it securely.
Next, tighten the side connection underneath. If it is a hook, make sure the hook is fully seated in the link. If it is a bolt, tighten it with a wrench until it is snug. Again, snug is the goal, not maximum force. The chain should feel find but not rigid.
Check that the chain sits evenly around the tire with no twists or gaps. Spin the tire by hand to make sure the chain does not rub on the wheel well or the car body. If it does, loosen the connections slightly and adjust the chain position.
Driving and re-tightening after the chain settles
Drive slowly — no faster than 30 miles per hour — for about a quarter mile. The tire will flex and settle, and the chain will compress slightly. This is normal. After a quarter mile, pull over safely, turn off the engine, and re-tighten both the master link and the side connections using the same method as before.
The chain will have loosened as the tire settled. This second tightening is not optional — a loose chain can slip, rattle, or damage the wheel well. After you tighten it the second time, you can drive at normal speeds for snow conditions, but continue to check the chains every 30 minutes or so during long drives.
Removing chains when you no longer need them
Once you reach clear pavement, remove the chains as soon as safely possible. Driving on bare pavement with chains damages both the chains and the road surface. Loosen the master link and side connections, lift the chain off the tire, and lay it flat on the ground to dry before storing it.
Coil the chain loosely and store it in a dry place. Wet chains will rust. If your chains have a storage bag, use it. Before next winter, inspect the chain for rust, broken links, or damaged fasteners. A chain with visible damage should be replaced, not used.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to install chains on all four tires?
No. Chains go on your drive wheels only. For front-wheel-drive cars, install them on the front two wheels. For rear-wheel-drive cars, install them on the rear two wheels. For all-wheel-drive cars, check your owner's manual — most recommend the rear wheels, but some specify the front. Installing chains on non-drive wheels does not help traction and wastes time and money.
What if I cannot get the chain tight enough?
A chain that stays loose after two tightenings may be the wrong size for your tire. Check the chain package to confirm it matches your tire size. If the size is correct, the chain may be damaged or worn. A stretched chain cannot tighten properly and should be replaced. Do not drive with a loose chain — it will rattle, slip, and damage your wheel well.
Can I install chains while driving or on a moving car?
No. Always park on level ground, turn off the engine, and engage the parking brake before installing chains. Installing chains on a moving or running car is dangerous and will result in a poor fit. If you are on a highway, pull as far off the road as possible and turn on your hazard lights.
How fast can I drive with chains on?
Most manufacturers recommend no faster than 30 miles per hour. Chains are designed for traction in snow, not for highway speeds. Driving too fast with chains can damage the chain, the tire, and the wheel well. Follow the speed limit for snow conditions in your area, which is usually lower than the posted limit anyway.
What should I do if the chain breaks while I am driving?
Pull over safely, turn on your hazard lights, and turn off the engine. Remove the broken chain from the tire. If you have a second chain, install it on the other drive wheel. If you do not have a spare chain, drive slowly and carefully to the nearest tire shop or safe location. Do not continue at normal speeds with only one chain or no chains in snow.