The 2006 Odyssey uses a cartridge-style oil filter mounted on top of the engine

The 2006 Honda Odyssey has an oil filter that sits in a plastic housing on the upper part of the engine, not a spin-on canister underneath like many other vehicles. This cartridge design means you remove a cap, pull out the filter element, and replace it — no wrench needed on the filter itself. The housing is located toward the front-left of the engine bay, and you can reach it without removing other parts.

This design is actually simpler than traditional filters once you know where to look. The filter element costs between $8 and $15, and the job takes about 10 minutes once you have the old oil drained. You will need an oil filter wrench to remove the housing cap — a standard 74mm or 76mm cartridge wrench, which costs $10 to $20 if you do not already own one.

Key Takeaways

  • The 2006 Odyssey's oil filter is a cartridge type in a plastic housing on top of the engine, not a spin-on filter underneath.
  • You will need a cartridge oil filter wrench (74mm or 76mm) to remove the housing cap and access the filter element.
  • The filter element itself costs $8 to $15, and the entire replacement takes about 10 minutes after draining old oil.
  • The housing cap has a rubber gasket that must be replaced each time you change the filter to prevent leaks.

Locating the filter housing on your engine

Open your hood and look toward the front-left of the engine, roughly above where the serpentine belt runs. You will see a black plastic cylinder about 3 inches tall with a cap on top — that is the oil filter housing. On the 2006 Odyssey, it sits between the engine block and the firewall, making it accessible but slightly recessed. If you are standing in front of the vehicle looking at the engine, it is on the driver's side, closer to the middle than the edge.

The housing has a single bolt on top that you can see from above. This bolt holds the cap in place. Below the cap is the cartridge filter element, which looks like a white or cream-colored cylinder about 2 inches long. The entire assembly is sealed, so you will not see the filter itself until you remove the cap.

What you need before you start

Gather a cartridge oil filter wrench in the 74mm to 76mm size — this is the tool that grips the cap and lets you turn it. A standard adjustable wrench will not work because the cap is smooth and round. You can find these wrenches at any auto parts store, and they are inexpensive enough to keep in your toolbox for future oil changes.

You will also need a new oil filter element (the part that actually filters the oil) and a new rubber gasket for the cap. Most filter kits sold for the 2006 Odyssey include both the element and the gasket together, so check the package before you buy. Have a drain pan ready underneath the housing — when you remove the cap, some oil will drip out, though not as much as when you drain the pan itself.

Make sure the engine is cool or warm, not hot. If you just drove the vehicle, wait 5 to 10 minutes before opening the housing, since the oil inside will be very hot.

Removing the old filter element

Place your drain pan under the housing to catch any oil that spills. Fit your cartridge wrench onto the cap at the top of the housing and turn it counterclockwise. The cap will come off in your hand — it is hand-tight, not extremely tight, so you should not need to strain. As soon as the cap clears the housing, oil will begin to drip, so keep the pan positioned underneath.

Once the cap is off, you will see the filter element inside the housing. It looks like a white or cream-colored cylinder with a rubber gasket on the bottom. Reach in and pull the element straight up and out. The gasket on the bottom of the element may stick to the housing, so check the housing opening to make sure the old gasket came out with the element. If a rubber ring is still stuck inside, remove it by hand — this is important, because a double gasket will prevent the new cap from sealing properly.

Wipe the inside of the housing with a clean rag to remove any debris or old gasket material. The sealing surface must be clean for the new gasket to work.

Installing the new filter element

Take your new filter element and examine the rubber gasket on the bottom. It should be a flat ring of rubber, usually black or dark brown. Before you install the element, lightly coat this gasket with a thin film of new oil — use the same oil you are putting in the engine. This helps the gasket seat properly and makes it easier to remove next time.

Insert the new element into the housing, pushing it straight down until it seats. You should feel it stop when the gasket makes contact with the housing. Do not force it; it will stop naturally when it is in the right position. The element should sit flush with the top of the housing opening.

Now install the cap. The cap has a rubber gasket on its underside as well. Lightly coat this gasket with new oil too, then thread the cap back onto the housing by hand. Once the gasket makes contact with the housing, turn the cap an additional three-quarters of a turn — not a full turn, just three-quarters. This compresses the gasket enough to seal without over-tightening. If you use the wrench to tighten it further, you risk damaging the gasket or cracking the plastic housing.

Checking for leaks after installation

Start the engine and let it run for about 30 seconds. The oil pressure light on your dashboard will come on briefly, then go out as oil circulates through the new filter. This is normal. Turn off the engine and wait a minute, then check the area around the filter housing cap for any drips or wet spots. If you see oil leaking from where the cap meets the housing, turn off the engine when ready and let it cool.

Once cool, remove the cap again using your wrench and check that the gasket is seated properly. Make sure no old gasket material is stuck in the housing, and verify that the new gasket is in place on the cap. Reinstall the cap with the same three-quarter-turn tightening method. Do not over-tighten — this is the most common cause of leaks on this design.

After you have confirmed there are no leaks, check your oil level using the dipstick and top off if needed. The filter change itself does not require adding oil, but you may need to add some if you also drained the oil pan during a full oil change.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a regular spin-on oil filter on my 2006 Odyssey?

No. The 2006 Odyssey is designed for a cartridge filter only. Spin-on filters are not compatible with this engine. If you see a spin-on filter listed for this year and model, it is for a different vehicle or an incorrect listing.

What size wrench do I need for the filter cap?

A 74mm or 76mm cartridge oil filter wrench. These are sold specifically for this type of filter and are inexpensive. Do not try to use an adjustable wrench or pliers — they will slip on the smooth cap and may damage it.

How often should I replace the filter on a 2006 Odyssey?

Honda recommends replacing the oil filter every time you change the oil. For a 2006 Odyssey, that is typically every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, depending on your driving conditions and the type of oil you use. Check your owner's manual for the specific interval for your vehicle.

What happens if I over-tighten the filter cap?

Over-tightening can crack the plastic housing or damage the rubber gasket, both of which will cause oil leaks. Tighten the cap by hand until the gasket contacts the housing, then turn it three-quarters of a turn more. That is all the tightening this design needs.

Is there oil in the filter housing that I need to drain separately?

A small amount of oil will drip out when you remove the cap, but you do not need to drain the housing separately. The oil that remains in the housing will mix with the new oil when you start the engine. This is normal and expected.