Training wheels come off in about 15 minutes with basic tools
Removing training wheels is a straightforward task that requires only an adjustable wrench or socket wrench, a Phillips head screwdriver, and about 15 minutes. Most training wheels bolt directly to the rear axle or frame of the bike, and you straightforward unbolt them, slide them out, and tighten the axle nuts back down. The process is the same whether your bike has one or two training wheels, and you do not need to adjust anything else on the bike afterward.
Before you start, place the bike on a flat surface or work stand so the rear wheel is off the ground and you can access both sides of the axle easily. Have your tools ready and check that the training wheel bolts are not rusted or stuck — if they are, a few minutes with penetrating oil will help.
Key Takeaways
- Training wheels bolt to the rear axle with two bolts (one on each side) that you remove with a wrench matching the bolt size, usually 8mm, 10mm, or 12mm.
- After unbolting the training wheels, slide them out and when ready tighten the axle nuts back down by hand, then with a wrench, so the rear wheel does not shift.
- If bolts are stuck, spray them with penetrating oil and wait 10 to 15 minutes before trying again rather than forcing them.
- Check that the rear axle nuts are tight and the rear wheel is centered in the frame before letting the child ride.
Locate the training wheel bolts and gather your tools
Training wheels attach to the bike at the rear axle, which is the rod that runs through the center of the rear wheel. On each side of the axle, where the training wheel arm connects, there is one bolt. These bolts are usually 8mm, 10mm, or 12mm in diameter — start with 10mm if you are not sure, and switch sizes if it does not fit.
You will also need the wrench or socket that fits those bolts, a Phillips head screwdriver (in case you need to remove a brake cable or derailleur cable that is in the way), and penetrating oil if the bolts look corroded or stuck. Lay out all your tools before you start so you do not have to hunt for them mid-job.
Remove the bolts holding the training wheel arms
Position the bike so you can reach both sides of the rear axle. On the left side of the bike (the side the chain is not on), locate the bolt where the training wheel arm connects to the axle. Place your wrench on that bolt and turn it counterclockwise to loosen it. Do the same on the right side.
Once both bolts are loose enough to turn by hand, unscrew them the rest of the way and set them aside in a safe place — you will not need them again, but it is straightforward to lose small bolts. As you remove the second bolt, the training wheel arm will come free. Slide the entire training wheel assembly away from the bike and set it down.
Tighten the rear axle nuts and check the wheel alignment
With the training wheels off, you will see the rear axle nuts on both sides of the wheel. These nuts hold the wheel in place, and removing the training wheel bolts may have loosened them slightly. Tighten both nuts by hand first, turning them clockwise until they are snug but not so tight that you cannot turn them with a wrench.
Once both nuts are hand-tight, use your wrench to tighten them fully. The wheel should not spin on the axle, and it should not move side to side. Look at the wheel from behind the bike to make sure it is centered in the frame — if it is tilted to one side, loosen the nuts slightly, center the wheel, and tighten again.
What to do if training wheel bolts are stuck
Corroded or rusted bolts will not turn, and forcing them can strip the bolt head or break the bolt inside the axle. If a bolt will not budge, spray it generously with penetrating oil (such as WD-40 or a similar product) and wait 10 to 15 minutes. The oil will seep into the rust and make the bolt easier to turn.
After waiting, try the wrench again with steady, even pressure. If it still will not turn, spray it again and wait another 10 minutes. Once the bolt starts to turn, keep working it back and forth — a quarter turn forward, a quarter turn back — to gradually work it loose. Do not rush this step, because a snapped bolt is much harder to remove than a stuck one.
Inspect the rear wheel and axle before riding
Before the child rides the bike, spin the rear wheel by hand to make sure it turns freely and does not rub against the frame or brake pads. Check that both axle nuts are tight by trying to turn them with your wrench — they should not move at all. Look at the wheel from the side to make sure it is not bent or wobbling.
Also check that the brake cables and derailleur cable (if the bike has gears) are not pinched or damaged where the training wheel was attached. If everything looks good, the bike is ready to ride. The child may feel less stable at first without the training wheels, so consider practicing in a flat, open area before going on streets or hills.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I reattach training wheels later if the child is not ready?
Yes. The bolt holes in the axle do not wear out, so you can bolt the training wheels back on using the same bolts. Make sure the bolts are tight and the training wheels are at the same height on both sides before riding.
What if I lost the training wheel bolts?
You can buy replacement bolts at any hardware store or bike shop. Bring the bike or a photo of the axle so the staff can match the bolt size and thread type. Bolts are inexpensive, usually under $5 for a pair.
Do I need to adjust the brakes or gears after removing training wheels?
No. Removing training wheels does not change how the brakes or gears work. If the brakes or gears were working before, they will work the same way after.
How tight should the rear axle nuts be?
Tight enough that the wheel does not move side to side and does not spin on the axle, but not so tight that you need a lot of force with the wrench. If you can barely turn the nut by hand after tightening with a wrench, it is tight enough.