The basic steps to change your oil yourself
Changing your oil takes about 30 to 45 minutes once you have the right tools and know where things are under your hood. You drain the old oil from the pan at the bottom of the engine, replace the oil filter, and pour in new oil to the correct level. The hardest part is usually getting under the car safely and finding the drain plug — everything else is straightforward.
You will need an oil drain pan (to catch the old oil), a wrench or socket that fits your drain plug, an oil filter wrench, new oil in the weight your car needs, a new oil filter, and a way to get under the vehicle safely — either a jack with jack stands or ramps. A creeper (a low wheeled platform) makes working under the car less painful on your back, but it is not required.
The process is the same for nearly every car: warm the engine slightly so the oil flows, get under safely, drain the old oil, replace the filter, add new oil, and check the level with the dipstick. The main variables are where the drain plug and filter sit on your specific model, and what oil weight (like 5W-30 or 10W-40) your owner's manual calls for.
Key Takeaways
- You need an oil drain pan, the correct wrench size for your drain plug, an oil filter wrench, new oil in the weight your manual specifies, and a new filter — total cost is usually $30 to $60 in parts.
- Warm the engine for two to three minutes before draining so the oil flows faster, then turn it off and wait five minutes before getting under the car.
- The drain plug is at the lowest point of the oil pan; turn it counterclockwise by hand or wrench until oil begins to drip, then unscrew it the rest of the way and let the pan fill for five to ten minutes.
- The oil filter screws on by hand; turn it counterclockwise until it stops, then unscrew it the rest of the way and let old oil drain into your pan before installing the new filter.
- Pour new oil through the filler cap on top of the engine, check the level with the dipstick after a minute, and run the engine for 30 seconds to circulate the new oil before checking again.
Finding the drain plug and filter on your car
The drain plug is always at the bottom of the oil pan, the large metal reservoir that hangs below the engine. On most cars it is on the side or rear of the pan and looks like a bolt with a hex head (six-sided). Your owner's manual will show you exactly where it is, or you can search "[your car year and model] oil drain plug location" online to find photos or videos of your specific vehicle.
The oil filter is usually mounted on the side of the engine block and looks like a metal cylinder about the size of a soda can. On some cars it is on top of the engine, on others it is tucked underneath or toward the back. Again, your manual or a quick online search will show you the exact spot. Once you know where both are, you can plan how to position the drain pan so it catches the oil without spilling.
Getting under the car safely
Never work under a car supported only by a jack. A jack is for raising the car; jack stands are for holding it while you work. If you use a jack, place jack stands under the frame on both sides before you get underneath, and lower the car onto the stands so the stands are doing the holding, not the jack.
Ramps are safer for beginners because you straightforward drive the front wheels up the ramps and the car stays stable without needing a jack at all. They cost $30 to $50 and work well if you have a level driveway. If you use ramps, chock the rear wheels with blocks or bricks so the car cannot roll backward.
Wear safety glasses to keep oil and debris out of your eyes, and wear old clothes or a shop apron because oil stains are permanent. Work in daylight or with a work light so you can see what you are doing.
Draining the old oil
Once you are safely under the car, position the drain pan under the drain plug. Loosen the plug with a wrench first — turn it counterclockwise a quarter turn or so — then finish unscrewing it by hand. As soon as you unscrew it the last bit, oil will begin to drip, so have the pan ready. Let the oil drain for five to ten minutes; it will slow to a trickle but does not need to stop completely.
While the oil drains, wipe the drain plug clean with a rag and inspect the rubber washer (the flat ring under the bolt head). If the washer is cracked, flattened, or missing, replace it — a new washer costs a dollar or two and prevents leaks. Screw the plug back in by hand first, then tighten it with a wrench. Do not over-tighten; snug is enough.
Replacing the oil filter
Position the drain pan under the filter to catch the oil that will spill when you remove it. Turn the filter counterclockwise by hand until it stops, then unscrew it the rest of the way. Oil will pour out, so let it drain into the pan for a minute or two.
Before installing the new filter, wipe the rubber gasket (the flat ring on top of the new filter) with a thin coat of new oil — this helps it seal properly. Screw the new filter onto the threaded post by hand until the gasket touches the engine, then turn it another three-quarter turn. Hand-tight is correct; do not use a wrench to tighten the filter.
Adding new oil and checking the level
Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine — it usually has an oil can symbol on it. Unscrew it and set it aside. Pour the new oil slowly through the opening. Your owner's manual will tell you how much oil your car holds; most cars take four to six quarts. Pour in about three-quarters of that amount, then stop and check the level.
Wait one minute for the oil to drain down into the pan, then pull out the dipstick (a long thin rod that hangs from the filler cap or nearby). Wipe it clean on a rag, reinsert it all the way, then pull it out again and read the level. The dipstick has marks or a range showing where the oil should be — aim for the full mark or the middle of the range. Add oil a little at a time until you reach the correct level, then screw the filler cap back on.
Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds to circulate the new oil through the filter and engine. Turn it off, wait one minute, then check the level again with the dipstick. Top up if needed. The level may drop slightly as the new filter fills with oil.
Disposing of old oil
Old oil cannot go in the trash or down the drain — it is toxic and harms groundwater. Most auto parts stores (AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA) will take old oil for free, even if you did not buy anything from them. Some will also take the old filter. Call ahead to confirm, or check their website.
If you have no nearby auto parts store, your city or county waste management program may have a hazardous waste collection day or drop-off location. Search "[your city] hazardous waste disposal" to find the nearest option. Keep the old oil in a sealed container until you can drop it off.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I change my oil?
Check your owner's manual — newer cars often go 7,500 to 10,000 miles between changes, while older cars may need a change every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Some manufacturers recommend synthetic oil, which lasts longer than conventional oil. The manual is the only reliable source; ignore the sticker on your windshield from the last shop.
What if I spill oil on my driveway?
Soak it up with kitty litter, sand, or old rags as soon as possible. Let the litter sit for a few hours to absorb the oil, then sweep it up and dispose of it as hazardous waste. For stubborn stains, a degreaser or pressure washer can help, but the sooner you soak it up, the less it will stain.
Can I change my oil if the engine is hot?
No — hot oil can burn your skin badly. Warm the engine for two to three minutes by running it, then turn it off and wait at least five minutes before touching anything. The oil will still flow easily, and you will not get burned.
What if the drain plug is stuck?
explore penetrating oil (like WD-40) around the plug and wait 15 minutes for it to soak in. Try loosening it again with a wrench, turning slowly and steadily rather than jerking. If it still will not budge, you may need a longer wrench for more leverage, or a socket and ratchet instead of a wrench. Do not force it — forcing can strip the threads.
Do I need to replace the drain plug washer every time?
Not always, but it is cheap insurance. If the washer looks flattened or cracked, replace it. If it looks fine, you can reuse it. Many people replace it every other oil change as a routine precaution.