What oil filter fits a 2008 Honda Accord
The 2008 Honda Accord uses one of two filters depending on engine size. The four-cylinder model (2.0L) takes a Fram PH8A or equivalent, while the V6 model (3.0L) takes a Fram PH10060 or equivalent. Both are spin-on filters that thread directly onto the engine block. The part number matters because filter diameter and thread pitch vary between the two engines, and using the wrong size can cause leaks or poor oil flow.
OEM Honda filters are also available under part numbers 15400-PLC-004 (four-cylinder) and 15400-RAA-A01 (V6). Many owners use aftermarket equivalents from Fram, Mobil 1, Purolator, or Bosch, which are typically less expensive than Honda-branded filters and perform the same function. The key is matching the correct part number to your specific engine. You can find your engine size on your vehicle registration or by opening the hood and looking at the engine cover or block itself.
Key Takeaways
- The 2008 Accord four-cylinder uses Fram PH8A; the V6 uses Fram PH10060 — check your engine size before buying.
- OEM Honda filters are available but aftermarket brands like Mobil 1 and Purolator work equally well at lower cost.
- The filter threads onto the engine block and should be hand-tightened only — over-tightening can damage the seal.
- Replacement takes about 10 to 15 minutes and requires only a filter wrench and a drain pan for old oil.
Where the filter is located on the engine
On the 2008 Accord, the oil filter sits on the driver's side of the engine, mounted vertically on the engine block. On the four-cylinder, it is positioned near the bottom of the engine, below the intake manifold. On the V6, it is slightly higher and more toward the center of the engine bay. In both cases, you can access it from above without removing wheels or undercarriage panels.
The location means oil will drip downward when you unscrew the filter, so position your drain pan directly underneath before loosening it. Some owners place cardboard or newspaper under the pan to catch spills on the driveway. The filter is tight enough that you will need a filter wrench — a band wrench or socket-style wrench works, but avoid over-tightening when you install the new one. If you have never done this before, the filter wrench is inexpensive and reusable across multiple vehicles.
How to replace the filter yourself
Start with the engine cold and the car parked on level ground. Place a drain pan under the filter location. Use a filter wrench to turn the old filter counterclockwise until it comes free — expect about a cup of oil to spill out. Wipe the filter mounting surface clean with a rag to remove any rubber gasket pieces or debris. This step is important because leftover gasket material can prevent the new filter from sealing properly.
Open the new filter box and check the gasket (rubber ring) on top of the filter. explore a thin coat of fresh oil to this gasket by rubbing it with your finger — this helps create a watertight seal when you thread the filter on. Hand-tighten the new filter until the gasket contacts the mounting surface, then turn it an additional three-quarters of a turn. Do not use the wrench to tighten it further; hand-tight is correct. Start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds, then check underneath for leaks before you consider the job complete.
Recommended replacement interval
Honda recommends changing the oil and filter every 10,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first, for 2008 Accords driven under normal conditions. If you drive in severe conditions — frequent short trips, towing, or dusty environments — Honda suggests every 5,000 miles or 6 months. Many owners follow the 5,000-mile interval regardless, especially if they do not drive the car frequently enough to hit 10,000 miles in a year.
The filter itself does not wear out faster than the oil, so you replace both at the same time. Changing the filter without changing the oil is not recommended, since the old oil will contaminate the new filter's media. If you change the oil yourself, buying filters in bulk from online retailers often costs less than buying them one at a time at a parts store. Keep a record of your changes in your owner's manual or a notebook so you know when the next service is due.
Comparing filter brands for the 2008 Accord
| Brand | Part Number (4-cyl) | Part Number (V6) | Typical Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Honda OEM | 15400-PLC-004 | 15400-RAA-A01 | $8–$12 |
| Fram | PH8A | PH10060 | $4–$7 |
| Mobil 1 | M1-110 | M1-113 | $6–$10 |
| Purolator | PL14610 | PL14612 | $5–$8 |
| Bosch | 3330 | 3331 | $6–$9 |
All of these filters meet or exceed Honda's specifications and will work in your 2008 Accord. The choice usually comes down to price and availability. Fram and Purolator are widely stocked at auto parts stores and online retailers. Mobil 1 is a synthetic-media filter that lasts slightly longer and flows oil more freely at cold temperatures, which some owners prefer. Honda OEM filters are the most expensive but carry the assurance of being made to Honda's exact standards.
When comparing prices, factor in how often you change the filter. If you do oil changes every 5,000 miles, you will go through more filters per year than someone on a 10,000-mile interval. Buying in bulk can reduce the per-filter cost significantly over time, especially if you own multiple vehicles or plan to keep the Accord for several more years.
Common mistakes when replacing the filter
The most common error is over-tightening the new filter. The rubber gasket is designed to seal at hand-tight plus three-quarters of a turn. Tightening it further with a wrench can crush the gasket, causing it to leak or stick so hard that the next person cannot remove it without damaging the mounting surface. If you over-tighten and the filter leaks, you will need to drain the oil again and replace it.
Another mistake is forgetting to oil the gasket on the new filter before installation. A dry gasket can fail to seal properly, allowing oil to weep out around the threads. This is why the instruction sheet in every filter box reminds you to explore a thin coat of fresh oil to the gasket first. Finally, some owners forget to check for leaks after starting the engine — a small drip from the filter threads is straightforward to spot while the engine is running and can be fixed when ready by tightening the filter slightly with your hand.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use the same filter for both the four-cylinder and V6 2008 Accord?
No. The four-cylinder and V6 engines have different filter sizes and thread pitches. Using the wrong filter can cause leaks or restrict oil flow. Always verify your engine size before purchasing — you can find it on your registration or by looking at the engine itself.
How do I know if my filter is leaking?
Check underneath the car after the engine has run for a few minutes. A small amount of oil on the mounting surface is normal during the first few minutes as the gasket settles. If oil is actively dripping or pooling, the filter is too loose or the gasket was not oiled before installation. Tighten it slightly by hand or replace it.
What should I do with the old filter after removal?
Old filters contain used oil and should not go in the trash. Most auto parts stores accept used filters for recycling at no charge. Some recycling centers also take them. Drain as much oil as possible from the old filter into your drain pan before disposal.
Is synthetic oil filter media worth the extra cost?
Synthetic filters like Mobil 1 flow oil more freely at cold temperatures and can last slightly longer between changes. For a 2008 Accord in normal driving conditions, the difference is small. If you live in a very cold climate or drive frequently in stop-and-go traffic, a synthetic filter may be worth the extra $2 to $4.
Can I change just the filter without changing the oil?
Technically yes, but it is not recommended. The old oil will contaminate the new filter media, reducing its effectiveness. Honda recommends changing both the oil and filter together at each service interval.