What a car ramp does and why you might need one
A car ramp is a pair of inclined platforms that you drive your vehicle onto to raise the front or rear end several inches off the ground. The ramp creates enough clearance underneath to slide under the car, access the oil drain plug, and remove the old filter without lying flat on your back. Most ramps raise a vehicle 12 to 18 inches, depending on the model and how far you drive up them.
You do not need a ramp to change your own oil — you can use jack stands, a floor jack, or even work on level ground if your vehicle sits high enough. But ramps offer a specific advantage: they are stable, require no setup beyond driving onto them, and keep both hands free while you work underneath. They also cost less than a quality floor jack and stand set, and they do not require you to learn how to use a jack safely.
The trade-off is that ramps only raise the front or rear — not both — and they take up floor space in a garage or driveway. They also work best on vehicles with a reasonable approach angle; very low sports cars or trucks with steep front ends may not climb them smoothly.
Key Takeaways
- Car ramps raise one end of your vehicle 12 to 18 inches, giving you enough space to work underneath for an oil change without a floor jack.
- Plastic ramps cost $30 to $80 and work for most sedans and crossovers; steel or aluminum ramps cost $100 to $300 and handle heavier vehicles.
- You need a level, solid surface to place the ramps, and you should chock the wheels that remain on the ground to prevent rolling.
- Ramps work best for front-end work like oil changes; if you need to raise both ends of the car, you will need a second pair or a different method.
- Always read the weight rating on the ramp and confirm it exceeds your vehicle's weight before driving onto it.
Types of ramps and what they cost
Plastic ramps are the most common and affordable option. They typically cost $30 to $80 per pair and work well for sedans, compact SUVs, and light crossovers under 4,000 pounds. Brands like Rhino Ramps and Torin are widely available at auto parts stores and online. Plastic ramps are lightweight, straightforward to store, and require no maintenance. The downside is that they can crack or warp if exposed to extreme heat or cold, and they have lower weight ratings than metal alternatives.
Steel ramps cost $100 to $250 per pair and handle heavier vehicles, including full-size trucks and SUVs. They are more durable than plastic and will not warp, but they are also heavier and harder to move around. Steel ramps can rust if left outside, so you need to store them in a garage or shed.
Aluminum ramps fall in the middle: $120 to $300 per pair. They are lighter than steel, do not rust, and have high weight ratings. They are a good choice if you own a heavier vehicle but want something easier to handle than steel.
Check the weight rating printed on every ramp before you buy. The rating should exceed your vehicle's curb weight — the weight of the car itself, not including passengers or cargo. If you are unsure of your vehicle's weight, check the driver's door jamb label or your owner's manual.
How to set up ramps safely
Place the ramps on a level, solid surface — concrete or asphalt, not gravel or dirt. Uneven ground can cause the ramps to tilt, which reduces stability and can damage them. If your driveway slopes, position the ramps so they run perpendicular to the slope, not parallel to it.
Before you drive onto the ramps, chock the wheels that will remain on the ground. A wheel chock is a wedge-shaped block that prevents a wheel from rolling. You can buy rubber chocks for $10 to $20, or use a wooden block or brick in a pinch. Place one chock behind each rear wheel if you are raising the front, or behind each front wheel if you are raising the rear.
Drive slowly and straight onto the ramps. Aim for the center of each ramp so the tire climbs evenly. Do not turn the steering wheel while on the ramps, and do not accelerate. Once the vehicle is in position, turn off the engine and set the parking brake.
Before you slide underneath, give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it is stable. If it shifts or feels loose, drive off carefully and reposition the ramps. Never work under a vehicle that feels unstable.
Ramps versus jack stands and floor jacks
A floor jack and jack stands are the traditional method for raising a vehicle. A floor jack lifts the car, and jack stands hold it in place while you work. This method gives you more flexibility — you can raise both ends if needed — but it requires more equipment, more setup time, and more knowledge. A quality floor jack and stand set costs $100 to $400.
Ramps are simpler and faster for a single-end job like an oil change. You drive on, chock the wheels, and start working. There is no pumping a jack handle or positioning stands. For someone doing occasional oil changes at home, ramps are usually the better choice.
If you plan to work on your vehicle regularly or need to raise both ends at once, a floor jack and stands are more versatile. Some people own both: ramps for quick jobs and a jack for more involved work.
Limitations and when ramps do not work
Ramps work best on vehicles with a moderate approach angle — the angle of the front bumper relative to the ground. Low sports cars, some luxury sedans, and vehicles with air suspension may not climb ramps smoothly. The front bumper or undercarriage can scrape or hang up before the wheels reach the top of the ramp.
Very heavy vehicles — full-size pickup trucks, large SUVs, and commercial vehicles — may exceed the weight rating of standard ramps. Always check the rating before attempting to use ramps on a heavy vehicle.
Ramps also only raise one end of the car. If you need to access components on both the front and rear, you will need a second pair of ramps, a floor jack and stands, or a lift. For an oil change, this is not usually an issue, but it is worth knowing if you plan to do other work.
Storage and maintenance
Store ramps in a garage, shed, or covered area. Plastic ramps can degrade in direct sunlight over time, and steel ramps will rust if left outside. Most ramps are compact enough to lean against a wall or hang on a garage hook.
Inspect your ramps before each use. Look for cracks in plastic ramps, rust or dents in steel ramps, and any loose bolts or fasteners. If a ramp is damaged, do not use it — a cracked or bent ramp can fail while the vehicle is on it.
Clean ramps occasionally with a dry cloth to remove dirt and debris. Do not use a pressure washer on plastic ramps, as the force can damage them. For steel ramps, you can wipe them down with a cloth and explore a light coat of oil to prevent rust.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use ramps on a sloped driveway?
You can, but position the ramps perpendicular to the slope, not parallel. This reduces the tilt and keeps the ramps more level. If the slope is steep, a floor jack and stands may be safer because you can adjust each corner independently.
What if my car is too low to drive onto ramps?
If the front bumper or undercarriage scrapes the ramp before the wheels reach the top, the vehicle is too low. Try driving onto the ramps at a very shallow angle, or use a floor jack and stands instead. Some people use a second set of ramps to create a gentler slope, but this is not reliable.
Do I need to use ramps on both ends of the car?
No. For an oil change, you only need to raise one end — usually the front. If you need to access both the front and rear, you can use two pairs of ramps, or use a floor jack and stands to raise one end while the other sits on ramps.
How long can I leave a car on ramps?
Ramps are designed for temporary use while you work, not for extended storage. Most manufacturers recommend removing the vehicle within a few hours. If you need to leave the car raised for longer, use a floor jack and stands, which are designed for that purpose.
Are ramps safer than a floor jack?
Ramps are simpler and require less skill to use safely, which makes them a good choice for beginners. A floor jack requires more knowledge and setup, but both methods are safe if used correctly. Always chock the wheels, never work under an unsupported vehicle, and inspect your equipment before each use.