The supplies and tools you'll need before you start
An oil change requires four things: new oil in the right weight for your car, a new oil filter, a way to drain the old oil, and a way to get under the car safely. You do not need special training or expensive equipment — most of what you need costs under $50 total, and you probably have some of it already.
The specific oil weight and filter model are not interchangeable. Your owner's manual or a sticker under your hood lists the oil viscosity your engine needs — something like 5W-30 or 10W-40. The numbers matter because oil that is too thick or too thin can damage your engine. Your car's make, model, and year determine which filter fits. A parts store can look both up for you in seconds if you give them your vehicle information.
Key Takeaways
- You need the correct oil weight (found in your owner's manual), a new filter that matches your car's model, a drain pan, and a way to safely lift the car — a jack with jack stands or ramps, not just a jack alone.
- An oil filter wrench makes removal easier but is not required if you have a rag and grip strength; a drain pan is required because spilling oil on your driveway creates an environmental hazard and may violate local law.
- The total cost of supplies is usually $30 to $60, depending on oil brand and filter type; synthetic oil costs more than conventional but lasts longer between changes.
- You will need a way to dispose of the old oil — most auto parts stores and service stations take it free, and some accept it at the curb during bulk trash pickup.
Oil: conventional, synthetic, or a blend
Conventional mineral oil is the cheapest option and works fine for most cars. A quart typically costs $4 to $8. You will need between four and six quarts depending on your engine size; your manual tells you the exact amount. Conventional oil breaks down faster, so you change it every 3,000 to 5,000 miles.
Synthetic oil costs $8 to $15 per quart but lasts much longer — often 7,500 to 10,000 miles or more. If you drive infrequently or keep your car a long time, synthetic saves money overall because you change it less often. Some newer cars require synthetic; your manual will say so. A blend (part synthetic, part conventional) sits in the middle on both cost and lifespan.
Do not mix types. If your car has been running on conventional, you can switch to synthetic at your next change, but do not add synthetic to conventional oil that is already in the engine. Buy enough oil for a full drain and refill — if your manual says 5 quarts, buy 5 or 6 quarts so you have a little extra.
The filter and how to find the right one
The oil filter screws onto your engine and traps dirt and debris. It needs to be replaced every time you change the oil. A new filter costs $5 to $15 depending on brand and your car's model. Fram, Mobil 1, and Bosch make filters that fit most vehicles, but the exact part number matters.
Go to an auto parts store with your vehicle's year, make, and model, and ask them to look up the filter. They will give you the right one. You can also look it up yourself on the store's website or on the manufacturer's site if you know your car's details. Write down the part number so you do not grab the wrong one by mistake.
Tools to drain and refill safely
A drain pan is not optional — it catches the old oil so it does not spill on your driveway or into the ground. A basic plastic pan costs $5 to $10 and lasts for years. Metal pans are sturdier but cost more. The pan needs to hold at least as much as your engine's oil capacity — if your car holds 5 quarts, get a pan that holds at least 5 quarts.
You need a way to safely lift the car. A floor jack alone is dangerous — it can slip and the car can fall on you. Use a floor jack to lift the car, then place jack stands under the frame and lower the car onto the stands. Never work under a car supported only by a jack. Ramps are a safer alternative if you have space — drive the front wheels up the ramps and the car stays stable without needing stands.
An oil filter wrench makes removing the old filter easier, especially if it is stuck tight. A basic one costs $5 to $15. If you do not have one, you can use a rag to grip the filter and turn it by hand — it takes more strength but works. Some people use a screwdriver poked through the filter to turn it, though this risks puncturing the filter and spilling oil.
Optional tools that make the job cleaner
An oil catch funnel fits into the oil filler hole on top of the engine and prevents spills when you pour new oil in. They cost $3 to $8 and are especially useful if you are working in a tight space or on a sloped driveway. A socket wrench set may be needed to remove the drain plug — most drain plugs are 13mm, 14mm, or 15mm, but your manual tells you which. If you already have a basic wrench set, you probably have the right size.
Rags or old towels soak up spills and wipe your hands. Paper towels work but use a lot of them. Newspaper under the work area catches drips. None of these cost money if you use what you have at home.
Where to take the old oil
Used oil cannot go in the trash or down the drain — it is toxic and illegal to dispose of that way in most places. Most auto parts stores (Autozone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA) take used oil free, even if you did not buy supplies from them. Many service stations and quick-lube shops also accept it. Some cities include used oil in bulk trash pickup — call your local waste management to ask.
Store the old oil in a clean container with a tight lid until you take it in. Do not mix it with other liquids. If you have a large amount (more than a few quarts), some recycling centers will take it, though they may charge a small fee.
Putting together your shopping list
Before you go to the store or order online, write down your car's year, make, model, and current mileage. Open your owner's manual and find the oil weight and capacity. Take a photo of the page so you have it with you. Then get the oil, filter, drain pan, and any tools you do not already own. If you are unsure about the filter, ask the parts store employee — they look this up dozens of times a day and can confirm you have the right one in seconds.
Check that you have a safe way to lift the car before you start. If you do not own a jack and stands or ramps, borrow them from a friend or rent them from a tool rental shop for $10 to $20 for a day. This is not a place to skip a step — working under an unsupported car is the most common way people get hurt doing this job.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use any oil filter or does it have to match my car exactly?
It has to match your car's model. The filter screws onto a specific fitting on your engine, and the wrong size will not fit or will leak. The parts store can look up the correct filter in 30 seconds if you give them your vehicle information. Do not guess or buy a filter that looks similar.
What if I spill oil on my driveway?
Clean it up right away with cat litter, sand, or an absorbent material — do not let it soak into the ground. Sweep up the material and put it in a bag for trash. For large spills, contact your local environmental agency or hazardous waste program. Many cities have free cleanup kits for small spills.
Do I have to change the oil filter every time I change the oil?
Yes. The filter traps dirt and debris, and a clogged filter reduces oil flow to your engine. Changing the filter takes two minutes and costs $5 to $15. Skipping it defeats the purpose of the oil change.
How do I know if I bought the right oil weight?
Check your owner's manual or the sticker under your hood — it lists the oil viscosity your engine needs. The manual also tells you how many quarts to buy. If you are unsure, take a photo of the manual page to the parts store and show it to the employee before you check out.
Can I do an oil change in an apartment or on the street?
It depends on your local laws and lease. Many apartments prohibit it because of spill risk and the need to lift the car. Some cities do not allow it on public streets. Check your lease and local ordinances before you start. If you cannot do it at home, a quick-lube shop or independent mechanic can do it for $30 to $75.