What a tie rod does and why it fails
A tie rod is a metal rod that connects your steering gear to the wheel hub, letting you turn the wheels when you move the steering wheel. There are two tie rods per wheel — an inner tie rod (closer to the steering gear) and an outer tie rod (closer to the wheel). When either one wears out, your steering becomes loose or unresponsive, and the car may pull to one side.
Tie rods wear out because they take constant stress from turning, bumps, and road salt. A worn tie rod usually shows up as a clunking sound when you turn, a steering wheel that feels loose, or uneven tire wear. If you ignore it, the tie rod can separate completely, and you lose steering control.
Replacing a tie rod is a job most people with basic tools and mechanical confidence can do at home. It takes about an hour per side. You will need a jack, jack stands, a wrench set, a tie rod removal tool (or a hammer and a pickle fork), and a way to align the wheels afterward.
Key Takeaways
- You must raise the car safely on jack stands before you touch the tie rod — never work under a car supported only by a jack.
- The outer tie rod threads onto the inner tie rod, so you count the threads as you unscrew it to know how many turns to screw the new one back on.
- A tie rod removal tool or pickle fork separates the tie rod from the wheel hub; a hammer blow on the pickle fork is the cheapest way if you do not own the tool.
- After installation, the wheel alignment will be off, so you need a shop alignment or the car will pull and the tires will wear unevenly.
Gather your tools and materials before you start
You will need a floor jack, two jack stands rated for your car's weight, a lug wrench, a socket set with wrenches in the sizes that fit your car's tie rod nuts (usually 16mm to 18mm), a tie rod removal tool or pickle fork, a hammer, and a new tie rod assembly. Buy the tie rod for your specific make, model, and year — tie rods are not universal.
If you do not own a tie rod removal tool, a pickle fork (a two-pronged forked tool) works just as well and costs $10 to $20. If you do not own that either, you can separate the tie rod by striking the wheel hub with a hammer near where the tie rod connects, which shocks the joint loose — this is harder on the car but free.
Have a helper on hand if possible. One person can hold the wheel steady while the other works on the tie rod. If you are alone, you can wedge the wheel with a block of wood or a wheel chock.
Raise the car and remove the wheel
Park on a flat, level surface and engage the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you are working on while the car is still on the ground — they are easier to break loose when the wheel has weight on it. Loosen them a quarter turn; do not remove them yet.
Position the floor jack under the car's frame (not the plastic trim or suspension parts) and raise the car until the wheel is about six inches off the ground. Slide a jack stand under the frame on the same side and lower the car onto the stand. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
Now remove the lug nuts completely and pull the wheel straight toward you. Set it aside in a safe place where it will not roll.
Disconnect the tie rod from the wheel hub
Look at the wheel hub. You will see the tie rod end — a ball joint with a nut on top — connected to a hole in the hub. Use your wrench to hold the nut while you strike the wheel hub with a hammer near the tie rod connection, or use a pickle fork or tie rod removal tool to pry the joint apart. The goal is to shock the ball joint loose from the hub.
If you use a pickle fork, position it around the tie rod end and tap the fork with a hammer until the joint separates. If you use a hammer alone, strike the hub just below or above the tie rod connection point — the shock will pop the ball joint free. This takes a few solid blows; be patient.
Once the tie rod is loose, unscrew the nut by hand and remove the tie rod end from the hub.
Unscrew the old tie rod and count the threads
The outer tie rod is threaded onto the inner tie rod like a bolt on a nut. Before you unscrew it, count how many complete rotations it takes to come off. Write this number down — you will use it to install the new one in the same position, which keeps your steering geometry close to correct.
Use two wrenches: one to hold the inner tie rod steady and one to turn the outer tie rod counterclockwise. Turn slowly and count each full rotation. When the outer tie rod comes free, set it aside.
If the inner tie rod is also worn (the shop may have told you this, or you may feel play in the steering even after replacing the outer one), you can replace it now using the same method. Most home repairs replace only the outer tie rod, which is the part that usually wears first.
Install the new tie rod in the same position
Thread the new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod by hand first, then use your wrench to tighten it. Turn it the same number of rotations you counted when you removed the old one. This puts the new tie rod in roughly the same position as the old one, which means your steering wheel will be centered and your wheels will be close to straight.
Do not tighten it all the way yet. You want it snug enough that it will not spin, but loose enough that you can still adjust it slightly if needed after the wheel is back on.
Now reconnect the tie rod end to the wheel hub. Insert the ball joint into the hole and thread the nut on by hand, then use your wrench to tighten it. Tighten it firmly — this joint carries all your steering force — but do not over-tighten, which can crack the ball joint.
Reinstall the wheel and lower the car
Slide the wheel back onto the hub and thread the lug nuts on by hand. Lower the car slowly onto the wheel by raising the jack stand slightly and then lowering the jack. Once the wheel is on the ground, use your wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern (opposite sides, then the remaining ones) to make sure the wheel sits evenly.
Tighten each lug nut firmly but do not use all your strength — over-tightening can strip the threads or warp the rotor. A good rule is to tighten until you feel solid resistance, then give it a quarter turn more.
Repeat the process on the other side if you are replacing both tie rods, or move to the next wheel if you are doing all four.
Get a wheel alignment after replacement
After you replace a tie rod, the wheel alignment is no longer correct. The car may pull to one side, the steering wheel may be off-center, or the tires may wear unevenly. You need a professional alignment to fix this.
A wheel alignment costs $75 to $200 depending on your area and whether it is a two-wheel or four-wheel alignment. Most shops recommend a four-wheel alignment after any suspension work. Schedule this within a week of replacing the tie rod — do not drive the car hard or on the highway until it is aligned.
Some shops will do a quick visual check for free to see if the alignment is obviously wrong. If the car drives straight and the steering wheel is centered, the alignment may be close enough that you can wait a few weeks. But if you notice pulling or the steering wheel is off-center, get it aligned right away.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace just one tie rod or do I have to replace both?
You can replace just one. However, if both are worn, replacing only one means the other will fail soon after. Ask your mechanic to inspect both sides before you start. If only one is bad, replacing it alone is fine.
What if I cannot get the tie rod to separate from the wheel hub?
Strike the hub harder with the hammer, or use penetrating oil (like WD-40) and let it soak for 15 minutes before trying again. If you have a pickle fork or tie rod removal tool, use that instead of a hammer — it applies more focused force. As a last resort, a shop can separate it with a hydraulic press, but this is rare.
Do I need to replace the inner tie rod too?
Not usually. The outer tie rod wears first because it takes more road shock. Replace the inner tie rod only if the shop tells you it is worn, or if you still feel looseness in the steering after replacing the outer one.
How do I know if I tightened the tie rod nut enough?
The nut should be tight enough that you cannot turn it by hand, and tight enough that the tie rod does not move when you grab it and try to wiggle it. Use a wrench to tighten it until you feel solid resistance. If you are unsure, tighten it a bit more — a loose tie rod is dangerous.
What if the steering wheel is off-center after I reinstall the tie rod?
This is normal and happens because you may not have threaded the new tie rod on exactly the same number of turns as the old one. You can adjust it slightly by loosening the nut, turning the tie rod a half turn, and retightening. Then test-drive and repeat if needed. However, a proper alignment at a shop is the right fix.