What happens during an oil change, and why you do it yourself
An oil change means draining the old oil from your engine, replacing the oil filter, and filling the engine with fresh oil. You do this because oil breaks down over time — it gets dirty, loses its ability to protect metal parts, and thickens or thins depending on heat and cold. Fresh oil reduces friction, keeps your engine cooler, and prevents rust and sludge buildup inside the engine.
Doing it yourself costs less than a shop visit because you pay only for the oil and filter, not labor. The work takes 30 minutes to an hour once you know the steps. You need basic tools you may already own, a safe place to work, and a way to dispose of the old oil — most auto parts stores take it free.
This guide walks you through the process in order, from preparation through disposal. If at any point the work feels unsafe or you hit a step that does not match your vehicle, stop and take the car to a shop. Not every engine is the same, and forcing something can cause damage.
Key Takeaways
- You will need your vehicle's manual to find the oil capacity, the correct oil type, and the location of the drain plug and filter on your specific model.
- The engine must be warm but not hot when you drain it — run it for a minute or two, then wait five minutes before starting work.
- Drain the old oil into a pan, replace the drain plug, swap out the filter, and refill with the amount and type your manual specifies.
- Old oil must go to an auto parts store, service station, or recycling center — never pour it down a drain or into the ground.
- Check the oil level with the dipstick after the engine has been off for at least five minutes and is parked on level ground.
Gather your tools and materials before you start
You need an oil drain pan (a shallow rectangular container, usually plastic, that holds at least 6 quarts), a wrench or socket that fits your drain plug, an oil filter wrench (a metal band or cup that grips the filter), fresh oil in the type and amount your manual specifies, and a new oil filter. You also need ramps or jack stands to safely raise the front of the car, a flashlight or headlamp, and old rags or paper towels.
Before you buy anything, open your owner's manual and write down three things: the oil capacity (how many quarts your engine holds), the oil grade (usually something like 5W-30 or 10W-40), and the filter part number. The manual also shows you where the drain plug and filter live on your engine — this varies widely between vehicles. If you do not have a manual, search "[your year, make, model] owner's manual PDF" online, or ask an auto parts store employee to show you these three things on your specific car.
Buy oil and a filter that match your manual exactly. Using the wrong grade can hurt fuel economy or engine protection. The filter part number matters too — filters are not interchangeable across models.
Warm the engine and raise the car safely
Start the engine and let it run for one to two minutes. This warms the oil so it flows faster and drains more completely. Then turn off the engine and wait five minutes — you want the oil warm enough to flow, but cool enough that you can touch the engine block without burning yourself.
While you wait, position your ramps or jack stands. If you use ramps, drive slowly onto them with the front wheels centered. If you use a jack and stands, place the jack under a frame point (your manual shows where), raise the car until the front wheels are a few inches off the ground, then slide stands under the frame on both sides and lower the car onto them. Never work under a car supported only by a jack — it can slip and cause serious injury.
Once the car is raised and stable, put on your flashlight and locate the drain plug underneath the engine. It is a bolt that sticks down from the oil pan. Place your drain pan directly under it.
Drain the old oil and replace the drain plug
Use your wrench or socket to loosen the drain plug by turning it counterclockwise. Once it is loose enough to turn by hand, unscrew it the rest of the way by hand, but keep your fingers clear of the stream — the oil may still be warm. Let the oil drain completely into the pan. This takes five to ten minutes. While it drains, wipe the drain plug clean with a rag.
Once the flow slows to a drip, check that a rubber or metal washer sits on the drain plug. If it is missing or damaged, replace it — this washer seals the plug and prevents leaks. Screw the drain plug back in by hand first, then tighten it with your wrench. Do not overtighten; you want it snug, not stripped. If you are unsure how tight, aim for the tightness of a jar lid — firm but not forced.
Remove the old filter and install the new one
Locate the oil filter. It is a cylindrical canister, usually white or black, mounted on the side of the engine. Position your drain pan underneath it to catch the oil that spills when you remove it. Use your oil filter wrench to loosen it by turning counterclockwise. Once it is loose, unscrew it by hand and let it drain into the pan.
Before you install the new filter, look at the rubber gasket (a flat ring) on top of the old filter. Wipe the mounting surface on the engine clean with a rag. Then take the new filter, dip your finger in fresh oil, and rub a thin coat around the rubber gasket on the new filter. This helps it seal properly. Screw the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the engine, then turn it another three-quarter turn. Do not use the wrench — hand-tight is correct.
Refill with fresh oil and check the level
Lower the car back to the ground. Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine — it usually has an oil can symbol on it. Place a funnel in the opening and pour in the amount of fresh oil your manual specifies. Pour slowly so it does not splash. Once you have added the amount listed, replace the cap.
Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds. This circulates the new oil and fills the filter. Then turn off the engine and wait at least five minutes for the oil to settle. Park on level ground, then pull out the dipstick (a long thin rod with markings on it), wipe it clean on a rag, reinsert it fully, and pull it out again. The oil level should be between the minimum and maximum marks. If it is low, add a little more oil and check again. If it is over the maximum, you added too much — you will need to drain some out.
Dispose of old oil properly
Pour the old oil from your drain pan into a clean, sealed container — an old milk jug or oil bottle works. Do not mix it with other liquids. Take it to an auto parts store (most accept it free), a quick-lube shop, a service station, or a hazardous waste recycling center. Call ahead if you are unsure whether a location takes oil. Never pour old oil down a drain, into the ground, or into the trash.
Wipe down your work area and put your tools away. You are done. Your engine now has fresh oil and a new filter, and you have a record of when you did the work — write the date and mileage in your manual or a notebook so you know when the next change is due.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I change my oil?
Most modern cars need an oil change every 5,000 to 10,000 miles or every six months, whichever comes first. Your owner's manual states the exact interval for your vehicle. Some newer cars can go longer between changes. Check your manual or the sticker on your windshield from your last service to know when you are due.
What if I spill oil on the ground or driveway?
Contain it when ready with sand, kitty litter, or oil absorbent material — do not let it spread. Once it is absorbed, sweep it up and dispose of it as hazardous waste at a recycling center. Oil damages soil and groundwater, so clean spills right away and do not hose them down a storm drain.
Can I change my oil if the engine is cold?
Cold oil drains slowly and incompletely, leaving more old oil in the engine. Warm oil flows faster and drains more thoroughly. Warm the engine for a minute or two, then wait five minutes so it cools enough to touch safely. This balance gives you the best results.
What if the drain plug is stuck and will not turn?
Stop when ready — forcing it can strip the threads and cause a leak you cannot fix without professional help. Spray the plug with penetrating oil (like WD-40), wait 15 minutes, and try again gently. If it still will not budge, take the car to a shop rather than risk damage.
Do I need to replace the drain plug every time?
No. The plug itself lasts many oil changes. What matters is the rubber or metal washer on it — if that washer is cracked, flattened, or missing, replace it. A damaged washer causes leaks. Most auto parts stores sell replacement washers cheaply if you need one.