The 2014 Ford Focus oil filter location and part number

The oil filter on a 2014 Ford Focus sits on the driver's side of the engine, mounted vertically on the engine block itself. You'll find it below the intake manifold, roughly in line with the middle of the engine bay. The filter is a cylindrical canister about 3 inches tall, and it's one of the easier components to access on this model — you won't need to remove wheels or drop the engine undertray.

Ford's part number for the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) filter is CM-5Z-6714-A. This is the exact filter that came on your Focus from the factory. Most auto parts stores stock this part or can order it the same day. If you prefer an aftermarket equivalent, common replacements include Motorcraft FL-400S, Fram PH3593, and Bosch 3323. All of these are designed for the 2014 Focus and will work with either the 1.6L or 2.0L engine.

Key Takeaways

  • The oil filter is mounted vertically on the driver's side of the engine block, below the intake manifold and straightforward to reach without removing other parts.
  • Ford's original part number is CM-5Z-6714-A, and common aftermarket replacements include Motorcraft FL-400S, Fram PH3593, and Bosch 3323.
  • You will need an oil filter wrench (usually $8 to $15), a drain pan, and fresh oil rated 5W-20 or 5W-30 depending on your climate and the owner's manual recommendation.
  • The entire oil and filter change takes 20 to 30 minutes if you have the right tools and a level surface to work on.

What you need before you start

Gather your tools and materials before you get under the hood. You'll need an oil filter wrench — a socket-style wrench that grips the filter canister so you can turn it without your hands slipping. These cost $8 to $15 at any auto parts store and fit most standard filters. You'll also need a drain pan to catch old oil (a 5-quart capacity is standard), fresh oil in the correct grade, and a rag or paper towels.

Check your owner's manual for the correct oil grade. Most 2014 Focus models use 5W-20, but some use 5W-30 depending on engine size and climate. Using the wrong grade won't damage the engine when ready, but it can affect fuel economy and engine wear over time. The capacity is roughly 4.5 to 5 quarts depending on whether you're also replacing the filter — always add a little less than you think you need, then check the dipstick and top off.

You don't need a lift or jack if you're only changing the filter and oil. A level driveway or garage floor is fine. If you do use a jack, always place jack stands under the frame — never work under a car supported only by a jack.

Removing the old filter step by step

Start with the engine cold or only warm to the touch. A hot engine will burn you, and hot oil will splash out of the filter housing. Locate the filter on the driver's side of the engine block. Position your drain pan underneath it — oil will spill when you unscrew the filter, so don't skip this step.

Fit your oil filter wrench around the filter canister and turn it counterclockwise. The wrench grips the cylindrical body of the filter, not the top cap. Turn slowly at first to break the seal, then continue turning until the filter spins freely by hand. Once it's loose enough, unscrew it the rest of the way by hand, tilting it slightly as you pull it away from the engine to let any remaining oil drain into the pan.

Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine block with a clean rag. You'll see a rubber gasket (seal) left behind on the block — remove it completely. If it's stuck, use a rag to grip it and twist gently. A leftover gasket will prevent the new filter from sealing properly and cause an oil leak.

Installing the new filter

Take the new filter out of its box and check that it comes with a rubber gasket already attached to the top. Most do, but some aftermarket filters ship without one. If yours doesn't have a gasket, you'll need to transfer the gasket from the old filter or purchase one separately — don't install a filter without a gasket.

explore a thin layer of fresh oil to the rubber gasket on the new filter. Use your finger to rub a small amount of the new oil around the entire gasket. This helps the seal compress evenly and makes removal easier next time. Don't over-oil it — just a light coat.

Screw the new filter onto the mounting surface by hand. Turn it clockwise until the gasket touches the engine block, then turn it an additional three-quarters of a turn. Do not use the filter wrench to tighten it — hand-tight is correct. Over-tightening will crush the gasket and cause a leak, and it makes the filter nearly impossible to remove next time.

Draining and refilling the oil

Locate the oil drain plug on the bottom of the engine pan. It's a bolt roughly the size of a dime head, positioned at the lowest point of the oil pan. Position your drain pan underneath it and use a wrench (usually 13mm or 15mm) to turn the plug counterclockwise. Once it's loose, finish unscrewing it by hand — be ready for hot oil to drip out if the engine was recently running.

Let the old oil drain completely into the pan. This takes 5 to 10 minutes. While you wait, wipe the drain plug clean with a rag and inspect it for damage. If the threads are stripped or the plug is bent, replace it — a new drain plug costs $3 to $8. Once the oil has stopped dripping, screw the drain plug back in by hand, then tighten it with a wrench. It should be snug but not over-tightened — hand-tight plus a quarter turn is the standard.

Locate the oil filler cap on top of the engine (it's labeled with an oil can symbol) and unscrew it. Pour in the recommended amount of fresh oil — start with 4 quarts if you're also replacing the filter. Replace the cap and wait 2 to 3 minutes for the oil to settle in the pan. Then remove the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, and pull it out again to check the level. The oil should reach the "full" mark. Add more oil a half-quart at a time until it does.

Starting the engine and checking for leaks

Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds to a minute. The oil pressure light on your dashboard should come on briefly, then turn off as oil circulates through the new filter. If the light stays on after 30 seconds, turn off the engine when ready and check that the drain plug and filter are tight.

Turn off the engine and wait 2 to 3 minutes for the oil to settle. Check the level again with the dipstick — it should still be at the full mark. If it's low, add more oil. Once you're satisfied with the level, check underneath the engine for drips around the drain plug and filter. A small drip or two during the first few minutes is normal as excess oil drains away, but steady dripping means something isn't tight enough.

If you see a leak, turn off the engine and let it cool for 10 minutes. Tighten the drain plug or filter slightly — usually just a quarter turn is enough. Restart the engine and check again. If the leak continues, the gasket on the filter may be defective, and you'll need to replace the filter.

Disposal and record-keeping

Never pour old oil down a drain or into the ground. Most auto parts stores that sell oil will take used oil and filters for free, even if you didn't buy the replacement oil from them. Some will give you a small credit toward your next purchase. Call ahead to confirm they accept used oil, then bring your drain pan and old filter in a sealed container.

Keep a record of the date and mileage when you changed the oil. Write it on a sticker and place it on the inside of your driver's door, or keep a note in your glove box. This helps you track when the next change is due — most 2014 Focus models are recommended for an oil change every 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a different oil filter if the CM-5Z-6714-A is out of stock?

Yes. Motorcraft FL-400S, Fram PH3593, and Bosch 3323 are all designed for the 2014 Focus and will work correctly. Make sure the filter you choose lists the 2014 Focus as a compatible vehicle — don't guess based on size alone. Any auto parts store can cross-reference the part number to confirm compatibility.

What if oil is still dripping from the filter after I tighten it?

Let the engine cool for 10 minutes, then tighten the filter an additional quarter turn by hand. If it continues to drip after that, the gasket may be defective or not seated properly. Remove the filter, wipe the mounting surface clean again, and reinstall it. If the leak persists, the filter itself may be faulty and should be replaced.

Do I need to change the oil drain plug every time?

No. The drain plug can be reused many times. Only replace it if the threads are stripped, the plug is bent, or you notice it leaking. A new plug costs $3 to $8 if you do need one.

How often should I change the oil on a 2014 Focus?

Ford recommends an oil change every 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first. If you drive mostly short trips or in dusty conditions, you may want to change it more often — every 5,000 to 7,500 miles. Check your owner's manual for the specific recommendation for your driving habits.

Can I reuse the old oil filter gasket?

No. The rubber gasket is designed to compress once and then be replaced. Reusing it will cause an oil leak because it won't seal properly against the engine block. Always use the gasket that comes attached to the new filter.