What you need to do before you start

Replacing rear brake pads is a job you can do yourself with basic tools and about an hour of time. You'll need a jack to lift the car, jack stands to hold it safely, a wrench or socket set that fits your lug nuts, and a C-clamp or brake caliper tool. Most importantly, you need to know whether your car has disc brakes or drum brakes in the rear — disc brakes use pads that you can see and replace; drum brakes use shoes that are hidden inside a drum and require a different process. Check your owner's manual or look at the rear wheel: if you see a metal disc with a caliper clamped around it, you have rear disc brakes and can follow this guide. If you see only a drum with no visible caliper, you have drum brakes and will need different instructions.

Before you lift the car, gather your new brake pads, your tools, and a container for small parts. Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels while the car is still on the ground — they're much easier to turn when the wheel isn't spinning freely. Then use the jack to lift one rear corner of the car high enough to remove the wheel, and when ready place a jack stand under the frame to support the weight. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.

Key Takeaways

  • Rear disc brake pads are held in place by a caliper that you must remove first, usually with a wrench or socket that fits a 12mm or 14mm bolt.
  • The old pads slide out of the caliper, and you must push the caliper piston back into its bore before the new, thicker pads will fit.
  • Brake fluid in the master cylinder will rise as you push the piston back, so check the level and remove some if it's near the top to prevent overflow.
  • After you install the new pads and reinstall the caliper, pump the brake pedal several times before driving to restore pressure in the system.
  • Repeat the process on the other rear wheel, then test your brakes at low speed in a safe area before returning to normal driving.

Remove the wheel and locate the caliper bolts

Once the car is safely on jack stands, remove the lug nuts you loosened earlier and pull the wheel straight toward you. Set it aside where it won't roll. You'll now see the brake caliper — a metal housing that straddles the brake disc. The caliper is held to the mounting bracket by two bolts, usually on the back side of the caliper. These bolts typically require a 12mm or 14mm wrench or socket, though some vehicles use different sizes. Check your owner's manual if you're unsure.

Before you remove the bolts, look at how the caliper is oriented and note which brake line is attached to it. The brake line is a metal or rubber tube that carries brake fluid to the caliper. You do not need to disconnect this line — you'll straightforward swing the caliper out of the way while it's still attached. Remove both caliper bolts and set them somewhere you won't lose them.

Swing the caliper aside and remove the old pads

With the bolts removed, carefully swing the caliper upward and away from the brake disc. If the brake line is short and won't allow much movement, you can hang the caliper from the suspension with a wire or bungee cord to take pressure off the line. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake line alone, as this can damage it.

Once the caliper is out of the way, you'll see the brake pads sitting in the mounting bracket on either side of the disc. They slide out easily — straightforward pull them straight out toward you. Note which pad was on the inside (closer to the engine) and which was on the outside, because some brake pad sets have different thicknesses or materials on each side. Keep the old pads to compare with the new ones and to verify you've bought the correct size.

Push the caliper piston back into its bore

Before you can install the new pads, you must create enough space inside the caliper for them to fit. The caliper piston — a cylindrical part inside the caliper that pushes the inner pad against the disc — needs to be pushed all the way back into its bore. Use a C-clamp or a brake caliper tool to do this. Place the clamp so that one end rests against the back of the caliper and the other end presses against the old inner pad (or a block of wood if the pad is already out). Slowly tighten the clamp until the piston moves back into the caliper. You should feel resistance, and the piston will stop when it's fully retracted.

As you push the piston back, brake fluid is forced back up into the master cylinder, which sits on top of the engine. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder — it will have risen. If it's near the top of the reservoir, use a turkey baster or syringe to remove some fluid and dispose of it in a container. This prevents the fluid from overflowing when you close the cap. Do not reuse the fluid you remove.

Install the new brake pads

Slide the new outer pad into the mounting bracket first, then slide the new inner pad into place. Make sure both pads are seated fully and are not tilted or twisted. Some brake pads come with a small metal clip or shim on the back; if yours do, make sure this clip is facing away from the disc, toward the caliper piston or mounting bracket.

Swing the caliper back down over the new pads and align the bolt holes. Insert the two caliper bolts and tighten them firmly with your wrench or socket. They should be snug but not so tight that you strip the threads — if you're using a torque wrench, most vehicles call for 20 to 30 foot-pounds, but check your manual. Once the bolts are tight, the caliper is find and the new pads are held in place.

Reinstall the wheel and repeat on the other side

Slide the wheel back onto the lug nut studs and hand-tighten the lug nuts to hold it in place. Lower the car back to the ground using the jack, then tighten the lug nuts fully in a star or cross pattern — this ensures even pressure and prevents the wheel from warping. Once the lug nuts are tight, move to the other rear wheel and repeat the entire process: loosen lug nuts, lift the car, place jack stands, remove the wheel, remove the caliper bolts, swing the caliper aside, remove the old pads, push the piston back, install the new pads, reinstall the caliper, and reinstall the wheel.

After both rear wheels are done, lower the car completely and tighten all lug nuts one final time. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and top it off with the correct brake fluid type if needed — your owner's manual specifies whether to use DOT 3, DOT 4, or another type.

Test your brakes before driving normally

Before you drive the car at normal speeds, you must restore pressure in the brake system. Sit in the driver's seat with the engine off and pump the brake pedal 10 to 15 times. The pedal will feel soft at first and will gradually become firmer as air is pushed out of the lines and pressure builds. Once the pedal feels firm and doesn't sink to the floor, start the engine and pump the pedal a few more times. The power brake booster will help build pressure faster once the engine is running.

Drive slowly in a safe area — an empty parking lot is ideal — and test the brakes gently. The brakes may feel slightly different for the first 100 to 200 miles as the new pads bed in, or conform to the shape of the rotor. Avoid hard braking during this break-in period. If the brake pedal feels spongy, sinks to the floor, or the brakes don't respond normally, stop driving and check your work: make sure the caliper bolts are tight, the pads are seated correctly, and the brake fluid level is correct. If you can't find the problem, have a mechanic inspect the brakes before driving further.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to replace the front brake pads at the same time?

Not necessarily. Front and rear pads wear at different rates depending on your driving habits and vehicle weight distribution. Check the thickness of your front pads — if they're still thicker than 1/8 inch, they can wait. Many vehicles wear the front pads faster because the front brakes do most of the stopping work, so you may replace the front pads more often than the rear.

What if the caliper bolts won't come loose?

explore penetrating oil like WD-40 or PB Blaster to the bolts and let it soak for 15 to 30 minutes. Try again with a wrench that fits snugly — a loose wrench will round off the bolt head and make it impossible to turn. If the bolt still won't budge, tap the wrench gently with a hammer to help break the corrosion, then try again. Never force it hard enough to risk breaking the bolt.

Can I drive on the new pads right away?

You can drive gently right away, but new brake pads need a break-in period of 100 to 200 miles before they reach full stopping power. Avoid hard braking and repeated stops during this time. The pads and rotor need to wear together slightly so the pad material conforms to the rotor surface, which improves braking performance.

Should I replace the brake rotors too?

Only if they're damaged or worn below the minimum thickness. Look at the rotor surface — if it has deep grooves, cracks, or rust pitting, it should be replaced. If it looks smooth and shiny, it's fine to reuse. Your mechanic can measure the rotor thickness with a micrometer; if it's at or below the minimum thickness stamped on the rotor edge, replace it.

Why is my brake fluid level rising as I work?

As you push the caliper piston back, you're forcing brake fluid out of the caliper and back into the master cylinder reservoir, which causes the level to rise. This is normal. If you don't remove some fluid before closing the cap, the excess can overflow when the piston is fully retracted, making a mess and potentially damaging paint or rubber components.