An oil change kit bundles the supplies you need to change your oil in one package

An oil change kit is a collection of items sold together that contains everything required to drain old oil from your engine and refill it with fresh oil. Instead of buying an oil filter, new oil, a drain pan, and other supplies separately, a kit packages them as a single purchase. Kits vary in what they include — some are bare-bones, others add tools or extra items — so knowing what comes in the box helps you decide whether you need anything else before you start.

The main reason people buy kits is convenience and cost. A kit is usually cheaper than buying each item individually at a parts store, and it saves you from forgetting something halfway through the job. Kits also come in different sizes based on your vehicle's engine, so you can match the oil volume and filter type to what your car actually needs.

Key Takeaways

  • Oil change kits typically include new oil, an oil filter, a drain pan, and an oil filter wrench, though contents vary by brand and price point.
  • You must match the kit's oil type and viscosity (the number like 5W-30) to your vehicle's owner manual, or your engine can be damaged.
  • Most kits do not include a jack, jack stands, or ramps, so you will need to source those separately if your vehicle sits too low to work under.
  • A basic kit costs between $25 and $50, while premium kits with extra tools or synthetic oil run higher.
  • After draining old oil, you pour new oil from the kit into the engine and replace the filter — the whole job usually takes 30 to 45 minutes for a beginner.

What typically comes inside an oil change kit

Most standard kits include four core items: new motor oil (usually in a 4 or 5-quart bottle), a replacement oil filter, a drain pan to catch old oil, and an oil filter wrench to remove the old filter. Some kits add a funnel to pour oil without spilling, a pair of latex gloves, or an oil drain plug wrench. Higher-priced kits may include ramps or a creeper (a low wheeled platform you lie on to slide under the car), though these are less common.

The oil itself is the largest component by volume. Kits come in different oil grades — the most common are 5W-30 and 10W-30 for passenger cars, though trucks and older engines may need different weights. The "W" stands for winter, and the numbers indicate how the oil flows at cold and hot temperatures. Your owner manual specifies which grade your engine requires; using the wrong one can reduce fuel economy or cause engine wear.

The drain pan is usually plastic and holds between 5 and 8 quarts, which is enough to catch all the old oil from most vehicles. The oil filter wrench is a metal or rubber tool that grips the cylindrical filter so you can unscrew it by hand — without it, the filter is often too tight to remove without damaging it.

How to check if a kit matches your vehicle

Before buying, open your owner manual and find the oil capacity and recommended viscosity. This information is usually in the maintenance section or on a sticker under the hood. Write down the exact grade (for example, SAE 5W-30) and the total quarts needed. Then check the kit's label to confirm the oil type and volume match.

You also need to verify the oil filter size. Kits list the filter by vehicle make, model, and year, or by a filter part number. If you are unsure, ask a parts store employee to confirm the filter fits your car — they can look it up in seconds. Using the wrong filter can cause oil leaks or poor engine performance.

If the kit does not specify which vehicles it fits, or if your car is older or unusual, buy the oil and filter separately so you can be certain. A mismatch is not worth the small savings.

What you will need to provide yourself

An oil change kit does not include everything you need to complete the job. You will need a way to lift or access the underside of your vehicle — either a jack and jack stands, ramps, or a garage pit. Never work under a car supported only by a jack; jack stands are essential safety equipment.

You will also need basic hand tools: a socket wrench or wrench that fits your oil drain plug (usually 13mm, 14mm, or 15mm), and possibly a screwdriver if your drain plug has a bolt head. A shop towel or old rags are useful for wiping spills and checking the oil level afterward. Some people wear an old shirt or apron because oil stains are permanent.

If the kit does not include a funnel, you will want one to pour new oil into the engine without spilling. A straightforward plastic funnel costs a few dollars and saves cleanup time. A drain plug gasket or crush washer is sometimes included in the kit, but if not, you may need to buy one separately — your manual or the parts store can tell you whether your vehicle requires a new one each time.

Step-by-step overview of using a kit

The basic process is: warm the engine slightly (so old oil flows more easily), lift the vehicle safely, remove the drain plug and let old oil drain into the pan, replace the drain plug, unscrew the old filter, screw on the new filter from the kit, lower the vehicle, pour new oil into the engine, check the level with the dipstick, and run the engine briefly to circulate the new oil.

Warming the engine takes only a minute or two of idling — do not let it get hot enough to burn you. Draining the old oil is the longest step and can take 10 to 15 minutes if the oil is thick or cool. The filter change is usually quick once you have the old one off. Pouring new oil and checking the level takes a few minutes. Most people finish in 30 to 45 minutes after their first time; experienced people do it in 20 minutes.

After you finish, check the oil level again after driving a few miles, because the new filter fills with oil and the level may drop slightly. Write down the date and mileage on the drain pan or a notebook so you remember when the next change is due.

Synthetic versus conventional oil kits

Kits come with either conventional (mineral) oil or synthetic oil. Conventional oil is cheaper and works well for most vehicles, but it breaks down faster and typically needs changing every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Synthetic oil lasts longer — often 7,500 to 10,000 miles or more — and performs better in extreme temperatures, but costs more per quart.

Your owner manual states whether your engine requires synthetic, conventional, or either one. Some newer cars are designed for synthetic and may have longer service intervals if you use it. If your manual says "conventional or synthetic," you can choose based on budget and how often you want to change oil. Mixing the two is safe, though it defeats the benefit of synthetic's longer life.

A kit with conventional oil typically costs $25 to $40. A kit with synthetic oil usually runs $40 to $70, depending on the brand and whether it includes extra tools. Over time, synthetic can save money because you change oil less often, but the upfront cost is higher.

Where to buy oil change kits and what to compare

Auto parts stores like AutoZone, O'Reilly, NAPA, and Advance Auto Parts stock kits in-store and online. Walmart and Target carry basic kits in their automotive sections. Online retailers like Amazon have a wide selection, though shipping heavy oil can add cost. Some dealerships sell kits specific to your vehicle model, which guarantees the right filter and oil type but usually costs more.

When comparing kits, look at the oil type and volume, the filter part number, and what tools are included. Read customer reviews to see whether people had trouble with the filter wrench or whether the drain pan leaked. Check the expiration date on the oil bottle — old oil can separate or thicken. If a kit seems unusually cheap, verify that the oil type matches your manual before buying.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a kit from a different brand than my car's manufacturer?

Yes. The oil type and filter size matter; the brand does not. A Mobil 5W-30 works just as well as a Chevron 5W-30 if both meet your engine's requirements. Aftermarket filters from brands like Fram or Bosch are widely used and reliable. Stick to the viscosity and filter size your manual specifies, not the brand name.

What do I do with the old oil after I drain it?

Never pour it down the drain or into the ground — it contaminates water and soil. Most auto parts stores accept used oil for free, even if you did not buy the kit from them. Some recycling centers take it. Many gas stations and quick-lube shops also accept it. Call ahead to confirm hours and whether they have a container limit.

Do I need to replace the drain plug gasket every time?

It depends on your vehicle. Some drain plugs have a crush washer that should be replaced each time; others have a reusable gasket. Your owner manual or the parts store can tell you which type yours is. If you are unsure, replacing it costs a dollar or two and prevents leaks, so it is worth doing.

What if the oil filter is stuck and I cannot unscrew it?

Tighten the filter wrench and turn slowly — do not force it or you may crack the filter housing. If it still will not budge, try tapping the wrench gently with a hammer to break the seal, then turn again. As a last resort, carefully puncture the filter with a screwdriver to let pressure out, then try again. Next time, do not tighten the new filter as hard — hand-tight plus a half turn is enough.

Can I use an oil change kit if my car is parked on the street?

It is difficult but possible if the car sits low enough to access the drain plug and filter. You will need ramps or a jack and stands, and you must may support the vehicle is stable and will not roll. Check local parking rules — some areas prohibit working on vehicles on public streets. A driveway or parking lot is safer and more convenient.