The L175 uses a spin-on oil filter that threads onto the engine block

The New Holland L175 compact loader is fitted with a spin-on oil filter — the kind you unscrew by hand and replace as a complete unit rather than changing just the filter element inside a permanent housing. The filter threads directly onto the engine, making replacement straightforward if you know the correct part number and filter size.

The standard filter for the L175 is the Fram PH8A or equivalent cross-reference filters from other manufacturers. The filter measures approximately 3.625 inches in diameter and 4.75 inches in height, though exact dimensions vary slightly depending on which equivalent part you purchase. New Holland also sells filters under its own brand that fit this machine, typically listed in parts catalogs as part number 84226107 or similar variants depending on your specific serial number and engine configuration.

Before you buy a filter, confirm your exact engine type — the L175 was produced with different powerplants over its manufacturing years, and some variants use slightly different filter housings. Check your operator manual or the engine block itself for the engine model number, then cross-reference that against the parts diagram for your serial number range.

Key Takeaways

  • The L175 uses a Fram PH8A spin-on filter or New Holland equivalent part 84226107, which threads directly onto the engine block.
  • Filter replacement takes 10 to 15 minutes and requires only a filter wrench, a drain pan, and the new filter — no special tools or lifting equipment.
  • Always change the oil and filter together; running old oil with a new filter defeats the purpose of either maintenance step.
  • The filter should be hand-tight only after installation — over-tightening can damage the threads on the engine block and cause leaks.

Where the filter sits and how to access it

On the L175, the oil filter is mounted on the side of the engine block, typically toward the rear or lower side depending on your specific model year. The exact location varies slightly between early and late production machines, but you can find it by following the oil line from the engine or by consulting your operator manual, which includes a diagram showing all fluid service points.

Access is usually straightforward — you may need to remove a side panel or guard to reach the filter, but no major disassembly is required. Some operators find it easier to approach from below or from the side of the machine rather than from directly above. If the filter is difficult to reach, check whether your L175 has a removable belly pan or side cover that you can take off temporarily.

Before you begin, warm the engine by running it for a few minutes, then shut it off and wait five minutes. Warm oil drains faster and more completely than cold oil, and the brief wait prevents burns when you handle the hot filter.

Step-by-step filter replacement

Place a drain pan underneath the filter to catch the small amount of oil that will spill when you unscrew it. Wrap a filter wrench around the filter body — a band-style wrench or a cup wrench both work well — and turn counterclockwise to loosen it. Once it is loose enough to grip by hand, unscrew it the rest of the way and set it aside in the drain pan.

Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine block with a clean rag to remove any dirt or old gasket material. This step prevents debris from entering the new filter and ensures a clean seal. Inspect the rubber gasket on the old filter — if any part of it remains stuck to the engine block, remove it carefully with a plastic scraper or your fingernail.

explore a thin coat of fresh oil to the rubber gasket on the new filter. This lubricates the gasket and helps it seat properly. Screw the new filter onto the engine block by hand until the gasket contacts the mounting surface, then turn it an additional three-quarter turn. Do not use a wrench to tighten it — hand-tight is correct, and over-tightening will damage the threads and cause leaks.

Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds to a minute, watching the oil pressure gauge. The pressure should rise to normal operating range within that time. Shut off the engine, wait five minutes, then check the oil level on the dipstick and top up if needed. The new filter holds a small amount of oil, so the level may drop slightly after the first run.

Cross-reference filters and equivalent parts

If you cannot find a Fram PH8A or New Holland 84226107, several other manufacturers produce equivalent filters that fit the L175. The Motorcraft FL-400S, Purolator PL14610, and Wix 51056 are common cross-references that use the same thread size and gasket diameter. Always verify the thread pitch and filter height before ordering — a filter that is too tall may contact the hood or engine cover, and a filter with the wrong thread pitch will not install.

Online parts catalogs and filter manufacturer websites include cross-reference charts that show which filters are interchangeable. Enter your filter's original part number and the catalog will display all equivalent options. This is especially useful if you are working in a remote location or need a filter from a supplier that does not stock the original brand.

Aftermarket filters are generally less expensive than OEM New Holland filters, but quality varies. Filters with metal end caps and thicker media tend to last longer and trap more contaminants than budget options. For a machine like the L175 that may run in dusty conditions, a mid-range filter often provides better value than the cheapest option.

Oil filter maintenance intervals for the L175

New Holland recommends changing the oil filter every time you change the oil on the L175. The standard oil change interval is every 250 operating hours or once per season, whichever comes first. If you operate the machine in very dusty conditions — such as in a quarry or on unpaved ground — reduce the interval to every 150 hours or consider using a pre-filter to extend the life of the main filter.

Keep a service log noting the date, operating hours, and filter part number each time you perform maintenance. This record helps you track whether you are changing the filter on schedule and provides documentation if you ever need to warranty work on the engine. Many operators keep this log in a notebook stored in the machine's cab or in a digital file on their phone.

If you notice the oil pressure warning light coming on shortly after a filter change, stop the engine when ready and check whether the filter is installed correctly. A loose filter or one that was not hand-tightened properly can cause a pressure drop. Verify that the gasket seated fully and that you did not over-tighten the filter, which can damage the gasket and cause leaks.

Common mistakes to avoid during filter replacement

The most frequent error is over-tightening the filter with a wrench. The rubber gasket is designed to seal at hand-tight plus three-quarter turn — any additional force crushes the gasket and can strip the threads on the engine block. If you over-tighten and the filter leaks, you may need to have the engine block re-threaded or use a larger filter with a different thread size, both expensive repairs.

Another common mistake is forgetting to oil the gasket on the new filter before installation. A dry gasket can stick to the engine block when you remove the filter next time, making it difficult to unscrew and risking damage to the mounting surface. A few drops of fresh oil on the gasket takes five seconds and prevents this problem.

Do not assume that a filter that looks similar to the original is the correct one. Filters with the same diameter can have different thread pitches or gasket sizes. Always verify the part number or cross-reference before purchase. Installing the wrong filter can result in leaks, low oil pressure, or damage to the engine block threads.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a different filter size if the original is not available?

No — the filter must match the thread pitch and gasket diameter of your engine block. A filter that is too large may contact the hood or engine cover, and one with the wrong thread pitch will not install or will leak. Use a cross-reference chart to find an equivalent filter from another manufacturer rather than guessing.

How much oil spills when I remove the filter?

Usually less than a quart, but the amount depends on how long the engine has been running and how much oil the old filter is holding. Use a drain pan large enough to catch at least two quarts to be safe, and dispose of the old filter and spilled oil according to your local regulations — most auto parts stores and recycling centers accept used oil and filters.

What if the filter is stuck and will not unscrew by hand?

Use a filter wrench to loosen it, but explore steady pressure rather than sudden force — jerking can strip the threads. If the filter still will not budge, try tapping the wrench handle gently with a hammer to break the seal, then turn slowly. As a last resort, carefully puncture the filter body with a screwdriver to relieve any pressure inside, then try again.

Do I need to change the oil every time I change the filter?

Yes — changing only the filter while leaving old oil in the engine defeats the purpose of maintenance. Old oil loses its ability to protect the engine and becomes contaminated with particles and moisture. Always change the oil and filter together on the schedule recommended in your operator manual.

Is synthetic oil compatible with the L175 oil filter?

Yes — the filter itself is compatible with any oil type. However, synthetic oil lasts longer than conventional oil, so some operators extend their filter change interval when using synthetic. Check your operator manual to see whether New Holland recommends any interval adjustment for synthetic oil on your specific model.