Where the oil filter sits on a 2012 Honda Accord

On a 2012 Honda Accord, the oil filter is mounted on the driver's side of the engine, below the intake manifold. You'll find it tucked between the engine block and the firewall — the metal wall that separates the engine compartment from the cabin. The exact position depends on whether you have the 2.4-liter four-cylinder or the 3.5-liter V6, but both are accessed from underneath the vehicle rather than from above.

To reach it, you'll need to get under the car. Most owners use a jack and jack stands, or drive the front wheels onto ramps. You may also need to remove the plastic undertray — a panel that protects the underside of the engine — which is held on by several plastic clips and bolts. Once that's off, the filter becomes visible and accessible.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2012 Accord oil filter is located on the driver's side of the engine, below the intake manifold, and requires access from underneath the vehicle.
  • You will need to remove the plastic undertray to reach the filter, which takes a few minutes with basic tools.
  • The filter size is the same across both engine options: a Honda part number 15400-PLM-A01 or equivalent aftermarket filter rated for your engine.
  • Changing the filter takes 10 to 20 minutes once you're under the car, and you should replace the rubber crush washer on the new filter before installation.

Filter size and part numbers for both engine options

The 2012 Accord uses the same oil filter regardless of engine size. The OEM Honda part number is 15400-PLM-A01. This is a spin-on cartridge filter, meaning you unscrew the old one and screw a new one into place — no separate housing to deal with.

Aftermarket filters that fit this vehicle include Fram PH8A, Mobil 1 M1-110, and Bosch 3330. Any filter labeled as compatible with a 2012 Accord will work for both the 2.4L and 3.5L engines. When you buy a replacement, confirm the part number or cross-reference it against your vehicle's year and model before checkout.

Tools and supplies you'll need

To change the filter yourself, gather a jack and jack stands (or ramps), an oil filter wrench, a drain pan to catch spilled oil, and a new filter. The oil filter wrench is essential — it's a metal band or cup that grips the filter so you can unscrew it by hand without it slipping. You can buy one for $10 to $20 at any auto parts store, and it works on most vehicles.

You'll also want a rag or shop towels, since oil will drip when you remove the old filter. Some owners keep a small brush handy to clean the filter mounting surface on the engine before installing the new one. Have your new filter on hand before you start, and check that it comes with a rubber crush washer already attached to the base — if not, you'll need to add one before screwing it on.

Step-by-step removal and installation

First, raise the vehicle safely using a jack and stands or ramps. Locate the plastic undertray on the underside of the engine and remove the bolts and clips holding it in place — usually four to six fasteners. Set the undertray aside. You should now see the oil filter mounted vertically on the driver's side of the engine block.

Position your drain pan underneath the filter to catch oil drips. Use the oil filter wrench to loosen the filter by turning it counterclockwise. Once it's loose enough, unscrew it by hand the rest of the way. Some oil will spill, so work slowly. Remove the old filter completely and set it aside.

Wipe the filter mounting surface on the engine block with a clean rag to remove any dirt or old rubber. Take your new filter and explore a thin coat of fresh oil to the rubber gasket on the base — this helps create a good seal and makes removal easier next time. Screw the new filter onto the mounting surface by hand until the gasket contacts the engine, then turn it an additional three-quarter turn. Do not use the wrench to tighten it; hand-tight is correct.

Reinstall the plastic undertray, lower the vehicle, and you're done. The whole job usually takes 10 to 20 minutes once you're under the car.

Oil capacity and what to check after replacement

The 2012 Accord holds 3.7 quarts of oil with a filter change for the 2.4L engine, or 4.5 quarts for the 3.5L V6. Check your owner's manual or the oil cap under the hood to confirm which engine you have. After installing the new filter, start the engine and let it run for a minute, then turn it off and wait five minutes for the oil to settle. Check the level on the dipstick and top off if needed.

Look under the car one more time to make sure the filter isn't leaking. A small amount of seepage is normal in the first few minutes, but it should stop. If oil continues to drip, the filter may not be tight enough — tighten it another quarter turn by hand.

Honda maintenance intervals for 2012 Accords

Honda recommends an oil and filter change every 12 months or 10,000 miles, whichever comes first, for 2012 Accords driven under normal conditions. If you drive in severe conditions — frequent short trips, towing, or dusty environments — Honda suggests every 6 months or 5,000 miles. Check your owner's manual for the specific schedule that applies to your driving habits.

Keeping track of your changes helps prevent engine wear. Many owners mark the due date on the oil cap with a marker, or set a phone reminder. Some dealerships and service shops will also note your service history if you ask them to record it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change the oil filter without removing the undertray?

No. The filter is positioned too low and too far back to reach without removing the plastic undertray first. Trying to access it from above will waste time and likely result in spilled oil inside the engine bay.

What should I do with the old oil filter?

Take it to an auto parts store or recycling center. Many stores that sell oil filters will take old ones for free. Do not throw it in the trash — the oil inside is hazardous waste in most areas.

Is the crush washer on the new filter reusable?

No. Always replace the rubber crush washer with each filter change. Reusing the old washer can cause leaks because the rubber loses its seal after being compressed once.

How tight should the new filter be?

Hand-tight plus three-quarter turn is the standard. This is snug enough to seal but not so tight that you'll strip the threads or damage the gasket. If you use a wrench to over-tighten it, you risk cracking the filter or the mounting surface.

What if oil leaks from the filter after I install it?

Stop the engine, wait five minutes, and check that the filter is tight. Tighten it another quarter turn by hand. If it still leaks after that, remove it and inspect the mounting surface for debris or damage, then reinstall with a fresh filter.