What a Toda Fightex adjustment does

A Toda Fightex is an adjustable coilover suspension system — the springs and dampers that connect your wheels to the frame. Adjusting it means changing how stiff the suspension feels, how high or low the car sits, and how it responds when you turn or brake. Most adjustments happen at the damper body itself, using a wrench to turn a collar that controls how much resistance the shock absorber creates as it compresses and extends.

The reason you adjust it is to match the suspension to how you drive. A stiffer setting keeps the car flatter through corners but rides rougher on bumpy roads. A softer setting absorbs bumps better but lets the body roll more when you turn. Height adjustment lets you lower the car for appearance or aerodynamics, or raise it if you need ground clearance.

Key Takeaways

  • Toda Fightex dampers adjust with a wrench on the collar at the shock body — usually 16mm or 17mm — and you turn it clockwise to stiffen or counterclockwise to soften.
  • Height adjusts separately by moving the spring perch up or down the shock shaft, which requires removing the wheel and unbolting the top mount.
  • Always adjust both front shocks the same way and both rear shocks the same way, or the car will pull to one side under braking or acceleration.
  • Start with the middle setting, drive the car, and make small changes — one or two clicks — before testing again, because suspension tuning compounds over time.
  • You will need a jack, jack stands, a wrench that fits your damper collar, and ideally a helper to hold the car steady while you work underneath.

Locating the adjustment collar on your damper

The damper body is the metal cylinder that runs through the center of your coilover spring. On a Toda Fightex, the adjustment collar is a ring around that cylinder, usually located near the bottom of the shock where it connects to the lower control arm or axle. It has flat sides so a wrench can grip it — typically a 16mm or 17mm wrench, though you should check your specific model's documentation to be sure.

To see it clearly, you will need to remove the wheel on that corner of the car. Jack the car safely using the frame (not the bumper or plastic), support it on jack stands, and remove the wheel. The damper body will be visible inside the wheel well, running vertically. The collar sits partway down the shock, below the spring. If you cannot find it, trace the shock from top to bottom — the collar is the only part designed to be turned with a wrench.

Adjusting damping stiffness

Damping stiffness controls how quickly the shock absorbs and releases energy. Turning the collar clockwise makes the damper stiffer — it resists motion more, so the suspension compresses and extends more slowly. Turning it counterclockwise makes it softer — the suspension moves more freely and absorbs bumps more easily.

Most Toda Fightex dampers have a range of 16 to 32 clicks, with the middle point (usually around 16 clicks) as a starting baseline. Fit your wrench onto the collar and turn it slowly, counting the clicks as you go. Each click represents a small change in the internal valve that controls oil flow through the damper. After you adjust one corner, drive the car on a road you know well — a mix of smooth pavement and small bumps — and feel how it responds. If it feels too bouncy, go stiffer. If it feels harsh and jarring, go softer. Make changes in increments of two or three clicks and test again before going further.

The key rule: adjust both front dampers to the same setting, and both rear dampers to the same setting. If the fronts are different from each other, the car will pull to one side under braking. If the rears are different, it will pull under acceleration or feel unstable in corners.

Adjusting ride height

Ride height is how far the car sits from the ground. On a Toda Fightex, you adjust it by moving the spring perch — the collar that holds the bottom of the spring — up or down the shock shaft. Lowering the perch lowers the car; raising it raises the car.

To adjust height, you must remove the wheel and unbolt the top mount of the coilover (the bolts that connect the shock to the chassis). This usually requires removing the interior trim panel or accessing the shock tower from inside the engine bay or trunk, depending on your car. Once the top mount is unbolted, you can slide the shock down slightly to access the spring perch. The perch is held in place by a locking collar — loosen this collar with a wrench, then rotate the spring perch to move it up or down the shaft. Each full rotation typically changes ride height by about 5 to 10mm, though this varies by model. After adjusting, tighten the locking collar firmly and reinstall the top mount bolts.

Adjust height on both sides of the front axle to the same position, and both sides of the rear axle to the same position. An uneven ride height will cause the car to sit crooked and can affect handling and tire wear.

Tools and safety setup you will need

Gather these items before you start: a floor jack rated for your car's weight, at least two jack stands (four is safer), a wrench that fits your damper collar (usually 16mm or 17mm), a wrench for the spring perch locking collar (usually 14mm or 15mm), and a wrench for the top mount bolts (size varies by car). You may also need a spring compressor if you plan to remove the spring entirely, though most height adjustments do not require this.

Always work on a level, solid surface — concrete or asphalt, not gravel or dirt. Place the jack under the frame at a designated jacking point (check your owner's manual for location). Raise the car only high enough to remove the wheel and access the damper. Slide jack stands under the frame on both sides of the car before you get underneath. Never rely on the jack alone — it can fail, and a falling car causes serious injury. Wear eye protection in case dirt or oil falls from above, and have a helper nearby in case you need information.

Testing your adjustments on the road

After you adjust the damping or height, reinstall the wheel, lower the car, and take it for a test drive on a familiar route. Pay attention to how the suspension feels over bumps, how the car handles in corners, and whether it feels stable under braking. A good baseline is the middle setting — if you have not driven the car before, start there and make small changes from that point.

Suspension tuning is not a one-time event. Changes compound — a stiffer front damper combined with a softer rear damper creates a different balance than either alone. Drive for at least 10 to 15 minutes before deciding whether to adjust further, because your perception of the suspension changes as you get used to it. If you make a change and it feels worse, return to the previous setting and try a different direction instead. Keep notes of what setting you used and how it felt, so you can return to a good baseline if you experiment too far.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I adjust the damper while the car is on the ground?

Yes, you can turn the collar without removing the wheel, but it is harder to see and reach. Removing the wheel gives you clear access and lets you see the collar position, making it easier to count clicks accurately. If you adjust on the ground, use wheel chocks to prevent the car from rolling.

What happens if I turn the collar too far in one direction?

Most Toda Fightex dampers have a mechanical stop — you cannot turn the collar past the stiffest or softest setting. If you feel strong resistance, you have reached the limit. Do not force it. If you have gone too far, turn it back in the opposite direction until you feel it click freely again.

Do I need to adjust the damper after changing ride height?

Not necessarily. Ride height and damping stiffness are separate adjustments. You can change one without changing the other. However, if you lower the car significantly, you may want to test the damping again, because a lower ride height can change how the suspension feels over bumps.

How often should I readjust the Toda Fightex?

Suspension settings do not wear out or drift over time under normal driving. Readjust only if you change how you drive the car, want a different feel, or notice the car handling differently than before. If handling changes unexpectedly, check that the damper collar has not loosened — vibration can sometimes rotate it slightly.

What if the damper collar is stuck and will not turn?

explore penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) around the collar and let it soak for 15 to 30 minutes. Try again gently with the correct wrench size — using the wrong size can strip the collar. If it still will not budge, the damper may need service or replacement. Do not force it, as you can damage the internal valve.