The 2015 Cruze oil filter location and part number

The oil filter on a 2015 Chevy Cruze sits on the driver's side of the engine, mounted vertically on the engine block itself. You'll find it below the intake manifold, roughly in line with the middle of the engine bay when you're looking from above. The filter is a cylindrical cartridge about 3 inches tall, and it's held in place by a single center bolt that threads into the engine.

The factory part number for the 2015 Cruze oil filter is GM 25183884. This is the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) filter that came on the vehicle. You can order this directly from a Chevy dealer, or you can use equivalent aftermarket filters from Fram, Mobil 1, Bosch, or Purolator — all of which are designed to fit the same mounting location and thread size. The filter costs between $8 and $15 depending on the brand and where you buy it.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2015 Cruze oil filter is mounted vertically on the driver's side of the engine block, below the intake manifold.
  • The factory part number is GM 25183884, though aftermarket equivalents from Fram, Mobil 1, Bosch, and Purolator will fit the same location.
  • You will need a 74mm oil filter socket (or a strap wrench) and a ratchet to remove the old filter, plus a new crush washer for the drain plug.
  • The entire oil and filter change takes 20 to 30 minutes if you have the tools and a safe place to work underneath the vehicle.

Tools and supplies you'll need

Before you start, gather the correct tools so you don't have to stop halfway through. You need a 74mm oil filter socket (this is the size that fits the Cruze's filter housing) and a ratchet wrench to turn it. If you don't have a filter socket, a strap wrench will work instead — it grips the filter by friction rather than by teeth. You'll also need an oil drain pan large enough to hold at least 5 quarts, since the Cruze holds about 4.5 quarts of oil plus filter.

Pick up a new crush washer for the drain plug — this is a small copper or aluminum ring that seals the drain plug to the pan. Even though the old washer might look fine, replacing it prevents leaks. You'll also want jack stands and a jack if you need to lift the vehicle to get underneath it safely, or ramps if you have them. A socket set with a 17mm socket will let you remove the drain plug. Finally, have some shop towels or old rags ready, because this job is messy.

How to remove the old filter

Start with the engine cold or warm but not hot — you don't want to burn yourself on hot oil. Position your drain pan under the filter, then use your 74mm filter socket and ratchet to turn the filter counterclockwise. Turn it slowly at first, because oil will still be inside the filter housing. Once the filter breaks free, unscrew it by hand the rest of the way and tip it into the drain pan so the remaining oil drains out.

Before you install the new filter, wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine block with a clean rag. Any old rubber or debris left behind can cause leaks. Look at the rubber gasket on the new filter — it should be dry and flexible. Rub a thin film of new oil around the gasket (use a few drops from your new oil jug), then screw the new filter on by hand. Tighten it until the gasket just touches the mounting surface, then turn it another three-quarters of a turn. Do not use the filter socket to tighten it — hand-tight is correct.

Draining and replacing the oil

While the filter drains, move to the oil drain plug on the bottom of the pan. It's a 17mm bolt located on the lowest point of the oil pan, toward the front of the vehicle. Position your drain pan underneath it, then use your socket and ratchet to turn the plug counterclockwise. Once it's loose enough, carefully unscrew it by hand and let it fall into the drain pan — the oil will be hot if the engine was recently running.

Let the old oil drain completely, which takes 5 to 10 minutes. While you wait, inspect the drain plug for damage. If the threads look stripped or the bolt is bent, you may need a replacement, but most drain plugs last the life of the vehicle. Once the oil has stopped dripping, install the new crush washer on the drain plug, then screw the plug back in by hand. Tighten it with your socket and ratchet until it's snug — not so tight that you strip the threads, but tight enough that it won't leak.

Filling with new oil and checking the level

The 2015 Cruze holds 4.5 quarts of oil with a filter change. Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine — it's a large plastic cap with an oil can symbol on it. Unscrew it and set it aside, then place a funnel in the opening. Pour in 4 quarts of the correct oil for your engine (check your owner's manual for the viscosity, usually 0W-20 or 5W-30), then replace the cap.

Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds to circulate the new oil through the filter, then turn it off and wait 2 minutes for the oil to settle. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean on a rag, reinsert it fully, then pull it out again to check the level. The oil should be between the minimum and maximum marks. If it's low, add a little more oil and check again. Once the level is correct, you're finished.

When to change the oil and filter

Chevy recommends an oil change every 7,500 miles or 6 months for the 2015 Cruze, whichever comes first. If you drive mostly on highways at steady speeds, you may be able to go longer between changes — some owners report going 10,000 miles without issues. If you drive in stop-and-go traffic, tow a trailer, or drive in very hot or very cold climates, stick to the 7,500-mile interval. Your oil life monitor on the dashboard will also alert you when service is due.

Keep records of each oil change, including the date, mileage, and oil type you used. This helps you spot patterns and makes it easier to sell the vehicle later, since buyers value documented maintenance. If you're unsure whether you're due for a change, checking the oil level with the dipstick takes 30 seconds and costs nothing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change the oil filter without draining the oil?

Yes, you can change just the filter without draining the oil, though you'll lose a small amount of oil that's trapped in the filter housing. Most people change the filter and oil together because the labor is the same and fresh oil is cheap compared to the cost of an engine. If you're only changing the filter between full oil changes, expect to lose about half a quart.

What happens if I overtighten the oil filter?

Overtightening the filter can damage the rubber gasket and cause leaks, or it can strip the threads on the filter housing itself. If the housing threads are damaged, you'll need a new filter adapter, which is an expensive repair. Hand-tight plus three-quarters of a turn is the correct method — if you use a filter socket to tighten it, you'll almost certainly overtighten it.

Do I need to replace the crush washer on the drain plug every time?

Yes, replacing the crush washer is the best practice. A used washer loses its ability to seal properly and can cause slow leaks that go unnoticed until oil has dripped all over your driveway or engine. Crush washers cost less than a dollar, so there's no reason to reuse one.

What should I do with the old oil?

Never pour old oil down the drain or into the ground — it's toxic and illegal in most places. Take it to a recycling center, an auto parts store that accepts used oil, or a quick-lube shop. Many of these places take it for free, and some will even pay you a small amount if you bring in large quantities.

Is synthetic oil better for the 2015 Cruze?

Synthetic oil lasts longer between changes — typically 10,000 miles instead of 7,500 — but it costs more per quart. Conventional oil is fine for the Cruze and is what Chevy recommends unless your owner's manual specifies synthetic. If you use synthetic, you can extend your change interval, which may save money over time depending on how much you drive.