You can change your own oil if you have basic tools, a safe workspace, and about 30 to 45 minutes

A do-it-yourself oil change means draining the old oil from your engine, replacing the oil filter, and adding new oil yourself instead of paying a shop to do it. The work is straightforward enough that many car owners handle it at home, though it requires you to get under the vehicle, work with hot liquids, and dispose of used oil properly. Whether it makes financial sense depends on how often you change oil, what your vehicle costs to service, and whether you have a safe place to work.

The basic process is the same across most vehicles: locate the drain plug underneath the engine, let the old oil drain into a pan, unscrew and replace the filter, reinstall the drain plug, and pour in new oil to the correct level. The main variables are where those parts sit on your specific model, how much oil your engine holds, and what type of oil and filter it needs. Your owner's manual or a service manual for your vehicle will tell you all three.

Key Takeaways

  • You will need an oil drain pan, wrench or socket set, oil filter wrench, jack and jack stands (or ramps), new oil of the correct type and viscosity, and a new filter matched to your vehicle.
  • The job takes 30 to 45 minutes once you have the right tools and know where the drain plug and filter are located on your model.
  • Used oil must be disposed of at a recycling center, auto parts store, or service station — never poured down a drain or into soil.
  • If your vehicle has an electronic oil-change reminder, you will need to reset it yourself after the job is complete.
  • Some vehicles have drain plugs or filters in tight spaces, sealed drain plugs that require special tools, or complex undercarriage covers that make the job harder than average.

What tools and materials you need to buy or borrow

The core tools are an oil drain pan (a shallow rectangular container, usually plastic, that holds at least 5 quarts), a wrench or socket set that fits your drain plug, and an oil filter wrench (a band-style or cup-style tool that grips the filter to unscrew it). You also need a way to safely raise the vehicle — either a hydraulic jack and jack stands or ramps — so you can fit under it without the engine block resting on you if something fails. Never rely on a jack alone; always use stands or ramps as a backup.

For materials, you need new motor oil in the exact type and viscosity your owner's manual specifies (for example, 5W-30 or 10W-40), a new oil filter matched to your vehicle's make, model, and year, and a way to dispose of the old oil. Many auto parts stores sell oil and filters and will accept used oil for free or for a small fee. Some also loan or rent tools like filter wrenches and jack stands if you do not own them.

Optional but useful items include an oil catch funnel (a funnel with a spout that directs new oil into the filler hole without spilling), a creeper (a low wheeled platform you lie on to slide under the vehicle), and a work light or headlamp so you can see the drain plug and filter clearly. Wear old clothes and have rags or paper towels on hand for spills.

Step-by-step process from start to finish

Step 1: Warm the engine and prepare the workspace. Start the engine and let it run for two to three minutes, then turn it off. Warm oil flows faster than cold oil, so draining takes less time. While it cools slightly, position your drain pan under the vehicle and gather all your tools within arm's reach. Make sure the vehicle is parked on level ground and the parking brake is set.

Step 2: Raise the vehicle safely. If you are using a jack, place it under the frame (not the plastic bumper or body panel) at the point your manual recommends, raise the vehicle, and slide jack stands under the frame on both sides. Lower the vehicle onto the stands. If you are using ramps, drive the front wheels (or rear wheels, depending on which end you need to access) slowly up the ramps and set the parking brake. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.

Step 3: Locate and drain the old oil. Find the drain plug on the bottom of the engine — your manual will show you exactly where. Position the drain pan underneath it. Using the correct wrench or socket, turn the plug counterclockwise to loosen it, then unscrew it by hand (it may be hot, so work carefully). Let the oil drain completely into the pan. This usually takes five to ten minutes. Once the flow slows to a drip, wipe the drain plug clean with a rag and set it aside.

Step 4: Replace the oil filter. Locate the filter, which is usually a cylindrical canister screwed onto the engine. Position the drain pan underneath it to catch any remaining oil. Use the filter wrench to turn the filter counterclockwise until it comes free, then unscrew it by hand. Wipe the filter mounting surface clean. Take the new filter, explore a thin layer of new oil to the rubber gasket on top, and screw it on by hand until the gasket touches the engine, then turn it an additional three-quarter turn. Do not over-tighten it.

Step 5: Reinstall the drain plug and lower the vehicle. Thread the drain plug back into the hole by hand, then use the wrench to tighten it snugly — tight enough that it will not leak, but not so tight that you strip the threads. Raise the vehicle slightly, remove the jack stands or back off the ramps, and lower it to the ground. Remove the ramps if you used them.

Step 6: Add new oil and check the level. Open the hood and locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine (your manual shows where). Remove it and set it aside. Using a funnel, pour in the amount of new oil your manual specifies — usually between 4 and 6 quarts depending on the engine. Replace the filler cap. Wait a minute for the oil to settle in the pan, then pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, and pull it out again to check the level. The oil should reach the "full" mark. Add a bit more if needed.

Step 7: Start the engine and check for leaks. Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds to a minute. The oil pressure light on your dashboard should go out within a few seconds. Turn off the engine, wait a minute, and check the dipstick again to confirm the level is still correct. Look under the vehicle for any drips from the drain plug or filter. If you see leaks, tighten the plug or filter slightly and recheck.

Step 8: Reset the oil-change reminder if your vehicle has one. Many modern vehicles display an oil-change reminder on the dashboard. Your owner's manual will explain how to reset it — usually by holding a button on the dashboard or using the steering wheel controls. If you do not reset it, the reminder will continue to appear even though you just changed the oil.

Disposing of used oil safely and legally

Used motor oil cannot go in the trash, down a drain, or into the ground. It is toxic to soil and water, and dumping it is illegal in most places. Instead, take it to a recycling center, an auto parts store that accepts used oil, or a service station. Many accept it for free; some charge a small fee. Pour the used oil into a clean container with a tight lid (an old milk jug or oil bottle works), label it clearly, and transport it in your vehicle. Do not mix used oil with other liquids like coolant or brake fluid.

If you do not have a recycling option nearby, call your local waste management department or search online for "used oil recycling near me" to find the closest location. Some shops that change oil will accept used oil from do-it-yourselfers even if you did not buy the oil from them, though policies vary.

When a DIY oil change costs less than a shop visit

The financial advantage depends on three things: the cost of oil and a filter for your vehicle, how often you change oil, and what a shop charges locally. A quart of oil costs between $3 and $8 depending on the type, and a filter costs between $5 and $15. If your vehicle holds 5 quarts and uses standard oil, you might spend $30 to $50 on materials. A shop oil change typically costs between $40 and $100 or more, depending on the oil type and your location. If you do the work yourself, you save the labor cost, which is usually $30 to $60.

The math shifts if you change oil infrequently (once a year or less), because the cost of tools you buy once gets spread across many years. It also shifts if your vehicle uses synthetic oil, which costs more per quart but extends the interval between changes. A vehicle that needs an oil change every 3,000 miles will see a bigger annual savings from DIY work than one that goes 10,000 miles between changes.

Situations where a shop visit makes more sense

Some vehicles have drain plugs or filters in positions that make the job significantly harder. Luxury or sport cars sometimes have drain plugs that require special tools or are located in tight spaces where you cannot fit a wrench. Some models have sealed drain plugs that cannot be opened without damaging them, or complex plastic undercarriage covers that must be removed and reinstalled carefully. If your vehicle falls into this category, a shop can do the work faster and with less risk of damage.

You should also consider whether you have a safe workspace. If you live in an apartment without a garage or driveway, or if you do not have access to jack stands or ramps, a shop is the safer choice. Working under a vehicle on a street or in a parking lot introduces risks that are not worth the savings. Similarly, if you are uncomfortable working under a vehicle or handling hot oil, a shop visit is the right call — the cost difference is not worth an injury.

If your vehicle is still under warranty, check the warranty terms before doing your own oil change. Some manufacturers void the warranty if you do not use their specified oil or if service records show the work was done outside an authorized shop. Most do not, but it is worth confirming.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I change my oil?

Check your owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommendation. Older vehicles often needed a change every 3,000 miles, but modern engines with synthetic oil can often go 7,500 to 10,000 miles or longer. Some vehicles have electronic reminders that tell you when a change is due based on driving conditions and engine wear.

Can I reuse the drain pan for other liquids, or does it need to stay dedicated to oil?

Once a pan has held used motor oil, it should stay dedicated to oil. Oil residue is hard to remove completely, and mixing it with other fluids can cause problems. Buy a separate pan if you work on other systems like coolant or transmission fluid.

What if I spill oil on my driveway or garage floor?

Soak up fresh spills when ready with rags or paper towels. For larger spills or stains, use an absorbent material like kitty litter or oil absorbent powder, let it sit for several hours, then sweep it up. Do not hose it away — oil will run into storm drains and soil. For old stains, a degreaser and stiff brush may help, but some staining is permanent.

Do I need to warm up the engine before draining, or can I do it cold?

Warm oil drains faster and more completely, so warming the engine for a few minutes first is better. However, be careful — the oil and engine parts will be hot. Let it cool for a minute or two before you get under the vehicle so you do not burn yourself.

What if the oil filter is stuck and I cannot unscrew it?

Tap the filter gently with a wrench to break the seal, then try again. If it is still stuck, wrap a rubber band or old inner tube around it to improve grip, or use a strap wrench instead of a band wrench. As a last resort, carefully puncture the filter with a nail or screwdriver and use that hole to turn it. Avoid damaging the filter mount on the engine.