Where the oil filter sits on a 2013 Cruze and how to reach it

On a 2013 Chevy Cruze, the oil filter is mounted vertically on the driver's side of the engine block, below the intake manifold. You'll find it tucked between the engine and the firewall — the metal wall that separates the engine bay from the passenger cabin. This location means you'll need to work from underneath the vehicle or remove the wheel well liner to access it comfortably, depending on your height and the tools you have.

The filter itself is a cylindrical cartridge about 3 inches tall with a threaded cap on top. Unlike older spin-on filters that screw directly onto the engine, this design uses a housing that you unscrew from above, then replace the filter element inside. This matters because you cannot straightforward spin off the old filter — you must open the housing first.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2013 Cruze uses a cartridge-style filter inside a housing on the driver's side of the engine, not a spin-on filter that screws directly to the block.
  • You will need a filter wrench to unscrew the housing cap, a drain pan to catch old oil, and a new filter element plus a new rubber seal kit.
  • The job takes 15 to 30 minutes once you have the right tools and can be done in a driveway without a lift if you remove the driver's side wheel well liner.
  • Chevy recommends replacing the filter every 3,000 to 7,500 miles depending on driving conditions, and the owner's manual specifies the exact filter part number for your model year.

What filter type and part number the 2013 Cruze needs

The 2013 Chevy Cruze uses a GM cartridge oil filter, not a traditional screw-on filter. The OEM part number is GM 55596446 or GM 55596447 depending on engine size — the 1.4L turbo and 1.6L diesel use slightly different housings. Your owner's manual or the filter housing itself will tell you which one you have.

Aftermarket filters from Fram, Mobil 1, Bosch, and other brands also fit the 2013 Cruze, but they must be cartridge-style filters designed for this housing, not spin-on filters. When you buy a replacement, confirm the part fits the 2013 Cruze specifically — filter housings changed across model years and engine types. You'll also need a new rubber seal kit (usually included with the filter or sold separately as a gasket set) because the old seals harden and can leak if reused.

Tools and supplies you'll need to change the filter yourself

To replace the filter without a shop, gather a filter wrench sized for the housing cap (usually 74mm or 86mm depending on your engine), a drain pan to catch spilled oil, jack stands if you're lifting the car, ramps as an alternative to a jack, and new oil to top off after the change. You'll also want shop towels or rags, a socket set if you're removing the wheel well liner, and safety glasses.

The filter wrench is the critical tool — without it, you cannot unscrew the housing cap without stripping it. A universal cartridge filter wrench works on most housings, but measuring your cap diameter before you buy saves a return trip. Some people use a rubber strap wrench or even a piece of rubber shelf liner for grip, but a proper wrench is faster and safer.

Step-by-step process for removing and installing the new filter

First, warm the engine by running it for a minute or two, then turn it off and let it cool for five minutes — warm oil drains faster but won't burn you. Lift the car safely on ramps or a jack with stands, or work from the side if your driveway slopes. Remove the driver's side wheel well liner by unbolting the plastic clips and fasteners (usually 8 to 10 bolts), which gives you clear access to the filter housing.

Position your drain pan under the housing, then use the filter wrench to unscrew the cap counterclockwise. The old filter element and some oil will come out with it — expect about a quart of spillage. Remove the rubber seal from the cap, clean the cap threads with a rag, and inspect the housing for debris. Screw the new seal kit onto the cap (or install the new gasket if it came separate), then insert the new filter element into the housing and hand-tighten the cap until the seal contacts the housing, then turn it another three-quarters turn — do not over-tighten.

Reinstall the wheel well liner, lower the car, and refill the engine oil to the proper level using the dipstick or the electronic gauge on your dashboard. Run the engine for 30 seconds and check for leaks around the housing. If you see drips, turn off the engine, let it cool, and tighten the cap slightly more.

Oil capacity and type for the 2013 Cruze

The 2013 Chevy Cruze holds 4.5 quarts of oil for the 1.4L turbo and 1.6L diesel engines. Always check your owner's manual or the oil cap for the correct viscosity — most 2013 Cruzes use 5W-30 or 0W-30 depending on climate and engine type. Using the wrong viscosity can affect fuel economy and engine wear, so match what the manual specifies rather than guessing.

When you refill after the filter change, pour in about 4 quarts, then check the level with the dipstick or dashboard gauge. Add a half-quart at a time until you reach the full mark. Overfilling is as bad as underfilling — excess oil can damage seals and reduce engine efficiency.

Maintenance intervals and when to replace the filter

Chevy recommends an oil and filter change every 3,000 to 7,500 miles for the 2013 Cruze, depending on whether you drive in severe conditions (frequent short trips, towing, dusty roads) or normal conditions. Severe driving calls for the 3,000-mile interval; normal driving allows 7,500 miles. Your owner's manual spells out which category applies to your situation.

The filter should always be replaced at every oil change — reusing a filter defeats the purpose of changing the oil. A clogged filter restricts oil flow and can trigger the low-oil-pressure warning light. If you see that light, check the oil level first, then consider whether the filter is due.

Common mistakes to avoid when changing the filter

The most frequent error is over-tightening the housing cap, which strips the threads and causes leaks that are expensive to repair. Hand-tighten until the seal touches, then turn three-quarters of a turn — no wrench needed for that final bit. Another mistake is forgetting to replace the rubber seal kit, which leads to slow leaks that you won't notice until oil has dripped onto your driveway.

A third pitfall is not warming the oil before draining — cold oil is thick and drains slowly, leaving more old oil in the pan. A fourth is overfilling the crankcase, which can damage seals and cause the engine to burn oil. Finally, some owners skip the wheel well liner removal and try to access the filter from above, which is nearly impossible on the 2013 Cruze without removing other components — the liner removal takes 10 minutes and saves frustration.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change the oil filter without lifting the car?

You can if you're tall enough to reach under the driver's side without the car raised, but removing the wheel well liner (which requires the car to be lifted or on ramps) makes the job much easier. Most people find it worth the extra five minutes to lift the car and remove the liner rather than working blind from the side.

What happens if I use the wrong filter?

A filter designed for a different housing won't fit the 2013 Cruze's cartridge-style cap, and a spin-on filter won't work at all. Using the wrong filter can cause leaks, low oil pressure, or engine damage. Always confirm the part number matches your model year and engine size before buying.

How do I know if the filter housing is leaking?

Check for oil drips on the driveway or engine block around the housing cap after a drive. A small weep is normal for the first few minutes after starting the engine, but steady dripping means the cap is loose or the seal is damaged. Tighten the cap slightly or replace the seal kit if the leak continues.

Is it cheaper to do this myself or go to a shop?

A filter and seal kit cost $15 to $40 depending on the brand, plus $5 to $10 in oil. A shop typically charges $50 to $100 for labor plus parts. If you have the tools and a safe place to work, the DIY route saves money, but a shop handles disposal of old oil and gives you a warranty on the work.