A vehicle history report is a record of everything documented about a car's past — accidents, title transfers, service records, and whether it was ever declared a total loss by an insurance company.

When you are thinking about buying a used car, a history report gives you facts you cannot see by looking at the vehicle. It tells you if the odometer has been rolled back, if the car was in a flood, if it has outstanding liens (meaning someone else has a legal claim to it), and whether the title is clean or has a branded title that signals major damage or problems.

The two largest report providers are Carfax and AutoCheck. Both pull data from insurance companies, police reports, DMV records, and service shops. Neither one is perfect — a small accident that was paid for in cash will not show up, and not every repair shop reports to them — but both catch the major red flags that should stop you from buying a particular car.

Key Takeaways

  • A vehicle history report shows accidents, title problems, flood damage, odometer fraud, and whether the car was declared a total loss by insurance.
  • Carfax and AutoCheck are the two main providers; many dealerships and private sellers include a report when they list a car for sale.
  • A branded title (salvage, rebuilt, flood, or lemon) means the car had major damage and may be harder to insure or resell later.
  • Reports are not complete — small cash repairs and some accidents do not appear — so a clean report does not may provide the car has no problems.
  • You can order a report yourself for roughly $20 to $30, or ask the seller to provide one before you decide to look at the car in person.

What information appears in a vehicle history report

A history report starts with the vehicle identification number (VIN), which is a 17-character code unique to that car. The report then lists every title transfer — each time the car changed owners — and flags if the title is branded. A branded title means a state DMV has marked the car as having had major problems: salvage (totaled by insurance), rebuilt (totaled but repaired and re-registered), flood, lemon, or other damage.

The report shows reported accidents and damage claims filed with insurance companies. It includes whether the car was declared a total loss, meaning the insurance company paid out and took ownership of the vehicle. It also displays the odometer reading at each service or sale, which helps detect if someone rolled back the mileage. Some reports include service records from shops that report to the provider, though this coverage is incomplete.

Both Carfax and AutoCheck note open recalls, though you can also check recalls for free on the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) website using the VIN. The report may show whether the car was used as a rental, fleet vehicle, or taxi, which can matter if you are concerned about how hard it was driven.

The difference between Carfax and AutoCheck

Carfax and AutoCheck pull from overlapping but not identical data sources. Carfax has access to more insurance claims data and is more widely used by dealerships, so it often appears in listings first. AutoCheck is owned by Experian and sometimes catches salvage titles and auction sales that Carfax misses, because it pulls from different insurance and auction databases.

Neither service is complete. Both rely on reports being filed — a small accident paid for in cash, a repair done at an independent shop that does not report, or a title problem in one state may not show up. The best practice is to order both reports if you are serious about a car, or to ask the seller which one they used and then order the other one yourself.

A single Carfax report costs around $25 to $30 if you buy it directly. AutoCheck reports are similar in price. Many dealerships and some private sellers include a free report with the listing, so check before you pay.

What a branded title means for you

A branded title is a warning that the car experienced something serious enough that a state DMV decided to mark it permanently. The most common brand is salvage, which means an insurance company declared the car a total loss — the cost to repair it exceeded a percentage of its value (usually 70 to 80 percent, depending on the state). A rebuilt title means the car was salvaged, then repaired and passed inspection to be driven again.

A flood title means the car was submerged or exposed to flood water. Even if it runs now, flood damage can cause electrical and mechanical problems that appear months later. A lemon title (available in some states) means the manufacturer bought the car back because of repeated defects under the state's lemon law.

A branded title does not automatically mean the car is unsafe or a bad buy, but it does affect your options. Insurance companies may charge more, deny coverage, or require an inspection before they will insure it. Reselling the car later will be harder because the brand stays with the title forever. If you are considering a car with a branded title, have a trusted mechanic inspect it thoroughly before you commit.

How to read the odometer history section

The odometer section of a history report lists the mileage recorded each time the car was serviced, sold, or inspected. If the mileage goes backward — for example, 80,000 miles at one service and then 60,000 miles at the next — that is a red flag for odometer fraud. The report will usually flag this with a warning.

Large jumps forward are normal if there are gaps in the record. If a car was serviced at independent shops that do not report to Carfax or AutoCheck, those records will not appear, so you might see 50,000 miles, then a gap of two years, then 75,000 miles. That is not fraud — it just means some service records are missing from the report.

If you see a suspicious pattern, ask the seller for service records or receipts to fill in the gaps. A seller who has kept records and can show you the actual maintenance history is a better sign than one who cannot explain the jumps.

What a history report does not tell you

A clean history report does not mean the car is in good condition. It means no major accidents, title problems, or insurance claims were reported to the databases the report pulls from. A car can have a clean report and still have:

  • Small accidents paid for in cash and never reported to insurance
  • Repairs done at independent shops that do not report to Carfax or AutoCheck
  • Mechanical problems that developed after the last service record
  • Wear and tear from normal use that does not show up in any database
  • Problems with the transmission, engine, or suspension that have not yet failed

This is why a history report is a starting point, not a final answer. A clean report tells you the car has no documented major problems. It does not tell you the car is reliable or will not need expensive repairs soon. You still need to have a mechanic inspect the car in person, test drive it, and check for signs of wear.

How to order and use a vehicle history report

You can order a Carfax report directly from Carfax.com or AutoCheck from AutoCheck.com. You will need the car's VIN, which you can find on the driver's side of the windshield, on the door jamb, or in the vehicle registration. The report is usually delivered when ready as a PDF.

Many dealerships and online car marketplaces (like Carvana, Vroom, and some Craigslist sellers) include a free report with the listing. If the seller has already provided one, you can read it before deciding whether to look at the car. If you want a second opinion, you can order the other provider's report yourself.

When you read the report, look first at the title section: is it clean or branded? Then check the accident and damage history. Then scan the odometer readings for backward movement or suspicious gaps. If you see red flags, you can decide not to pursue the car. If the report is clean and the car interests you, the next step is to have a mechanic inspect it and take it for a test drive.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I get a vehicle history report for free?

Some dealerships and online sellers include a free report with the listing. You can also check for open recalls for free on the NHTSA website using the VIN. If you want a full Carfax or AutoCheck report and the seller has not provided one, you will need to pay roughly $20 to $30 per report.

What does it mean if the report says the car was a fleet vehicle?

Fleet vehicles are owned by companies and driven by multiple drivers for business purposes. They are often well-maintained because companies keep service records, but they may have higher mileage and harder use than a personal car. This is not a deal-breaker, but it is worth knowing when you evaluate the car's condition and price.

If the report is clean, do I still need a mechanic to inspect the car?

Yes. A clean report means no major accidents or title problems were reported, but it does not tell you about mechanical wear, small repairs, or problems that developed after the last service record. A mechanic can find issues the report cannot, so an inspection is always worth the cost before you buy.

What should I do if I find an error in the vehicle history report?

Contact the report provider (Carfax or AutoCheck) directly with proof of the error — a police report, insurance documents, or service records. They have a process to investigate and correct mistakes. This can take several weeks, so report errors as soon as you find them if the car is one you want to buy.

Does a vehicle history report show if a car was in an accident that was not reported to insurance?

No. If someone paid for repairs out of pocket and never filed an insurance claim, the accident will not appear on the report. This is why a mechanic's inspection is important — they can often spot signs of past damage even if it does not appear in the history.