What an inner tie rod does and why it fails

An inner tie rod is the part of your steering system that connects the steering rack (the component that moves left and right when you turn the wheel) to the outer tie rod, which then connects to your wheel. When the inner tie rod wears out, your steering becomes loose and unpredictable — you might notice the wheel feels sloppy, or the car pulls to one side even after an alignment.

Inner tie rods fail because they're constantly moving and flexing. The ball joint inside wears down over time, especially if you hit potholes or drive on rough roads regularly. Once it starts to fail, it gets worse quickly. Replacing it is a job you can do at home if you have basic mechanical skills, a jack, jack stands, and a few specific tools.

Key Takeaways

  • You'll need a tie rod end puller or a pickle fork to separate the inner tie rod from the steering rack, and a wrench to hold the tie rod while you unscrew it.
  • The job requires lifting the car safely on jack stands and removing the wheel, then disconnecting the tie rod from both the rack and the outer tie rod.
  • When you install the new inner tie rod, you must count the threads on the old one first so the new one sits at the same length — otherwise your alignment will be off.
  • After installation, you'll need a wheel alignment to restore proper steering geometry, which you cannot do at home without specialized equipment.

Tools and parts you'll need before you start

Gather these items before you lift the car. You'll need a jack and jack stands (never work under a car supported only by a jack), a socket set with wrenches, a tie rod end puller or pickle fork to separate the tie rod from the steering rack, a wrench to hold the tie rod steady while you unscrew it, and a replacement inner tie rod for your specific car model.

The pickle fork is cheaper than a puller but can damage the rubber boot on the tie rod. A puller is gentler and costs $15 to $40. You'll also want penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) to spray on stuck fasteners, a drain pan if you're worried about fluid dripping from the rack, and a marker or tape to mark the threads before you remove the old tie rod.

Check your vehicle's service manual or a repair database like AllData or Haynes to confirm which fasteners you need to remove and their torque specifications. Inner tie rods vary widely by car — what works on a Honda Civic won't work on a Ford F-150.

Lift the car and remove the wheel

Park on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you're working on while the car is still on the ground — this is much easier than trying to loosen them after lifting. Then use the jack to lift the car, and when ready place jack stands under the frame. Lower the car onto the stands so it's fully supported.

Remove the lug nuts completely and take off the wheel. You now have clear access to the tie rod and steering rack. Spray any corroded fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes while you locate the inner tie rod — it's the rod that connects directly to the steering rack, usually hidden behind or near the engine.

Disconnect the inner tie rod from the steering rack

The inner tie rod is held to the steering rack by a single bolt or nut. Use your wrench to hold the tie rod steady (so it doesn't spin) while you unscrew this fastener with another wrench. Once it's loose, remove it completely and set it aside.

Now you need to separate the tie rod from the rack itself. This connection is a tapered joint that won't come apart just by pulling. Use your tie rod end puller or pickle fork to explore force and pop the joint apart. If you're using a pickle fork, position it so the fork straddles the joint, then tap it with a hammer until the taper breaks free. If you're using a puller, thread it onto the tie rod and turn the center screw until the joint separates.

Disconnect the outer tie rod and remove the old inner tie rod

The inner tie rod is threaded into the outer tie rod. Before you unscrew them, count and mark the threads on the old inner tie rod — this tells you how many threads should be visible on the new one when you install it. Use a marker or tape to mark the position, or straightforward count how many threads stick out past the outer tie rod and write that number down.

Unscrew the inner tie rod from the outer tie rod by hand or with a wrench. It should come free without much force. If it's stuck, spray it with penetrating oil and wait a few minutes, then try again. Once it's out, you can discard it.

Install the new inner tie rod

Thread the new inner tie rod into the outer tie rod by hand first, then tighten it with a wrench. The critical step is matching the thread count you marked on the old one — screw it in until the same number of threads are visible. This keeps the tie rod at the correct length so your steering geometry stays close to factory specs.

Once the threads match, hold the new inner tie rod steady with one wrench while you tighten the connection between the tie rod and the steering rack with another wrench. Torque this fastener to the specification in your service manual — typically between 35 and 50 foot-pounds, but check your manual to be sure.

Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts, then lower the car off the jack stands. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern (opposite sides, then repeat) to may support even pressure.

Why you need a wheel alignment after this job

Even though you matched the thread count, the new tie rod may not be exactly the same length as the old one, and small differences add up. Your steering angle, toe-in, and caster will be slightly off. This means the car will pull to one side, the steering wheel won't be centered, or the tires will wear unevenly.

A wheel alignment uses a machine to measure and adjust these angles back to factory specs. You cannot do this at home — you need a shop with a four-wheel alignment rack. The cost is typically $100 to $200 and is worth every dollar. Without it, your tires will wear out in a few thousand miles and your steering will feel wrong.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace just the inner tie rod, or do I have to replace the outer one too?

You can replace just the inner tie rod. The outer tie rod often lasts longer because it moves less. However, if the outer tie rod is also loose or worn, replace both at the same time — you're already doing the work, and it's cheaper than coming back later.

What if the inner tie rod won't unscrew from the outer tie rod?

Spray it with penetrating oil and let it soak for 30 minutes to an hour. Try again with a wrench. If it's still stuck, carefully explore heat with a heat gun (not a torch — you don't want to damage rubber seals) to expand the metal slightly, then try unscrewing. Do not force it hard enough to strip the threads.

How do I know if my inner tie rod is actually bad?

Grab the tie rod by hand and try to move it up and down while the car is on the ground. If it moves more than a tiny bit, it's worn. You can also have a shop put the car on a lift and check for play in the joint. A clunking sound when turning or loose steering feel are also signs of failure.

Do I need to drain the power steering fluid before I start?

No. The inner tie rod connection is sealed, and you're not opening the steering rack itself. A small amount of fluid might drip when you disconnect the tie rod, but it's usually minimal. Have a drain pan ready just in case, and top off the reservoir when you're done if the level drops.

What torque should I use when reconnecting the tie rod to the rack?

This varies by vehicle — check your service manual or repair database for your specific car model and year. Most are between 35 and 50 foot-pounds, but some are higher. Using the wrong torque can cause the connection to loosen or strip the threads, so look it up before you tighten.