What motor mounts do and why they wear out
Motor mounts are rubber-and-metal pieces bolted between your engine and the frame of your car. Their job is to hold the engine in place while absorbing the vibration and movement that happens when the engine runs. Over time — usually between 5 and 10 years, depending on driving conditions — the rubber degrades, cracks, or separates from the metal. When that happens, you'll feel excessive vibration in the steering wheel, pedals, or seat, especially when you accelerate or shift into gear.
A worn mount also lets the engine move more than it should, which can stress other components like hoses, belts, and transmission lines. Replacing motor mounts before they fail completely prevents damage to those parts and stops the vibration that makes driving uncomfortable. Most cars have between three and four motor mounts, depending on the engine size and vehicle design.
Key Takeaways
- Motor mounts are rubber-and-metal pieces that hold your engine in place and absorb vibration; they typically last 5 to 10 years before the rubber degrades.
- You'll need basic hand tools (socket set, wrenches, jack, jack stands), a way to support the engine weight, and the correct replacement mounts for your vehicle year and model.
- The job involves raising the vehicle safely, supporting the engine, unbolting the old mounts, and bolting new ones in place — a process that usually takes 2 to 4 hours for one mount.
- If you lack a lift or engine hoist, or if your vehicle has mounts in tight spaces, this job is better left to a shop because improper support can cause engine damage.
Tools and parts you'll need before you start
Gather your tools and parts before you begin. You'll need a socket set and wrenches to fit your vehicle's bolt sizes, a floor jack rated for your car's weight, jack stands (never rely on a jack alone), and a way to support the engine while you work on the mounts. Many people use an engine hoist or cherry picker for this; if you don't have one, you can rent one from an auto parts store or tool rental shop for $30 to $50 per day. Some shops also rent engine support bars that bolt to the top of the engine block.
You'll also need the correct replacement motor mounts for your vehicle's year, make, and model. Check your owner's manual or a parts catalog to confirm which mounts you need and how many. Buy OEM (original equipment manufacturer) mounts or quality aftermarket replacements — cheap mounts wear out faster and may not dampen vibration properly. Have a helper on hand if possible; supporting the engine and unbolting mounts at the same time is difficult alone.
Locating your motor mounts and assessing the damage
Open your hood and look at the rubber-and-metal pieces connecting the engine to the frame. Most cars have one mount on each side of the engine, one at the rear, and sometimes one underneath. The rubber will look cracked, separated from the metal, or collapsed if it's worn. You can also feel the mounts by having someone gently rev the engine while you watch — a bad mount will let the engine rock excessively side to side or front to back.
If you're unsure which mounts are bad, a mechanic can confirm this with a visual inspection in a few minutes. Replacing all mounts at once is often worth the extra cost and labor, because if one is failing, the others are usually close behind. If you're only replacing one, mark its location with tape or a photo so you remember which one you removed.
Raising the vehicle and supporting the engine safely
Park on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Raise the vehicle with the floor jack under a solid frame point (not the plastic undertray), then place jack stands under the frame on both sides. Lower the vehicle onto the stands. Never work under a car supported only by a jack — jack failure can cause serious injury.
Next, support the engine weight. If you're using an engine hoist, position it over the engine and attach the chains or straps to solid lifting points on the engine block (your manual will show where these are). Tighten the hoist just enough to take the weight off the mounts — don't lift the engine high. If you're using an engine support bar, bolt it to the top of the engine block and find the other end to the frame or a sturdy overhead structure. The goal is to hold the engine steady so it won't drop when you remove the mount bolts.
Removing the old motor mount
Locate the bolts holding the mount to the engine block and the frame. You'll typically find two to four bolts per mount. Use your socket set to remove these bolts one at a time, starting with the frame-side bolts, then the engine-side bolts. Keep the bolts in order so you can reuse them if they're in good condition. Once all bolts are out, the old mount should come free. If it's stuck, tap it gently with a rubber mallet or spray penetrating oil and wait a few minutes.
Inspect the bolt holes on both the engine and frame for damage or corrosion. If a hole is stripped or the bolt won't tighten, you may need to drill and re-tap it, which requires a tap set and some mechanical skill. If you're not comfortable doing this, stop here and take the vehicle to a shop.
Installing the new motor mount
Position the new mount so the bolt holes line up with the holes on the engine and frame. Insert the bolts by hand first — don't tighten them yet. Once all bolts are started, tighten them in a cross pattern (like tightening a wheel), alternating between engine-side and frame-side bolts. This keeps the mount seated evenly. Tighten to the torque specification listed in your manual; over-tightening can crack the rubber, and under-tightening can let the mount shift.
If your manual doesn't list a torque spec, aim for snug-and-firm — tight enough that the bolt won't turn by hand, but not so tight that you're straining. Once all bolts are tight, slowly lower the engine hoist or release the support bar to transfer the engine weight back to the new mount. The engine should settle smoothly without jerking or tilting.
Lowering the vehicle and testing your work
Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it fully to the ground. Start the engine and let it idle for a minute while you watch the engine from the side — it should sit level and move only slightly when you rev it. If the engine rocks excessively or tilts to one side, the mount may not be seated correctly or the bolts may not be tight enough. Turn off the engine and check all bolts again.
Take a short test drive on a quiet road, accelerating gently and shifting through the gears. You should feel less vibration than before. If vibration is still present, another mount may also be worn, or the new mount may not be the correct part for your vehicle. Stop and double-check the part number against your manual.
When to take this job to a shop instead
Motor mount replacement is straightforward on many vehicles, but some designs make it difficult or risky to do at home. If your vehicle has mounts in tight spaces where you can't safely access the bolts, if the engine is mounted at an unusual angle, or if you don't have access to a hoist or support bar, a shop is the better choice. Shops have lifts that make the work faster and safer, and they can handle complications like stripped bolt holes or seized bolts without damaging the engine.
The labor cost at a shop typically ranges from $200 to $600 per mount, depending on location and vehicle complexity. If you're replacing multiple mounts, the total can add up quickly, but the safety and warranty are worth it if you're uncertain about your ability to support the engine properly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace just one motor mount, or do I need to replace them all?
You can replace just one if only one is visibly damaged, but if one is failing, the others are usually wearing too. Replacing all mounts at once costs more upfront but prevents repeat vibration problems in a few months. Ask a mechanic to inspect all mounts before you decide.
How long does it take to replace a motor mount?
Replacing one mount typically takes 2 to 4 hours if you have the right tools and experience. Replacing multiple mounts can take 4 to 8 hours. A shop with a lift can often do it faster because they don't have to spend time setting up engine support.
What happens if I drive with a bad motor mount?
You'll feel excessive vibration, but the car is still drivable in the short term. Over time, the movement can stress hoses, belts, and transmission lines, leading to leaks or other damage. It's best to replace the mount before those problems start.
Do I need to reset anything after replacing a motor mount?
No. Motor mounts don't have electrical connections or sensors, so there's nothing to reset. Once the new mount is bolted in and the engine is running smoothly, the job is complete.
What's the difference between OEM and aftermarket motor mounts?
OEM mounts are made by the vehicle manufacturer and are usually more expensive but last longer and dampen vibration better. Aftermarket mounts from reputable brands are cheaper and work well, but budget brands may wear out faster. Read reviews before buying aftermarket parts.