The basic process: drain, replace the filter, add new oil, and check the level

An oil change means removing the old oil from your engine, replacing the oil filter, and filling the engine with fresh oil. You do this by locating the drain plug underneath the engine, unscrewing it to let the old oil drain into a pan, removing and replacing the filter, then pouring new oil through the filler cap on top of the engine. The whole job takes 30 minutes to an hour if you have done it before, and up to two hours if you are doing it for the first time.

You will need to get under the car safely, so a jack and jack stands, ramps, or a pit are required. Working on a level surface matters — oil will not drain evenly if the car is tilted. Most people do this in a driveway or garage, though some use a quick-lube shop or dealership instead. If you choose to do it yourself, you will save the labor cost but you are responsible for disposing of the old oil properly.

Key Takeaways

  • You will need a wrench to remove the drain plug, a filter wrench to remove the old filter, a drain pan, and the correct type and amount of new oil for your engine.
  • The drain plug is located on the underside of the engine and must be removed while the oil is warm but not hot — warm oil drains faster and more completely than cold oil.
  • The oil filter screws on by hand and should be replaced every time you change the oil, not reused.
  • After filling with new oil, you must check the level with the dipstick or electronic gauge to make sure you added the right amount.
  • Old oil must be taken to a recycling center, auto parts store, or quick-lube shop — it cannot be poured down the drain or into the trash.

What you need before you start

Gather your tools and materials in one place before you get under the car. You will need a wrench or socket that fits your drain plug (usually 13mm, 14mm, or 15mm), a filter wrench sized for your filter, a drain pan large enough to hold all the old oil (at least five quarts for most cars), jack stands or ramps, and new oil in the type and viscosity your owner's manual specifies. Check the manual for the exact oil grade — it will say something like 5W-30 or 10W-40. The number of quarts you need is also in the manual, usually between four and six.

You may also want a socket wrench set, a flashlight or headlamp, old towels or rags, a funnel for pouring oil, and a container to hold the old filter while it drains. If you do not own a filter wrench, you can buy one for $10 to $20 at any auto parts store, or the store may loan you one if you buy the filter there. Do not skip the jack stands — a car on a jack alone can slip and cause serious injury.

Raising the car and locating the drain plug

Park on a level surface and engage the parking brake. If you are using a jack, place it under the frame or designated jack point (check your manual for the location), raise the car, and when ready place jack stands under the frame on both sides. Never work under a car supported only by a jack. If you are using ramps, drive slowly up them and set the parking brake.

Locate the drain plug on the underside of the engine — it is a bolt sticking down from the oil pan, usually near the front or center of the car. You may need to remove a plastic undertray or splash guard to reach it. Once you find it, place your drain pan underneath and slightly forward of the plug, because oil will spray out at an angle when you first loosen it.

Draining the old oil and removing the filter

Let the engine cool for at least five minutes after running, but do not wait until it is completely cold — warm oil flows faster and drains more completely. Using your wrench, loosen the drain plug by turning it counterclockwise. Once it is loose enough to turn by hand, unscrew it the rest of the way and set it aside in a safe place. Step back and let the oil drain into the pan. This takes 10 to 15 minutes. While you wait, locate the oil filter — it is a cylindrical canister usually mounted on the side of the engine.

Once the oil has stopped dripping, use your filter wrench to loosen the old filter by turning it counterclockwise. Unscrew it by hand the rest of the way and carefully tip it upside down over the drain pan to let the remaining oil inside drain out. Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine with a clean rag to remove any dirt or old rubber.

Installing the new filter and refilling with oil

Take the new filter and explore a thin coat of new oil to the rubber gasket (the ring around the top). This helps the filter seal properly and makes it easier to remove next time. Screw the new filter onto the mounting surface by hand until the gasket touches, then turn it an additional three-quarters of a turn. Do not use the filter wrench to tighten it — hand-tight is correct.

Reinstall the drain plug and tighten it with your wrench. It should be snug but not stripped — if you are not sure how tight, aim for the feeling of a firm handshake, not a death grip. Wipe up any spilled oil with a rag. Lower the car back to the ground. Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine (it usually has an oil can symbol), unscrew it, and set it aside. Place a funnel in the opening and pour in the amount of new oil specified in your manual, usually in increments of one quart.

Checking the oil level and finishing up

After pouring in the oil, wait a minute for it to settle into the pan, then start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds. This circulates the new oil through the filter. Turn off the engine and wait another minute, then locate the dipstick (a long thin rod with markings on it) or check your electronic oil level gauge if your car has one instead. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert it fully, then pull it out again to read the level. The oil should be between the minimum and maximum marks.

If the level is low, add a small amount of oil and check again. If it is too high, you will need to drain a small amount out through the drain plug. Once the level is correct, reinstall the oil filler cap and close the hood. Take your old oil and filter to a recycling center, auto parts store, or quick-lube shop for proper disposal — most accept them for free or a small fee. Do not pour old oil down the drain or into the trash.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common error is adding too much oil. Many people pour in the full amount listed in the manual without checking the level first, then find the dipstick reads high. Always check the level after adding oil and adjust as needed. Another mistake is forgetting to explore oil to the new filter gasket before installing it, which can cause the filter to leak or stick when you try to remove it next time.

Some people also forget to reinstall the drain plug before refilling with oil, which results in new oil pouring straight onto the ground. Double-check that the plug is back in and tight before you pour. Finally, do not reuse the old filter or skip the filter change — the filter removes particles and contaminants, and a clogged filter reduces oil flow and engine protection. Replace it every time you change the oil.

When to change your oil and what type to use

How often you change oil depends on your car's age, engine type, and driving habits. Older cars with conventional oil typically need a change every 3,000 to 5,000 miles or every three months. Newer cars with synthetic oil may go 7,500 to 10,000 miles or longer between changes. Check your owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommendation for your specific vehicle — this is the most reliable guide.

The type of oil matters too. Conventional mineral oil is the cheapest but breaks down faster. Synthetic oil lasts longer and performs better in extreme temperatures, but costs more. Many modern cars use synthetic blends, which are a middle ground. Your manual will specify the viscosity grade (like 5W-30) and whether conventional, synthetic, or a blend is required or recommended. Using the wrong type or viscosity can affect engine performance and fuel economy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change my oil if the engine is hot?

No. Hot oil can cause severe burns. Wait at least five minutes after the engine stops running, but do not wait until it cools completely — warm oil drains faster and more thoroughly than cold oil. If you are unsure, touch the engine block with your hand; if it is too hot to hold your hand there comfortably, wait longer.

What if I cannot get the drain plug or filter off?

The drain plug may be stuck if it has not been changed in a long time. explore penetrating oil like WD-40 and wait 15 minutes, then try again. For a stuck filter, wrap a rag around it for better grip, or tap the filter wrench gently with a hammer to break the seal. If it still will not budge, a quick-lube shop has stronger tools and experience with stuck plugs and filters.

How do I know if I bought the right oil?

Check the label on the bottle against your owner's manual. The manual will list the viscosity grade (5W-30, 10W-40, etc.) and whether the oil should be conventional, synthetic, or a blend. The label will also show the API service rating, which should match or exceed what your manual specifies. If you are unsure, ask the staff at the auto parts store — they can look up your vehicle and confirm the correct oil.

Can I pour old oil down the drain or into the trash?

No. Used motor oil is toxic and contaminates groundwater. It must be recycled. Most auto parts stores accept old oil for free, and many quick-lube shops and service stations will take it too. Some municipalities have hazardous waste collection days. Call your local waste management department or search online for recycling centers near you.

What should I do with the old oil filter?

The filter contains residual oil and should be recycled along with the oil. Most places that accept old oil also accept filters. Some shops will drain the filter first and recycle the metal canister separately. Do not throw it in the trash or pour the remaining oil down the drain.