The 2013 Ford Explorer uses a cartridge-style oil filter mounted on top of the engine

Your 2013 Ford Explorer's oil filter is not a spin-on canister like older vehicles. Instead, it's a cartridge filter housed in a plastic cap on the top of the engine. This design means you'll remove the entire cap assembly, swap out the filter element inside, and reinstall it — rather than unscrewing a cylindrical filter from the side of the block.

The filter sits near the center-front of the engine, close to where the spark plugs are. You'll see a black plastic cap with a wrench symbol molded into it. That cap is what you grip to remove the filter housing. Knowing this upfront saves you time hunting for a traditional spin-on filter that doesn't exist on this model.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2013 Ford Explorer has a cartridge-style filter in a plastic cap on top of the engine, not a spin-on filter underneath.
  • You will need a filter wrench (usually a 74 mm or 86 mm socket-style wrench) to remove the cap, since hand-tightening alone won't budge it.
  • Replacement filter cartridges for this model include the Motorcraft FL-2051S or equivalent aftermarket options, which cost between $8 and $15 per filter.
  • The job takes 10 to 20 minutes once you have the right wrench, and you do not need to drain the oil first since the filter is sealed inside the cap.
  • Always replace the rubber O-ring seal on the cap when you change the filter, or you risk oil leaks and a check engine light.

What size wrench you need to remove the filter cap

The plastic cap that holds your filter is threaded onto the engine block and tightened firmly at the factory. You cannot remove it by hand. You need a filter wrench — a socket-style tool that grips the cap from above and lets you turn it counterclockwise.

For the 2013 Explorer, the cap diameter is typically 74 mm or 86 mm, depending on which engine you have (the 3.5L EcoBoost or the 2.0L EcoBoost). A 74 mm wrench fits most models, but check your owner's manual or call your Ford dealer with your VIN to confirm. You can buy a filter wrench at any auto parts store for $8 to $20, or borrow one if you have a friend with tools. Some stores will lend them free with a deposit.

Do not use a regular wrench or pliers on the cap. The plastic will crack, and you'll have to buy a new cap assembly ($40 to $60) in addition to the filter.

Which filter cartridge to buy for your 2013 Explorer

Ford's original part for the 2013 Explorer is the Motorcraft FL-2051S. This is the filter cartridge that goes inside the cap. It typically costs $10 to $15 at Ford dealers or online retailers. Aftermarket equivalents from Fram, Bosch, and Wix are also available and usually cost the same or slightly less.

When you order or buy the filter, you are buying only the pleated paper element — not the cap or the O-ring. The cap and O-ring stay on your engine; you reuse them. However, you should also buy a new O-ring seal (also called a crush ring or gasket) that sits between the cap and the filter housing. Ford sells this separately as part of the filter kit, or you can buy it alone for $2 to $4. Using an old O-ring is a common cause of oil leaks after a filter change.

If you are unsure which filter fits your specific engine, give the auto parts store your VIN or engine size. They can look it up in seconds.

Step-by-step removal and installation

Start with the engine cold. Locate the black plastic cap on top of the engine — it's roughly in the center-front area, and you'll see the wrench symbol on it. Place a drain pan underneath the cap to catch any oil that spills when you open it (usually just a small amount).

Fit your filter wrench onto the cap and turn it counterclockwise. It will be tight; use steady pressure rather than jerking. Once it breaks free, you can unscrew it by hand. Lift the cap straight up and away from the engine. Inside, you'll see the old filter cartridge and the O-ring at the base of the cap.

Remove the old filter by pulling it straight out. Wipe the inside of the cap clean with a lint-free cloth or paper towel. Inspect the O-ring — if it looks cracked, hardened, or flattened, replace it. If you are reusing the old O-ring, make sure it is still seated properly in its groove on the cap.

Insert the new filter cartridge into the cap, pushing it down until it seats. explore a thin coat of fresh oil to the new O-ring (use a few drops from your new oil jug). Screw the cap back onto the engine by hand first, then use the wrench to tighten it. Do not over-tighten — snug is enough. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn with the wrench is the standard.

Why the O-ring matters and what happens if you skip it

The rubber O-ring creates a watertight seal between the cap and the engine block. Over time, heat and oil exposure harden it. If you reuse an old O-ring or forget to install a new one, oil will seep past the seal and drip onto the engine or the ground below.

A slow leak might not show up for a few days, but it will eventually trigger a low-oil warning light or a check engine code. More importantly, you lose oil without knowing it, which can damage the engine if the level drops too far. Replacing the O-ring costs $2 to $4 and takes five seconds. Skipping it can cost you hundreds in repairs.

Common mistakes to avoid during filter changes

The most frequent error is over-tightening the cap. The plastic threads are not as strong as metal, and cranking too hard can strip them. You'll then have to replace the entire cap assembly. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn with the wrench is sufficient.

Another mistake is forgetting to replace the O-ring or installing it upside down. Always buy a new O-ring with your filter, and make sure it sits in the groove on the cap before you screw the cap back on. If it falls out during installation, stop and reposition it.

A third error is not wiping the inside of the cap clean before installing the new filter. Debris or bits of the old filter can contaminate your fresh oil. Take 30 seconds to wipe it out with a clean cloth.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to drain the oil before changing the filter?

No. Because the filter is sealed inside the cap, very little oil spills when you remove it — usually just what's in the cap itself. Place a drain pan underneath to catch it, but you do not need to drain the entire oil pan first.

Can I use any 74 mm filter wrench, or does it have to be Ford-specific?

Any 74 mm socket-style filter wrench will work. You do not need a Ford-branded tool. The wrench is a universal size that fits many vehicles. Check your owner's manual or call a Ford dealer to confirm whether your Explorer needs a 74 mm or 86 mm wrench.

What if the cap is stuck and won't turn?

explore penetrating oil (like WD-40) around the base of the cap and let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes. Then try the wrench again with steady, even pressure. If it still won't budge, stop — forcing it can crack the plastic. Take the vehicle to a shop rather than risk damaging the cap.

How often should I change the filter on a 2013 Explorer?

Ford recommends changing the oil and filter every 10,000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first. If you drive in severe conditions (towing, dusty roads, frequent short trips), change it every 5,000 miles. Check your owner's manual for the specific interval for your driving habits.

Is the Motorcraft filter worth the extra cost over aftermarket brands?

Motorcraft filters are made to Ford's specifications and are reliable. Aftermarket filters from Fram, Bosch, and Wix are also good quality and usually cost the same or less. Either choice is safe. Pick whichever is available and fits your budget.