What happens during an oil change
An oil change means draining the old oil from your engine, replacing the oil filter, and filling the engine with fresh oil. The whole job takes 30 minutes to an hour if you do it yourself, or 45 minutes to two hours at a shop — mostly waiting time. You need the car to be warm (so the oil flows), a wrench to remove the drain plug and filter, a drain pan to catch the old oil, and new oil and a filter that match your car's specifications.
Your engine oil breaks down over time as it circulates through the engine, picking up dirt and heat damage. Fresh oil protects metal parts from friction and wear. Most cars need an oil change every 5,000 to 10,000 miles, though some newer vehicles can go 15,000 miles between changes — check your owner's manual for the exact interval for your car.
Key Takeaways
- You need your car's oil type and capacity (found in the owner's manual or on a sticker under the hood) before you buy oil or a filter.
- The drain plug is usually on the bottom of the engine; you unscrew it by hand or with a wrench, let the old oil drain into a pan, then screw it back in.
- The oil filter screws on by hand and comes off the same way — turn it counterclockwise until it stops, then unscrew the rest by hand.
- You can do an oil change yourself with basic tools, or pay a shop $35 to $75 depending on your location and whether you need synthetic oil.
- Old oil must be disposed of at a recycling center, auto parts store, or shop — never pour it down a drain or into the ground.
Finding your car's oil type and capacity
Before you buy anything, you need to know what oil your engine takes. Open your owner's manual and look for a section on maintenance or fluids — it will list the oil type (usually something like "5W-30" or "10W-40") and how many quarts your engine holds. If you do not have the manual, you can find this information on a sticker under the hood, usually on the inside of the hood itself or on the engine block.
The numbers in the oil type refer to how thick the oil is at different temperatures. The first number (before the W, which stands for winter) is the thickness when cold; the second is the thickness when hot. Your car's engine is designed for a specific thickness, so using the wrong oil can reduce protection or cause the engine to work harder. If you are unsure, call your car's dealership with your vehicle identification number (VIN), or take a photo of the sticker and show it to an auto parts store employee.
Gathering tools and materials
If you are changing the oil yourself, you will need: a wrench or socket set (usually 13mm to 17mm, depending on your car), a drain pan large enough to hold your engine's oil capacity, a new oil filter that matches your car, fresh oil in the correct type and amount, an oil filter wrench (optional but helpful), and ramps or jack stands to safely raise the car if you need to access the drain plug from underneath.
You can buy all of these at an auto parts store. Bring your car's year, make, and model, and the employee can hand you the correct filter and recommend the right oil. A drain pan costs $10 to $20, an oil filter wrench costs $5 to $15, and oil costs $3 to $12 per quart depending on whether you choose conventional or synthetic. If you do not have a wrench set, you can borrow one or buy a basic set for $20 to $40.
Draining the old oil
Park on a level surface and let the engine cool for five to ten minutes — warm oil drains faster, but hot oil can burn you. Locate the drain plug on the bottom of the engine (it looks like a bolt sticking down). Place your drain pan underneath it, then use a wrench to turn the plug counterclockwise. Once it is loose enough, you can usually unscrew it the rest of the way by hand — be ready for hot oil to drip out.
Let the oil drain completely, which takes five to ten minutes. While you wait, wipe the drain plug clean with a rag and inspect the rubber washer on the bottom of it. If the washer is cracked or flattened, replace it (they cost less than $1). Once the oil has stopped dripping, screw the drain plug back in by hand first, then tighten it with a wrench — do not over-tighten, or you will strip the threads.
Removing and installing the oil filter
The oil filter is a cylindrical canister screwed onto the engine, usually on the side or top. Position your drain pan underneath it (a little oil will spill when you remove it), then turn the filter counterclockwise by hand. If it is too tight, use an oil filter wrench to loosen it first, then finish unscrewing by hand. Once it comes off, wipe the rubber gasket surface on the engine clean with a rag.
Take your new filter and coat the rubber gasket (the ring on top) with a thin layer of fresh oil — this helps it seal properly. Screw the new filter onto the engine by hand until the gasket touches, then turn it another three-quarters of a turn. Do not use a wrench; hand-tight is correct. If you over-tighten, the gasket will tear and the filter will leak.
Adding new oil and checking the level
Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine — it usually has an oil can symbol on it. Unscrew it and set it aside. Pour in the amount of oil your manual specified, then wait a minute for it to drain down into the pan. Screw the cap back on, start the engine, and let it run for 30 seconds, then turn it off and wait two minutes for the oil to settle.
Pull out the dipstick (a long metal rod with markings on it), wipe it clean on a rag, reinsert it fully, then pull it out again and check the level. The oil should be between the minimum and maximum marks. If it is low, add a little more oil and check again. If you overfill, you can siphon out the excess or take it to a shop to have them remove it. Once the level is correct, you are done — the old oil needs to be taken to a recycling center or auto parts store for disposal.
When to take your car to a shop instead
If your car is very low to the ground, you may not have room to work underneath it safely without a proper lift. If you do not have a wrench set or do not feel confident working under a car, a shop is the faster and safer choice. Dealerships and independent shops both offer oil changes; dealerships cost more ($50 to $75) but use the exact oil and filter the manufacturer recommends, while independent shops usually cost $35 to $60 and often have the same parts in stock.
Some newer cars have sealed drain plugs or filters in hard-to-reach places, which makes a DIY change difficult. If you are unsure whether your car is straightforward to work on, ask at an auto parts store or check online forums for your specific model — people usually post photos and tips for common cars.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if my oil is actually dirty?
Pull out the dipstick and wipe it on a white rag. Fresh oil is amber or light brown; old oil is dark brown or black. If the oil is dark and you are past your car's recommended interval, it is time for a change. Some people change oil by mileage alone and never check, which is fine — the interval is designed to be safe.
What should I do with the old oil?
Take it to an auto parts store (most accept it free), a recycling center, or a shop. Never pour it down a drain, into the ground, or into the trash. Oil is toxic to soil and water, and dumping it is illegal in most places. If you changed the oil at home, seal the drain pan and transport it carefully to avoid spills.
Can I use a different oil type than what the manual says?
No. Your engine is designed for a specific oil thickness and performance level. Using the wrong type can reduce protection, increase fuel consumption, or damage the engine over time. If you are unsure whether synthetic or conventional is right, your manual will specify, or call your dealership.
What if the oil filter is stuck and I cannot unscrew it?
Use an oil filter wrench for better grip, or wrap a rubber band around the filter to increase friction. If it is still stuck, tap it gently with a hammer to break the seal, then try again. Do not use excessive force — if the filter starts to dent, stop and take the car to a shop to avoid damaging the filter housing.
How often should I check my oil between changes?
Check it once a month or before a long drive. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it, reinsert it fully, then pull it out and read the level. If it is below the minimum mark, add oil until it reaches the middle. Some oil consumption is normal, especially in older cars, but a sudden drop means you may have a leak.