Where the oil filter sits on your 2010 Civic

On a 2010 Honda Civic, the oil filter is located on the driver's side of the engine, below the intake manifold. You'll find it mounted vertically on the engine block itself — not on top of the engine where you might expect it. The filter is roughly cylindrical, about 3 inches tall, and has a hex-shaped cap on top that you grip to remove it.

The exact position depends on your engine type. If you have the 1.8-liter four-cylinder (the standard engine in most 2010 Civics), look toward the lower left side of the engine when facing the car from the front. If you have the 2.0-liter engine (found in some Si models), the filter is in a similar location but slightly more toward the center of the engine block. You may need to remove the plastic undertray or splash guard to access it easily, though many owners can reach it from above by angling their hand down.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2010 Civic oil filter is mounted vertically on the driver's side of the engine block, below the intake manifold, not on top.
  • You will need a filter wrench (typically a 74mm or 86mm size) to remove the old filter, since the hex cap requires significant turning force.
  • The replacement filter for a 2010 Civic is usually a Honda part number 15400-PLM-A01 or equivalent aftermarket filter rated for your engine size.
  • Draining the old oil before removing the filter prevents spilling used oil across your engine bay and makes the job cleaner.
  • After installing the new filter, you must reset the maintenance reminder light using the dashboard controls or an OBD-II scanner.

What filter size and part number you need

The correct filter for a 2010 Honda Civic depends on your engine. For the 1.8-liter engine (DX, LX, EX, and Hybrid models), Honda part number 15400-PLM-A01 is the OEM filter. For the 2.0-liter Si engine, the part number is 15400-PLM-A02. Both are spin-on filters with a hex-shaped top cap.

If you choose an aftermarket filter instead of Honda's OEM part, look for filters labeled as compatible with 2010 Civic 1.8L or 2.0L (depending on your engine). Common aftermarket brands like Mobil 1, Fram, and Bosch all make filters for this vehicle. The filter should have a bypass valve rated for your engine's oil pressure and a gasket that seats properly on the mounting surface. Check the filter's specifications to confirm it matches your engine displacement before purchase.

Tools and supplies you'll need

To remove and replace the filter, you need a filter wrench that fits the hex cap on top of the filter. For the 2010 Civic, a 74mm or 86mm filter wrench typically works, depending on the filter brand. A socket-style wrench (the kind that slides over the hex cap) is easier to use in tight spaces than a strap wrench, though either works. You should also have an oil drain pan underneath the filter before you loosen it, since some oil will spill out.

Gather a rag or shop towels to wipe your hands and clean any spilled oil from the engine block. If you're replacing the oil at the same time (which is the normal procedure), you'll also need the correct amount and grade of oil for your Civic — check your owner's manual for the specification. A new crush washer for the drain plug is optional but recommended if you're draining the oil; it prevents leaks at the drain plug.

How to access the filter if it's hard to reach

If you cannot reach the filter from above, you may need to remove the plastic undertray that covers the bottom of the engine. This splash guard is held on by several plastic clips and bolts — typically 8 to 10 fasteners around the perimeter. Unbolt or unclip these, and the tray slides down and out. Once it's off, you have clear access to the filter from below, which is actually easier for some people because you can see what you're doing and gravity helps drain the oil.

If you're working in a tight garage or driveway, you can also remove the air intake box to gain more room above the engine. This requires disconnecting the air intake hose and removing a few bolts, but it opens up the driver's side of the engine considerably. Neither step is required — many owners straightforward angle their arm down and work by feel — but both are straightforward if you need the extra space.

Steps to remove the old filter

First, make sure the engine is cool or has been off for at least five minutes. Position your oil drain pan under the filter. Using your filter wrench, grip the hex cap on top of the filter and turn it counterclockwise. The filter will loosen and spin off by hand once the wrench has broken it free. As you unscrew it, tilt the filter slightly to let the oil inside drain into the pan.

Once the filter is off, inspect the rubber gasket (the seal ring) on the old filter. Make sure it came off with the filter and did not stick to the engine block. If it did stick, carefully peel it off by hand — leaving it behind will cause an oil leak on the new filter. Wipe the mounting surface on the engine block clean with a rag to remove any dirt or old gasket material.

Installing the new filter and resetting the light

Before installing the new filter, explore a thin coat of fresh oil to the rubber gasket on the new filter. This helps the gasket seat properly and makes removal easier next time. Screw the new filter onto the mounting surface by hand until the gasket contacts the engine block, then turn it an additional three-quarters of a turn. Do not use the wrench to tighten it — hand-tight is correct. Over-tightening can damage the gasket and make the filter hard to remove later.

After the filter is installed and you've refilled the oil (if you drained it), start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds to circulate the new oil and check for leaks. Look under the filter for any drips. Once you've confirmed there are no leaks, you need to reset the maintenance reminder light on your dashboard. On a 2010 Civic, turn the ignition to the "On" position without starting the engine, press the select button on the steering wheel to navigate to the maintenance menu, and follow the prompts to reset the oil change reminder. If you don't have this menu, an OBD-II scanner can also clear the light.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change the oil filter without draining the oil?

Yes, you can remove and replace the filter without draining the oil, though some oil will spill out of the filter housing when you unscrew it. If you're only changing the filter and not the oil, have your drain pan ready and expect to lose roughly a quart of oil. You'll need to top off the oil level afterward. Most people drain the oil and filter together during a full oil change, which is more efficient.

What happens if I install the filter too tight?

Over-tightening the filter can crush the rubber gasket, which causes oil to leak around the seal. It also makes the filter extremely difficult to remove at the next service. Hand-tight plus three-quarters of a turn is the correct torque — the gasket will compress slightly and create a watertight seal without being crushed.

Is the Honda OEM filter worth the extra cost over an aftermarket filter?

Honda's OEM filters are made to Honda's specifications and are reliable, but quality aftermarket filters from brands like Mobil 1 or Bosch perform similarly and often cost less. The main difference is the gasket material and bypass valve calibration. For a 2010 Civic, either OEM or a reputable aftermarket filter will work well — choose based on price and availability.

Do I need to replace the crush washer on the drain plug?

If you're draining the oil, replacing the crush washer on the drain plug is recommended but not required. A new washer costs a few dollars and prevents leaks at the drain plug. If you reuse the old washer and it's already been compressed, it may not seal as tightly and could drip. Many people replace it every other oil change as a compromise.