The G37 uses a cartridge-style oil filter that sits on top of the engine

The Infiniti G37 (2008–2013) does not have a spin-on filter like many other cars. Instead, it has a cartridge filter housed in a plastic canister on the valve cover. This means you remove the entire canister cap, pull out the filter element inside, and replace just that element — not the whole assembly. The filter element itself is a cylinder about 3 inches tall and 2.5 inches wide.

Because the filter sits on top of the engine rather than underneath, you will not need to crawl under the car or drain oil from a filter bowl. You will, however, need to remove the canister cap, which requires a special wrench or socket. Most people use a 74mm oil filter socket, though some use an adjustable wrench if a socket is not available.

The cartridge design means less mess than a traditional spin-on filter, but it also means you cannot straightforward unscrew and replace — you have to open the canister, remove the old element, clean the inside, and install the new one. This takes a few extra minutes compared to a spin-on filter.

Key Takeaways

  • The G37 filter is a cartridge element inside a plastic canister on the valve cover, not a spin-on filter underneath the engine.
  • You will need a 74mm oil filter socket or wrench to remove the canister cap, along with a new filter element and a replacement O-ring.
  • The entire job takes 10 to 15 minutes and requires no special tools beyond the socket and a drain pan to catch any spilled oil.
  • Genuine Infiniti filter elements cost between $15 and $25, and aftermarket options are available for less.

What filter element and O-ring to buy

The correct filter element for all G37 model years is Infiniti part number 16510-JK60A (or equivalent OEM part). This is the same element across the entire G37 production run. Aftermarket equivalents are made by Fram, Bosch, and Mobil, and they fit the same canister.

When you buy a replacement element, you also need a new O-ring — a rubber seal that sits between the canister cap and the engine. The OEM O-ring is part number 11009-JK60A. Many filter kits sold for the G37 include both the element and the O-ring, so check the package before you buy them separately. If you buy them apart, the O-ring costs $3 to $5.

You will also need fresh oil to top up the engine after the filter change. The G37 holds about 5.1 quarts of oil, and a filter change typically uses 0.3 to 0.5 quarts. Use the weight and type specified in your owner's manual — most G37s call for 5W-30 or 10W-30 synthetic or conventional oil.

Step-by-step filter replacement

Start with the engine cold or warm but not hot. Locate the oil filter canister on top of the engine — it is a black plastic cylinder about 4 inches tall, usually near the front of the valve cover. Place a drain pan underneath it to catch any oil that spills when you open it.

Use the 74mm socket and a ratchet to turn the canister cap counterclockwise. It will loosen gradually; do not force it if it is stuck. Once it is loose enough, unscrew it by hand and lift it straight up. Oil will drip out, so keep the drain pan in place. Inside the canister, you will see the old filter element — a white or yellow cylinder with a rubber O-ring on top.

Pull the old element straight out and set it aside. Wipe the inside of the canister with a clean rag to remove any debris or old oil residue. Look at the rubber O-ring that was on top of the old element — if it stuck to the canister instead of coming off with the element, remove it now. This is important: if you leave the old O-ring in place, the new one will not seal properly.

Slide the new filter element into the canister, making sure it sits flat on the bottom. Place the new O-ring on top of the element. Screw the canister cap back on by hand first, then use the socket to tighten it. Tighten firmly but do not over-tighten — hand-tight plus a quarter turn with the socket is usually enough. If you over-tighten, you risk cracking the plastic canister.

Checking your work and topping off oil

Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds, then turn it off. Wait a minute and check the oil level using the dipstick or the digital gauge on the dashboard. The filter change will have lowered the level slightly. Add oil in small amounts — usually a quart or less — until the level reaches the full mark.

Run the engine again for another 30 seconds and check for leaks around the canister cap. If you see oil dripping, turn off the engine, let it cool for a few minutes, and tighten the cap a bit more. Once the engine is cool, check the level one more time and top off if needed.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is forgetting to remove the old O-ring from the canister before installing the new one. If both rings are in place, the new one will not seal, and oil will leak out around the cap. Always wipe the canister clean and look for a rubber ring stuck to the inside.

Another mistake is over-tightening the canister cap. The plastic canister can crack if you use too much force with the socket. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn is the right amount — you should not need to strain to tighten it.

Some people also forget to add oil back after the filter change. The G37 will show a low oil warning on the dashboard if you do not top it off, and running low on oil can damage the engine. Always check the level after the filter change and add oil until it reaches the full mark.

When to replace the filter

Infiniti recommends replacing the oil filter every time you change the oil. For most G37 owners, that means every 3,000 to 5,000 miles with conventional oil, or every 7,500 to 10,000 miles with synthetic oil. Check your owner's manual for the exact interval for your car and the type of oil you use.

If you do not drive often, replace the filter at least once a year even if you have not reached the mileage interval. Oil and filters degrade over time, and a year-old filter may not protect the engine as well as a fresh one.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use any 74mm socket, or does it have to be a special oil filter socket?

A standard 74mm socket works fine. An oil filter socket has a rubber insert to grip the canister cap without slipping, which is helpful but not required. If you use a regular socket, make sure it fits snugly and turn slowly to avoid stripping the plastic cap.

What if the canister cap is stuck and won't turn?

Let the engine cool completely, then try again. If it is still stuck, wrap a rubber band around the socket to improve grip, or tap the socket gently with a hammer to help it bite into the cap. Do not force it — forcing can crack the canister. If it remains stuck after cooling, you may need a penetrating oil like WD-40 left on the cap for an hour.

Do I need to replace the plastic canister itself, or just the element inside?

Just the element. The canister is reusable and lasts the life of the car. You only replace the element and O-ring each time. If the canister cracks or leaks, then you replace the whole assembly, but this is rare.

What happens if I forget to put the new O-ring on before screwing the cap back on?

Oil will leak around the cap as soon as you start the engine. You will see it dripping onto the engine or the ground. Turn off the engine, let it cool, remove the cap, and install the O-ring. This is an straightforward fix but wastes a little oil.

Is synthetic oil better for the G37, and does it change how often I replace the filter?

Synthetic oil lasts longer than conventional oil and allows longer intervals between changes — typically 7,500 to 10,000 miles instead of 3,000 to 5,000 miles. The filter should still be replaced at each oil change, regardless of oil type. Your owner's manual specifies the correct interval for your car.