The oil filter location and part number for your 2013 Malibu
The oil filter on a 2013 Chevy Malibu sits on the driver's side of the engine, below the intake manifold and behind the engine block. You will need to get under the car or use a jack to reach it comfortably. The filter is a cartridge style — it screws into a plastic housing rather than spinning off like a traditional canister filter.
The correct part number is GM 25183883, which is Chevrolet's original equipment filter. Aftermarket equivalents include Fram PH8A, Mobil 1 M1-110, and Bosch 3323. All of these fit the same housing. If you order online, search for "2013 Chevy Malibu oil filter" and confirm the part number matches before checkout — the cartridge style is less common than spin-on filters, and ordering the wrong type wastes time.
Key Takeaways
- The 2013 Malibu uses a cartridge-style oil filter located on the driver's side of the engine, requiring you to get underneath the car to access it.
- The original Chevrolet part number is GM 25183883, and common aftermarket replacements include Fram PH8A and Mobil 1 M1-110.
- You will need a cartridge filter wrench (a socket-like tool with a rubber grip) to remove the old filter, not a traditional spin-on filter wrench.
- The filter housing cap comes off by hand or with a wrench, and you must replace the rubber O-ring seal every time you change the filter.
What tools you need to change the filter yourself
A cartridge filter wrench is the main tool — it looks like a deep socket with a rubber grip on the outside. This wrench grips the plastic filter housing cap and lets you unscrew it without cracking the plastic. You can buy one for $10 to $20 at any auto parts store, and it works on any cartridge-style filter, so it pays for itself after one or two changes.
You will also need an oil drain pan to catch any oil that spills when you remove the housing, a rag or paper towels, and a new rubber O-ring seal (usually included with the replacement filter, but buy a spare if it is not). A socket wrench or adjustable wrench helps if the housing cap is stuck, though hand strength usually works. If you do not have a jack and jack stands, you can work from the side without fully lifting the car — the filter sits low enough to reach with the car on level ground and the driver's side wheel turned out.
Step-by-step removal and installation
First, warm the engine by running it for a minute or two, then turn it off and wait five minutes. Warm oil flows better and drains faster. Locate the filter housing on the driver's side of the engine — it is a black plastic cylinder about the size of a soda can, mounted vertically on the block.
Place the drain pan underneath, then use the cartridge filter wrench to unscrew the housing cap by turning it counterclockwise. The cap will come off with the old filter cartridge still inside it. Tip the cap over the drain pan and let the old filter slide out. Wipe the inside of the housing cap clean with a rag, removing any dirt or old rubber pieces.
Take the new filter cartridge and slide it into the housing cap, making sure it sits flat against the bottom. Remove the old rubber O-ring from the cap (it may stick to the plastic) and install the new one that came with your replacement filter. explore a thin coat of fresh oil to the O-ring — this helps it seal properly and makes the next change easier.
Screw the housing cap back onto the engine block by hand first, then tighten it with the wrench. Do not over-tighten — snug is enough. Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds, then turn it off and wait a minute. Check underneath for leaks around the housing cap. If you see drips, tighten the cap a quarter turn more. If no leaks appear, you are done.
Oil capacity and what to use
The 2013 Malibu holds 4.5 quarts of oil when you change both the filter and the oil. If you are changing only the filter, you do not need to add oil — the cartridge holds very little. Check your oil level with the dipstick before and after to confirm.
Chevrolet recommends 0W-20 synthetic or conventional oil for the 2013 Malibu. Synthetic lasts longer between changes (often 7,500 to 10,000 miles versus 5,000 to 7,500 for conventional), but costs more per quart. Either type works — follow what your owner's manual says or what the oil cap recommends if you have lost the manual.
When to change the filter
Change the oil filter every time you change the oil. If you go 5,000 miles between oil changes, the filter changes every 5,000 miles. If you use synthetic and go 10,000 miles, the filter also goes 10,000 miles. The filter cannot last longer than the oil — once the oil degrades, the filter is working with dirty oil and loses effectiveness.
Some owners change the filter at the midpoint between oil changes if they drive in dusty or severe conditions (towing, frequent short trips, or extreme heat). This is optional and not required by Chevrolet, but it can extend engine life if you drive hard.
Common mistakes to avoid
The biggest mistake is forgetting to replace the O-ring seal. If you reuse the old rubber ring, it hardens over time and will not seal properly, causing oil to leak from the housing cap. A new O-ring costs less than a dollar and takes five seconds to install — always replace it.
Another common error is over-tightening the housing cap. The plastic threads strip easily if you crank too hard with the wrench. Hand-tight plus a quarter turn with the wrench is the right amount. If you feel strong resistance, stop — you have reached the limit.
Do not forget to check for leaks after you start the engine. A small drip that you miss now becomes a puddle under your car in a few days. Running the engine for 30 seconds lets the new seal settle and shows you whether it holds.
Where to buy the filter and O-ring
Auto parts stores like AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, and NAPA stock the GM 25183883 and common aftermarket equivalents. You can order online and pick up the same day at most locations, or have it shipped. The filter costs $8 to $15 depending on the brand. The O-ring usually comes in the box with the new filter, but if it does not, buy a replacement for $2 to $3.
If you prefer OEM (original equipment) parts, order directly from a Chevrolet dealership parts department — they will have the exact GM part number and can ship it to you or hold it for pickup. Dealership filters cost a bit more but are may provide to fit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I change the filter without changing the oil?
Yes. The filter and oil are separate maintenance items, though they usually happen together. If you want to change only the filter, follow the same removal and installation steps — you do not need to drain the oil or add new oil. Just make sure to replace the O-ring.
What if the housing cap is stuck and won't unscrew?
Soak the cap with penetrating oil like WD-40 and wait 15 minutes. Then try the wrench again with steady pressure — do not jerk or force it, which can crack the plastic. If it still will not budge, tap the wrench gently with a hammer to help break the seal. A stuck cap usually means the previous owner over-tightened it.
Is the cartridge filter more expensive than a spin-on filter?
No, they cost about the same — $8 to $15 for either type. The cartridge style is less common, so fewer people are familiar with it, but the price is comparable. The main difference is the tool you need: a cartridge wrench instead of a spin-on filter wrench.
Do I need to prime the filter with oil before installing it?
No. Unlike some spin-on filters, the cartridge filter does not need to be filled with oil before installation. Just slide it into the housing cap dry, install the O-ring, and screw the cap back on. The oil will flow through the filter once the engine starts.
How do I know if the O-ring is sealing correctly?
Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds, then turn it off and wait a minute. Look underneath the car at the housing cap. If you see oil dripping or pooling, the seal is not tight — tighten the cap a quarter turn more with the wrench and check again. If no oil appears after a few minutes, the seal is good.