What you need before you start

Changing rear brake pads yourself requires a few tools you may already have at home, plus a couple you can borrow or buy cheaply. You will need a jack and jack stands (or ramps) to lift the rear of your car safely, a lug wrench to remove the wheel, and a socket set or wrench to remove the caliper bolts. You will also need new brake pads that match your car's make, model, and year — buy these before you start, not after you have the wheel off.

Beyond tools, gather a container to hold small parts so they do not roll away, and old newspaper or cardboard to catch brake dust and fluid drips. Brake dust contains asbestos in older vehicles, so wear a dust mask and do not blow it around with compressed air. Have your car's service manual nearby — it will show you exactly where the caliper bolts are and how tight they need to be when you put them back.

Check that your parking brake works and that you have a level, solid surface to work on. Never work under a car supported only by a jack; always use jack stands rated for your vehicle's weight.

Key Takeaways

  • Rear brake pads wear out faster on some cars than others, so check your manual to see whether your rear brakes do most of the stopping work.
  • You will need to remove the wheel, unbolt the caliper, slide out the old pads, and bolt the caliper back on with new pads in place.
  • The caliper piston may need to be pushed back into its bore to make room for thicker new pads — use a C-clamp and an old pad as a spacer.
  • Tighten caliper bolts to the torque specification in your manual, not by feel, because loose calipers cause brake noise and uneven wear.
  • Bleed the brake system if your brake pedal feels spongy after you finish, which means air entered the lines when you opened the caliper.

Lift the car and remove the rear wheel

Park on level ground, engage the parking brake, and place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels so the car cannot roll. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel you are working on while the wheel is still on the ground — this is much easier than trying to loosen them after the wheel is in the air. Loosen them a quarter turn only; you will remove them completely after you lift the car.

Position your jack under the frame or jacking point shown in your manual, never under the bumper or plastic trim. Raise the car until the wheel is about six inches off the ground, then slide a jack stand under the frame and lower the car onto it. Place a second jack stand on the other side of the rear axle for safety. Now remove the lug nuts completely and pull the wheel straight toward you to take it off.

Remove the caliper and old brake pads

Behind the wheel you will see the brake caliper — a metal housing that holds the pads and squeezes them against the rotor. The caliper is bolted to a bracket that is bolted to the suspension. You need to remove only the caliper bolts, not the bracket bolts. These are usually two bolts on the back of the caliper, accessible with a socket wrench or Allen key depending on your car.

Unbolt the caliper and slide it away from the rotor. Do not let it hang by the brake hose; instead, support it with a wire or bungee cord hooked to the suspension. The old pads will slide out of the caliper now. Note which pad was on the inside (against the piston) and which was on the outside, because the new pads may have a wear indicator or shim that goes on only one side.

While the caliper is off, inspect the rotor for deep grooves or rust. Light surface rust is normal and will wear off, but deep grooves mean the rotor needs to be resurfaced or replaced. If you are unsure, take a photo and show it to a mechanic before you put the new pads on.

Push back the caliper piston

The caliper piston is a metal rod inside the caliper that pushes the inner pad against the rotor. As your pads wear down, the piston moves forward to keep the pads in contact with the rotor. When you install new, thicker pads, the piston must move back into its bore to make room. If you do not do this, the caliper will not fit over the rotor.

Use a C-clamp to push the piston back. Place an old brake pad or a piece of wood against the piston face, then tighten the C-clamp slowly until the piston slides back into the caliper. Do not force it; if it does not move, you may have a seized piston and should stop and consult a mechanic. Once the piston is fully retracted, remove the C-clamp and the old pad.

Install new pads and reassemble

Slide the new inner pad into the caliper first, making sure any shim or wear indicator faces outward. Then slide the outer pad into the bracket. Some cars use a spring clip to hold the pads in place; check your manual to see whether yours does and whether you need to install it before or after the caliper goes back on.

Slide the caliper back over the rotor and new pads. The pads should sit flush against the rotor with no gaps. Reinstall the caliper bolts and tighten them to the torque specification in your manual — this is usually between 20 and 40 foot-pounds for rear calipers, but it varies by car. Use a torque wrench, not a regular wrench, because bolts that are too loose will rattle and cause uneven pad wear, and bolts that are too tight can strip the threads.

Spin the wheel by hand to make sure it turns freely and the pads do not drag. If the wheel is hard to turn or you hear rubbing, the pads may be misaligned or the piston may not be fully retracted. Stop and check before you lower the car.

Reinstall the wheel and test the brakes

Slide the wheel back onto the hub and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the car with the jack, remove the jack stands, and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern — if your wheel has five lugs, tighten them in the order 1-3-5-2-4, then repeat — so the wheel sits evenly. Tighten them firmly but do not over-tighten; if you have a torque wrench, most cars need 80 to 120 foot-pounds.

Before you drive, pump the brake pedal several times while the car is parked. The pedal should feel firm and should not sink to the floor. If it feels spongy or goes soft, air may have entered the brake lines when you opened the caliper, and you will need to bleed the brakes. If the pedal feels normal, drive slowly in a safe area and test the brakes gently to make sure they work before you drive normally.

Bleed the brakes if the pedal feels spongy

A spongy brake pedal means air is trapped in the brake lines. Bleeding removes the air by forcing brake fluid through the lines and out a small valve on each caliper. You will need a helper, a clear tube that fits over the bleeder valve, a container for old fluid, and fresh brake fluid that matches your car's specification.

Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal slowly while you open the bleeder valve on the rear caliper with a wrench. Fluid and air bubbles will flow out through the tube into the container. Close the valve before your helper releases the pedal, then repeat. Continue until no air bubbles come out and only clear fluid flows. Do the same on the other rear caliper, then check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and top it up if needed.

If you are not comfortable bleeding brakes or if the pedal still feels spongy after you try, take the car to a mechanic. Brake work that is done incorrectly can cause brake failure, so it is better to ask for help than to guess.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my rear brake pads need to be changed?

Most brake pads have a metal wear indicator tab that scrapes the rotor and makes a squealing noise when the pads are thin. If you hear squealing when you brake, the pads are usually due for replacement. You can also remove the wheel and look at the pads directly — if they are thinner than a quarter inch, they need to be changed soon.

Can I change just the rear pads, or do I have to do all four wheels?

You can change just the rear pads if only the rear pads are worn. However, if the front pads are also thin, change them at the same time to avoid uneven braking. Check the front pads while you have the rear wheel off, and plan to do the fronts soon if they look thin.

What if the caliper bolts are stuck and will not loosen?

Spray the bolts with penetrating oil and let them soak for 15 to 30 minutes, then try again. If they still will not move, do not force them — you can strip the bolt or break it off. Stop and take the car to a mechanic, who has tools to remove stuck bolts without damaging the caliper.

Do I need to replace the rotor when I change the pads?

Not always. Rotors last longer than pads and usually do not need to be replaced unless they are deeply grooved, warped, or rusted through. If the rotor looks smooth and shiny, it is fine to reuse it. Your mechanic can measure the rotor thickness to confirm it is still within the safe range.

How long do new brake pads last?

Rear brake pad life varies widely depending on your driving habits, the type of pads you buy, and how much braking work the rear brakes do on your car. Some last 30,000 miles, others last 70,000 miles or more. Check your pads every year or whenever you notice squealing, and replace them when they reach a quarter inch thick.