Where to find your car's value right now

Your car's value is available from three main sources: Kelley Blue Book (kbb.com), NADA Guides (nadaguides.com), and Edmunds (edmunds.com). Each pulls from actual sales data and auction records, and each will give you a range rather than a single number. The range exists because condition, mileage, and local demand all shift the price.

To get a value from any of these sites, you enter your vehicle's year, make, model, trim level, mileage, and condition. Condition matters most: "Fair" means visible wear, dents, or mechanical issues; "Good" means normal wear for the age; "Excellent" means well-maintained with minimal wear. The sites will ask you to describe the interior, exterior, and whether the engine runs smoothly. Answer honestly — inflating condition will give you a number that dealers won't match.

All three sites are free and take about five minutes. They also show you what dealers in your area are actually asking for similar cars, which is different from what your car is worth — dealers mark up used inventory. Your car's value sits between what a private buyer would pay and what a dealer would offer you on trade-in.

Key Takeaways

  • Kelley Blue Book, NADA Guides, and Edmunds all provide free value estimates based on year, make, model, mileage, and condition.
  • Your car's value is a range, not a single number, because condition and local demand shift the price by hundreds or thousands of dollars.
  • A private sale price is usually higher than a trade-in offer, and a dealer's asking price is higher than either.
  • Mileage and condition are the two factors that move the value most; a well-maintained car with lower miles is worth significantly more than a neglected one.

Why the three sites give different numbers

Kelley Blue Book, NADA, and Edmunds all use different data sources and weighting methods. Kelley pulls heavily from auction data and dealer transactions. NADA uses insurance company data and dealer reports. Edmunds uses its own listing data plus third-party sources. The differences are usually within a few hundred dollars, but on older or less common vehicles, they can spread wider.

The best practice is to check all three and treat the middle value as your working number. If one site is far outside the range of the other two, that site may have incomplete data for your specific vehicle. You can also check local classified listings — Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, and AutoTrader — to see what similar cars are actually listed for in your area. Listings are asking prices, not sold prices, but they show you the market reality where you live.

How condition affects your number

Condition is the single biggest variable after mileage. A 2018 Honda Civic with 40,000 miles in excellent condition might be worth $18,000 to $20,000. The same car with 80,000 miles and fair condition might be worth $12,000 to $14,000. The difference is not just the extra 40,000 miles — it is also what those miles did to the brakes, transmission, and interior.

When you describe condition to the valuation sites, be specific about what you see. Dents, scratches, and worn upholstery all count as wear. Mechanical issues — a check engine light, transmission hesitation, or suspension noise — drop the value more than cosmetic damage because they signal repair costs ahead. If you are unsure whether something is normal wear or a problem, get a pre-purchase inspection from a mechanic before you list the car or trade it in. That $150 inspection can prevent you from underpricing a sound car or overpricing one with hidden damage.

Trade-in value versus private sale value

Dealers offer less than private buyers because they have to recondition the car, hold it on the lot, and absorb the risk if it does not sell. A car worth $15,000 in a private sale might fetch $12,000 to $13,000 as a trade-in. The gap is the dealer's margin for those costs and risks.

If you are trading in, get the value estimate before you go to the dealership. Dealers will sometimes offer you a higher trade-in value to offset a lower price on the car you are buying, which makes the deal look better on paper but does not change what you actually pay. Knowing your car's real value keeps you from being moved by that tactic. If the trade-in offer is significantly lower than the market value you found, ask the dealer why — sometimes there is a legitimate reason, like frame damage the valuation sites did not account for, but sometimes it is just negotiating room.

What to do if your car has high mileage or damage

High mileage — usually defined as over 100,000 miles — drops value sharply because buyers worry about transmission and engine life. Damage from accidents, flood, or fire also tanks the value, even if the car runs. The valuation sites have fields for these issues, and you must disclose them honestly if you are selling privately. A car with a salvage title or flood history is worth 40 to 60 percent less than an equivalent car without that history.

If your car has significant damage or very high mileage, the three major sites may not give you an accurate number because they are built for typical used cars. In that case, check local listings for similar cars with the same issues, or contact a few dealers and ask what they would offer. Some dealers specialize in high-mileage or damaged vehicles and may offer more than a mainstream dealer would. You can also contact a junk car buyer if the car is no longer reliable — they pay based on weight and scrap metal value, which is usually $200 to $500, but it is a quick way to get rid of a car that is not worth fixing.

Using your value estimate for insurance and taxes

Your car's value matters for insurance purposes if you carry comprehensive or collision coverage. The insurance company will use its own valuation — usually similar to Kelley or NADA — to determine what they will pay if the car is totaled. You cannot change that number, but you can check it against the market value you found to make sure it is reasonable. If your insurer's estimate is far below market value, contact them and ask how they arrived at it.

For tax purposes, some states use the car's fair market value to calculate sales tax on a trade-in. If you are trading in a car, the dealer will usually handle this, but knowing the value helps you spot errors. A few states also use vehicle value for property tax calculations, though this is less common. Check your state's tax rules if you are buying or selling.

When to get a professional appraisal

A professional appraisal from a certified appraiser costs $100 to $300 and is useful in a few situations. If you are selling a high-value car, a classic car, or a vehicle with an unusual history, an appraisal gives you a defensible number and can help you price it accurately. If you are in a dispute with an insurance company over a totaled car's value, an independent appraisal can support your case. If you are donating a car to charity, some charities require an appraisal for tax deduction purposes.

For most routine situations — trading in a standard used car, selling privately, or just checking what your car is worth — the free online tools are sufficient. An appraisal is overkill unless there is money or a legal question at stake.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do the three valuation sites give me different numbers?

Each site uses different data sources and algorithms. Kelley Blue Book pulls from auctions, NADA from insurance data, and Edmunds from its own listings. The differences are usually a few hundred dollars. Check all three and use the middle value as your baseline.

Is the value the sites show me what a dealer will offer me?

No. The sites show fair market value, which is what a private buyer would pay. Dealers offer 10 to 20 percent less because they have to recondition and resell the car. If you are trading in, expect an offer below the market value you see online.

How much does mileage affect my car's value?

Mileage is one of the two biggest factors, along with condition. Each additional 10,000 miles typically reduces value by 5 to 10 percent, depending on the car's age and type. A well-maintained car with lower miles is worth significantly more than a neglected one with higher miles.

What if my car has been in an accident?

Accident history reduces value even if the car was repaired. The amount depends on the severity and whether the title was branded as salvage. Check the valuation sites' fields for accident history, and disclose it if you are selling privately. Buyers will research the history anyway through Carfax or AutoCheck.

Can I use the online value to negotiate with a dealer?

Yes. Bring the printout from Kelley, NADA, or Edmunds to the dealership and use it as a reference point. Dealers know these sites exist and expect customers to have done research. A significant gap between the online value and the dealer's offer is worth questioning.