What Oil Filter Your 2015 Accord Uses

Your 2015 Honda Accord takes a Honda OEM filter HF204 or an equivalent aftermarket filter that matches the same specifications. The filter is a cartridge type — it screws directly onto the engine block rather than being a spin-on canister — which means the replacement process differs slightly from cars with traditional threaded filters.

You can find the correct filter by checking your owner's manual, asking at any Honda dealership parts counter, or searching for "2015 Honda Accord oil filter" at an auto parts retailer like AutoZone, O'Reilly, or NAPA. When you search online, make sure the year, make, and model all match exactly, because Honda used different filters across model years and trim levels.

The HF204 costs between $8 and $15 at most retailers, though OEM Honda filters from a dealership run slightly higher. Aftermarket brands like Fram, Mobil 1, and Purolator all make compatible replacements at similar price points.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2015 Accord uses a cartridge-style oil filter (HF204 or equivalent), not a spin-on canister, so you will need a filter wrench designed for cartridge filters.
  • The filter housing is located on top of the engine and requires you to remove a large plastic cap before accessing the filter element inside.
  • You will need an oil drain pan, a cartridge filter wrench, a new crush washer, and fresh oil to complete the job.
  • The entire process takes 15 to 25 minutes if you have done it before, or 30 to 45 minutes if this is your first time.

Locating the Filter Housing on Your Engine

Open your hood and look toward the center-back of the engine, slightly to the driver's side. You will see a large black plastic cap with a wrench symbol molded into the top — this is the oil filter housing cap. It sits directly above where the filter cartridge is stored inside the engine block.

The cap is roughly 3 inches in diameter and has a center bolt running through it. This is the only part you will remove to access the filter; the housing itself stays bolted to the engine. If you cannot locate it when ready, trace the oil drain plug (which is on the bottom of the engine) upward — the filter housing is almost always directly above it.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

Gather these items before you start: an oil drain pan (at least 5 quarts capacity), a cartridge oil filter wrench (a socket-style tool that fits over the housing cap), a socket wrench or adjustable wrench to fit the center bolt, a new crush washer (usually comes with the replacement filter), the correct replacement filter, and fresh oil in the grade your manual specifies.

Do not use a spin-on filter wrench or a regular oil filter socket — those are designed for different filter types and will not fit the Accord's cartridge housing. A cartridge filter wrench looks like a deep socket with a slot or notch cut into the side, and costs $8 to $15 at any auto parts store.

If you do not have an oil drain pan, you can use a large, shallow container like a cake pan or a plastic storage tub, though a proper drain pan makes cleanup easier. Have rags or paper towels nearby to catch spills around the housing cap.

Step-by-Step Filter Replacement

Step 1: Warm the engine slightly. Run the engine for 30 seconds to a minute so the oil warms up and flows more easily. Do not let it run long enough to get hot — you just want the oil to be thinner. Turn the engine off and wait two minutes before proceeding.

Step 2: Position your drain pan. Place the oil drain pan directly under the filter housing cap. When you unscrew the cap, some oil will drip out, so position the pan to catch it.

Step 3: Remove the housing cap. Use your cartridge filter wrench to unscrew the large black cap by turning it counterclockwise. It will be snug but not extremely tight — if you are struggling, make sure the wrench is seated fully over the cap. As you unscrew it, oil will begin to drip into the pan below.

Step 4: Remove the old filter and crush washer. Once the cap is off, you will see the cylindrical filter cartridge inside. Lift it straight up and out of the housing. Below it sits a rubber crush washer — remove this as well and discard it. Do not reuse the old crush washer.

Step 5: Clean the housing interior. Wipe the inside of the housing with a clean rag to remove any debris or old oil residue. Pay attention to the rubber seal at the bottom of the housing — make sure it is clean and undamaged.

Step 6: Install the new filter and crush washer. Place the new crush washer onto the center bolt inside the housing. Then insert the new filter cartridge straight down into the housing, making sure it seats fully. The filter should sit flat against the bottom of the housing with no gaps.

Step 7: Reinstall the housing cap. Screw the cap back on by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Once it is hand-tight, use your wrench to tighten it an additional three-quarter turn. Do not over-tighten — the crush washer only needs moderate pressure to seal properly.

Step 8: Check for leaks. Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds. Look under the filter housing cap for any drips. If you see oil leaking from under the cap, turn off the engine, wait a minute, and tighten the cap another quarter turn. Restart and check again.

What to Do With the Old Filter and Drained Oil

The old filter cartridge can go in your regular trash, though some people prefer to recycle it. The drained oil, however, must be disposed of properly — never pour it down a drain or into the ground. Most auto parts stores that sell oil will take used oil for free, even if you did not buy it from them. Some gas stations and quick-lube shops also accept used oil at no charge.

If you have a large amount of used oil, check your city or county's hazardous waste collection schedule — many communities hold collection days where you can drop off oil, batteries, and other automotive fluids for free.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most frequent error is forgetting to replace the crush washer. If you reinstall the cap without a new washer, the seal will not be tight and oil will leak. The old washer loses its ability to compress after one use, so it must be replaced every time you change the filter.

Another common mistake is over-tightening the housing cap. The cartridge filter design relies on the crush washer to seal, not on brute force. Tightening too hard can damage the rubber seal inside the housing and cause leaks that are harder to fix. Hand-tight plus three-quarter turn is the correct amount.

Some people also confuse the oil drain plug (on the bottom of the engine) with the filter housing cap (on top). If you are changing only the filter and not the oil, you do not touch the drain plug. The filter housing cap is the only thing you remove.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to change the oil every time I change the filter?

No. You can change the filter without changing the oil, though most people do both at the same time since you are already under the hood. Check your owner's manual for the recommended oil change interval — most 2015 Accords use 7,500 to 10,000 miles between oil changes.

What if I cannot get the housing cap to unscrew?

Make sure your cartridge filter wrench is fully seated over the cap and not slipping. If it is still stuck, try tapping the wrench gently with a rubber mallet to help break the seal. If the cap remains stuck after that, you may need a longer wrench for more leverage, or you can take the car to a shop rather than risk stripping the cap.

Can I use any aftermarket filter, or does it have to be Honda brand?

Any filter that matches the HF204 specifications will work. Honda OEM filters are reliable, but Fram, Mobil 1, Purolator, and other major brands make equivalent cartridge filters that perform just as well and cost less. The key is matching the part number, not the brand name.

How do I know if the filter is installed correctly?

The filter cartridge should sit flat and flush inside the housing with no gaps or tilting. When you screw the cap back on, it should thread smoothly without resistance. After you start the engine, check under the cap for leaks within the first minute — a properly installed filter will not drip.

Is there a crush washer inside the new filter, or do I need to buy one separately?

Most replacement filters come with a crush washer included in the box. Check the packaging before you buy to confirm. If it does not come with one, you will need to purchase a crush washer separately — they cost $2 to $5 and are available at any auto parts store.