What ramps do and why they matter for oil changes
A car ramp is a pair of angled platforms that you drive your front wheels onto to lift the front of your car off the ground. When you're changing your oil, ramps tilt your engine slightly downward toward the drain plug, which makes the old oil drain faster and more completely. They also give you enough clearance to slide underneath and reach the drain plug and filter without lying flat on the ground.
Ramps are one of two main ways to lift a car for an oil change. The other is a jack and jack stands, which lifts the car higher but requires more setup and safety steps. Ramps are simpler to use, cheaper to buy, and safer for beginners because they're more stable — your car sits on them rather than being held up by a single point of pressure.
Key Takeaways
- Ramps lift only the front of your car, so they work best for front-engine vehicles and don't require you to lift the entire car.
- Plastic ramps cost $30 to $60, aluminum ramps cost $60 to $150, and both are safer for beginners than jacks and stands.
- You need at least 6 inches of ground clearance under your car to slide ramps underneath, and your driveway must be level and firm.
- Ramps work on most sedans, crossovers, and trucks, but very low sports cars or vehicles with air suspension may not have enough clearance.
- Always chock the rear wheels with blocks or bricks before driving onto ramps to prevent your car from rolling backward.
Types of ramps and what they cost
Plastic ramps are the most affordable option, usually priced between $30 and $60 per pair. They're lightweight, straightforward to store, and work well for cars up to about 6,000 pounds. Plastic ramps can crack or warp if exposed to extreme heat or cold for long periods, and they're less stable on uneven ground than heavier materials.
Aluminum ramps typically cost $60 to $150 per pair and can handle heavier vehicles — often up to 12,000 pounds or more. They don't warp or crack, they last longer, and they're easier to position on slightly uneven driveways. The trade-off is that they're heavier to carry and store, though still lighter than steel.
Steel ramps are the most durable but also the heaviest and most expensive, usually $150 and up. For a home oil change, aluminum or plastic ramps are usually sufficient. Check the weight rating on any ramp you buy — it should be at least equal to your car's curb weight, which you can find in your owner's manual or online by entering your vehicle's year, make, and model.
Checking whether your car can use ramps
Most sedans, crossovers, and pickup trucks can use ramps for an oil change. The main constraint is ground clearance. You need at least 6 inches of space between the lowest point of your car's undercarriage and the ground to slide ramps underneath. If your car sits very low to the ground — some sports cars or lowered vehicles — ramps may not fit.
Vehicles with air suspension systems, which lower the car when parked, sometimes cannot be driven onto ramps safely because the suspension may not hold the car at a stable height. Check your owner's manual or contact the manufacturer if you're unsure. For most everyday cars, ramps work fine.
Your driveway or work surface also matters. Ramps need a level, firm surface — concrete or asphalt work best. Gravel, dirt, or a slope can cause ramps to shift or sink, which is unsafe. If your driveway is sloped, position the ramps so the car is level from side to side, even if it tilts slightly front-to-back.
Setting up ramps safely before you drive on
Start by parking on a level surface and turning off the engine. Place the ramps on the ground in front of your front wheels, positioned so the wheels will roll straight up the center of each ramp. The ramps should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the car.
Before you drive forward, place wheel chocks — solid blocks or bricks — behind both rear wheels. This is the single most important safety step. The chocks prevent your car from rolling backward while you're underneath it. You can buy rubber wheel chocks for $15 to $30, or use wooden blocks or bricks if you don't have chocks.
Once the chocks are in place, slowly drive forward in a straight line, keeping the wheels centered on the ramps. Stop when your front wheels are roughly in the middle of the ramps. Do not drive all the way to the top — you only need enough height to work underneath. Shift into Park, turn off the engine, and engage the parking brake.
How ramps compare to jacks and stands
A jack lifts your car by a single point, usually the frame or a designated lifting point. Jack stands then hold the car at that height. This method lifts the car higher than ramps, which can be useful if you need more room to work. However, jacks require more steps, more equipment, and more knowledge to use safely. If the jack fails or the stands slip, the car can fall.
Ramps are simpler: you drive on, and the car sits on two wide, stable platforms. There's no single point of failure. Ramps are also faster to set up and take down. The trade-off is that ramps only lift the front of the car, so they don't work for jobs that require lifting the entire vehicle. For an oil change, which only requires access to the front undercarriage, ramps are usually the better choice for someone doing the work at home for the first time.
Some people use both: ramps for the front and jack stands for the rear if they need to work on the back of the car. For oil changes alone, ramps are sufficient and safer for beginners.
What to do after you finish the oil change
Once you've drained the old oil, replaced the filter, and added new oil, you're ready to lower the car. Start the engine and let it run for a few seconds to circulate the new oil, then turn it off and wait a minute. Check the oil level with the dipstick to make sure you added the right amount.
Shift into Reverse and slowly back off the ramps in a straight line. Go slowly — don't accelerate. Once the front wheels are completely off the ramps, continue backing up a few feet to clear them entirely. Turn off the engine, remove the wheel chocks from behind the rear wheels, and move the ramps out of the way.
Let the car sit for a few minutes before driving. This gives the new oil time to settle. Then you can drive normally. Store the ramps in a dry place — a garage or shed is ideal — to prevent plastic from warping or metal from rusting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use ramps on a sloped driveway?
Ramps work best on level ground. If your driveway slopes, position the ramps so the car is level from side to side, even if it tilts slightly front-to-back. Avoid steep slopes where the car would tilt significantly in any direction, as this makes the car unstable and can cause it to slide off the ramps.
What's the difference between ramps and drive-on ramps?
They're the same thing — "drive-on ramps" just means ramps you drive the wheels onto, as opposed to ramps you might use for other purposes. All car ramps for oil changes are drive-on ramps.
Do I need to use ramps if I have a truck with high ground clearance?
Trucks often have enough clearance to reach the drain plug without ramps. However, ramps still tilt the engine slightly, which helps oil drain more completely. If you can comfortably fit underneath without ramps, you don't need them, but they can make the job easier and faster.
Can I use ramps on gravel or dirt?
Gravel and dirt are not stable enough for ramps. The ramps can sink or shift, which makes your car unstable and unsafe. Use ramps only on concrete, asphalt, or other firm, level surfaces. If you don't have a paved driveway, consider using jack stands instead, or find a friend's driveway to use.
How long do ramps last?
Plastic ramps typically last 5 to 10 years with normal use. Aluminum ramps last 10 to 20 years or longer. Both degrade faster if left outside in sun and weather. Store ramps indoors when not in use to extend their life.