The oil filter location and part number for your 2017 Ford Explorer

The 2017 Ford Explorer uses a cartridge-style oil filter housed in a plastic canister on top of the engine. You'll find it toward the front-right side of the engine bay, mounted vertically. The part number is FL-2051S if you have the 3.5-liter EcoBoost engine, or FL-400 if you have the 2.0-liter EcoBoost engine. Both are genuine Ford filters, though aftermarket equivalents from Motorcraft, Fram, and Bosch are widely available at auto parts stores.

The cartridge design means you're replacing just the filter element itself, not a spin-on canister. This matters because the replacement process is different from older Explorer models — you'll be removing a cap and dropping out the old filter element rather than unscrewing a whole filter housing. The canister stays in place on your engine.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2017 Explorer's oil filter is a cartridge type mounted on top of the engine, with part number FL-2051S for 3.5L engines or FL-400 for 2.0L engines.
  • You replace only the filter element, not the entire housing, which sits permanently on the engine.
  • The replacement process involves removing a cap, taking out the old element, and installing a new one with a fresh rubber seal.
  • Changing the filter takes about 10 to 15 minutes once you have the correct part and a filter wrench or socket.

What you need to gather before you start

Have the correct filter element on hand before you open the engine bay. Double-check your engine size on your registration or by looking at the engine itself — the displacement is usually stamped on the valve cover. You'll also need an oil filter socket or a 74-millimeter wrench to remove the canister cap. Many auto parts stores loan filter sockets for free if you buy the filter from them, or you can buy one for $10 to $20.

Gather a drain pan or old towels to catch oil that will spill from the canister when you remove the cap — there's always some residual oil in the housing. A new rubber seal comes with the replacement filter element, so you don't need to buy one separately. Some people also use a small brush or rag to clean the canister interior before installing the new element.

Step-by-step replacement process

Start with the engine cold. Locate the filter canister on top of the engine — it's a black plastic cylinder about 4 inches tall. Position your drain pan underneath it. Use the filter socket or wrench to turn the canister cap counterclockwise and remove it. The old filter element will come out with the cap or will drop into the canister.

Remove the old rubber seal from the cap and discard it. Wipe the inside of the canister with a clean rag to remove any debris or old oil residue. Take the new filter element and install the fresh rubber seal that came with it — this seal is critical for preventing oil leaks. Drop the new element into the canister, making sure it sits flat on the bottom. Screw the cap back on by hand first, then use your socket or wrench to tighten it snugly. Do not over-tighten; hand-tight plus a quarter turn is usually enough.

Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds, then turn it off. Wait a minute and check the oil level on the dipstick — you may need to top off a quart or so depending on how much oil remained in the old filter. The job is complete once the engine has run and the oil level is correct.

Common mistakes to avoid

The most frequent error is forgetting to replace the rubber seal on the cap before reinstalling it. The old seal hardens over time and won't seal properly, leading to oil leaks. Always remove the old seal and install the new one that comes with the filter element.

Another mistake is over-tightening the cap. The canister is plastic and can crack if you use a wrench with too much force. Hand-tighten the cap first, then use the wrench for just a quarter turn more. If you feel strong resistance, stop — you've tightened enough.

Some owners also forget to check the oil level after the first run. The new filter element holds a small amount of oil, so your dipstick reading will drop slightly. Top off if needed to keep the level between the minimum and maximum marks.

Where to buy the correct filter

Auto parts chains like AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, and NAPA all stock both the genuine Ford FL-2051S and FL-400 filters and their aftermarket equivalents. Online retailers like Amazon and RockAuto also carry them, often at lower prices, though you'll wait for shipping. Dealerships stock genuine Ford filters but typically charge more than independent retailers.

If you're unsure which filter your specific Explorer needs, bring your vehicle identification number (VIN) to any auto parts store and they'll look it up for you. The VIN is on your registration and on a plate on the driver's side dashboard. This takes two minutes and removes any guesswork about engine size.

How often to replace the filter

Ford recommends replacing the oil filter every time you change the oil. For a 2017 Explorer, that's typically every 10,000 miles under normal driving conditions, or every 5,000 miles if you drive in severe conditions like towing, frequent short trips, or dusty environments. Check your owner's manual for the specific interval for your driving habits.

Some owners stretch intervals to 15,000 miles using synthetic oil, which lasts longer than conventional oil. If you do this, the filter should still be replaced at the same interval as the oil — never run a filter longer than the oil it's protecting.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use an aftermarket filter instead of the genuine Ford part?

Yes. Fram, Bosch, Motorcraft, and other major brands make filters that fit the 2017 Explorer and meet Ford's specifications. Aftermarket filters are usually cheaper and work just as well. The key is matching the correct part number to your engine size.

What if oil leaks from the canister after I replace the filter?

The most common cause is a missing or improperly seated rubber seal. Remove the cap, check that the new seal is in place and sitting flat, and reinstall it. If the seal is there and tight, the canister itself may be cracked — this is rare but can happen if the cap was over-tightened previously.

Do I need to drain the oil before replacing the filter?

No. The filter replacement is separate from an oil change. You can replace just the filter without draining the oil. However, if you're doing both at the same time, drain the oil first, then replace the filter.

How tight should the canister cap be?

Hand-tighten the cap until the rubber seal contacts the canister, then use a wrench to turn it about a quarter turn more. You should not need significant force. If the cap is hard to turn, you've tightened enough — stop and don't force it further.