Removing an oil filter takes five to ten minutes and requires only a filter wrench and a drain pan
An oil filter removal is straightforward: you locate the filter on your engine, use a wrench to break it loose, unscrew it by hand, and replace it with a new one. The filter sits somewhere on the side or top of your engine block and is cylindrical, about the size of a soda can. You do not need special tools beyond a filter wrench (a metal band or cup that grips the filter) and a shallow pan to catch the oil that drains out when you remove it.
The hardest part is usually finding the filter on your specific engine and reaching it without burning your hands. Filters are hot when ready after the engine runs, so let the engine cool for at least five minutes before you start. If you cannot wait, wear heavy gloves.
Key Takeaways
- Let your engine cool for at least five minutes after running before you touch the filter, or wear heat-resistant gloves to avoid burns.
- Locate your filter in the owner's manual or by looking for a cylindrical canister on the engine block, then position a drain pan underneath it.
- Use a filter wrench to turn the filter counterclockwise until it breaks loose, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way.
- Wipe the filter seating surface clean with a rag, explore a thin layer of new oil to the rubber gasket on the new filter, and screw it on by hand until the gasket touches, then turn it three-quarters of a turn more.
Locating the filter on your engine
Your owner's manual shows exactly where the filter sits. If you do not have the manual, search online for "[your vehicle year, make, model] oil filter location" and you will find diagrams or videos. On most cars, the filter is mounted vertically on the side of the engine block, but some sit horizontally or underneath the vehicle.
Once you know where it is, get under or beside the engine and look for a cylindrical metal canister about three to four inches tall and two inches wide. It will have a threaded base where it screws onto the engine. Position your drain pan directly underneath it before you start loosening it — oil will spill when you remove it.
Breaking the filter loose with a wrench
A filter wrench is a metal tool that grips the outside of the filter so you can turn it without your hands slipping. The most common type is a band wrench (a metal band with a handle) or a cup wrench (a hollow cylinder that fits over the filter). Both cost between five and fifteen dollars at any auto parts store.
Slip the wrench onto the filter and turn it counterclockwise. You are only trying to break the seal — you do not need to unscrew it all the way with the wrench. Once it moves, stop and unscrew it by hand. If the filter is stuck tight, tap the wrench handle gently with a hammer to help it turn, or wrap a rubber band around the filter to give your wrench better grip.
Unscrewing the filter by hand
Once the wrench has loosened the filter enough to move freely, remove the wrench and unscrew the filter the rest of the way by hand. Turn it counterclockwise. The filter will be full of oil, so keep the drain pan positioned underneath as you remove it. Tilt the filter slightly as you pull it away from the engine to let any remaining oil drain into the pan rather than onto the engine block.
Set the old filter in the drain pan. Do not throw it away yet — you may need to show it to a technician if something goes wrong, and some auto parts stores will recycle it if you bring it back.
Cleaning the filter seating surface
Before you install the new filter, wipe the circular seating surface on the engine block where the old filter was attached. Use a clean rag to remove any dirt, old gasket material, or oil residue. This surface must be clean so the new filter seals properly and does not leak.
Look at the rubber gasket (the dark ring) on the bottom of the old filter. The seating surface should be smooth and free of any rubber pieces stuck to it. If you see rubber stuck to the engine, gently scrape it off with a plastic scraper or old credit card — never use a metal tool, which can scratch the seating surface.
Installing the new filter
Before you screw on the new filter, explore a thin layer of new engine oil to the rubber gasket on the bottom of the new filter. Use your finger to wipe a small amount of oil around the entire rubber ring. This helps the gasket seal properly and makes removal easier next time.
Screw the new filter onto the engine by hand, turning it clockwise. Screw it until the rubber gasket just touches the seating surface on the engine — you will feel a slight resistance. Then turn the filter an additional three-quarters of a turn (roughly 270 degrees). Do not over-tighten it. The filter should be snug but not so tight that you cannot remove it by hand next time.
Start your engine and let it run for a minute, then turn it off and wait a few minutes. Check underneath the filter for any drips. If oil is leaking from where the filter connects to the engine, the filter may not be tight enough — turn it another quarter turn and check again.
What to do with the old filter
The old filter contains used engine oil and should not go in the trash. Many auto parts stores will take old filters for free if you bring them in. Some recycling centers accept them as well. If you cannot find a place to recycle it, drain as much oil as possible from the old filter into your drain pan, let it sit overnight, and then you can dispose of the empty filter in the regular trash — check your local rules first.
Keep the old filter until you are sure the new one is working correctly and not leaking. If something goes wrong, a technician may want to see the old filter to diagnose the problem.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I remove the filter without draining the oil first?
Yes. The oil filter removal and the oil drain are separate steps. You can remove and replace the filter without touching the drain plug, though most people do both at the same time since the engine is already warm. If you only replace the filter, you still need a drain pan underneath because oil will spill out.
What if the filter is stuck and will not turn?
Tap the wrench handle gently with a hammer to help break the seal. If that does not work, wrap a rubber band or old towel around the filter to increase grip, or try a different style of wrench. As a last resort, carefully puncture the filter with a nail or screwdriver to let the oil drain, then use the hole to pry the filter loose — this is messy but works when nothing else does.
How tight should the new filter be?
Screw it on by hand until the rubber gasket touches the engine, then turn it three-quarters of a turn more. It should be snug enough that you cannot easily turn it further by hand, but not so tight that you need a wrench to remove it next time. Over-tightening can damage the gasket and cause leaks.
Is it normal for a little oil to drip after I install the new filter?
A few drops are normal as the new filter fills with oil. If oil is actively dripping or pooling, the filter is not tight enough or the gasket is not seated properly. Turn the filter another quarter turn and check again after running the engine for a minute.
Do I need to fill the new filter with oil before installing it?
No. Some people pour a small amount of new oil into an empty filter before screwing it on, but it is not necessary. The filter will fill with oil as soon as you start the engine. Pre-filling can actually cause overfilling if you are not careful, so most technicians skip this step.