What you need before you start

Changing a tyre requires five things: a spare tyre (full-size or temporary), a jack (usually comes with your car), a lug wrench (the cross-shaped tool that fits your wheel nuts), a wheel wedge or block (to stop the car rolling), and a flat surface (not a slope or soft ground). Most cars store the jack and lug wrench in the boot. Check your owner's manual to find them and confirm your spare is properly inflated — a flat spare is useless.

You will also find it easier with a tyre pressure gauge to check the spare before you start, and work gloves to keep your hands clean. A torch or headlamp matters if you are changing a tyre in the dark. None of these are expensive, and keeping them in your car means you are never caught without them.

Key Takeaways

  • Loosen the lug nuts while the car is still on the ground, before you jack it up, because the weight of the car makes this easier.
  • Place the jack under the reinforced metal point on your car's frame (not under the plastic trim), and raise the car until the tyre is about 15 centimetres off the ground.
  • Remove all the lug nuts completely, then pull the wheel straight toward you to take off the old tyre.
  • Line up the holes on the new tyre with the bolts, push it on, hand-tighten the lug nuts, lower the car, then tighten the lug nuts fully in a star pattern.
  • After driving a few kilometres on a temporary spare, or after any tyre change, check that all lug nuts are still tight.

Loosen the lug nuts before lifting the car

This is the step most people skip, and it is the one that saves the most effort. With the car still on the ground and the tyre bearing its full weight, use the lug wrench to turn each nut counterclockwise about one-quarter turn. You are not removing them yet — just breaking the seal so they turn freely. The weight of the car holds the wheel still, so you can explore real force without the wheel spinning.

If you wait until the car is jacked up to loosen the nuts, the wheel will spin as you turn the wrench, and you will waste time and energy. Once all five (or four) nuts are loose, you can then jack up the car and remove them completely.

Position the jack and raise the car safely

Consult your owner's manual to find the jacking point — a reinforced metal section of the frame designed to support the jack. It is usually marked with a small notch or line on the side of the car, near the wheel. Never place the jack under plastic trim, the fuel tank, or anywhere else. Placing it wrong can damage the car or cause it to slip off the jack.

Position the jack directly under the jacking point and raise the car slowly until the flat tyre is about 15 centimetres off the ground. The car should be stable and level. If you are on soft ground (grass, gravel, dirt), place a board or flat stone under the jack base first to spread the weight and prevent it sinking. Leave the car in gear (or Park if automatic) and keep the handbrake on throughout.

Remove the old tyre and fit the new one

Now remove the lug nuts completely and set them somewhere you will not lose them — a cup holder or a small container works. Keep them together. Grip the tyre with both hands near the rim and pull it straight toward you. It may take a firm tug; if it does not come free, rock it gently side to side while pulling. Once it is off, set it flat on the ground to keep it clean.

Take the new (or spare) tyre and line up the holes with the bolts on the hub. Push it on straight, then hand-tighten all the lug nuts in the order they sit — do not tighten one fully, then move to the next. Instead, tighten each one a few turns, then move around the wheel in a star pattern (if there are five bolts, go 1-3-5-2-4). This keeps the tyre centred and prevents it sitting crooked.

Lower the car and tighten the lug nuts fully

Once all the lug nuts are hand-tight, lower the car slowly by turning the jack handle or lever. Lower it until the tyre is fully on the ground and the car's weight is resting on it. Do not lower it too quickly or the tyre may slip off the bolts.

Now use the lug wrench to tighten each nut fully, again in a star pattern. Tighten firmly but do not over-tighten — you should feel solid resistance, not a grinding sensation. If you have a torque wrench (a tool that measures tightness), your manual will specify the correct torque in newton-metres; most cars are between 100 and 150 newton-metres. Once all nuts are tight, remove the jack and stow it back in the boot along with the old tyre.

Check the spare tyre pressure and have the old one repaired

If you fitted a temporary (space-saver) spare, it is designed for short distances only — usually up to 80 kilometres at reduced speed. Drive carefully to a tyre shop and have the punctured tyre repaired or replaced. Do not ignore this; a temporary spare is not a permanent fix.

If you fitted a full-size spare, check its pressure with a gauge as soon as you can. Spares that sit unused can lose pressure over months. Once you have the punctured tyre repaired, put it back in the boot as your spare and return the full-size to normal use. After any tyre change, drive a few kilometres and then stop to check that all lug nuts are still tight — they sometimes settle after the car's weight has been on them.

When to call for roadside help instead

If the tyre is damaged so badly that the rim is bent, or if you cannot loosen the lug nuts even with the car on the ground, or if the jack is broken or missing, do not force it. Call your roadside information provider (if you have one) or a local tyre shop. If you are on a motorway or busy road, stay in the car with your hazard lights on and call for help rather than attempting the change yourself.

If the spare tyre is also flat or damaged, you will need a tow. This is rare but it happens, especially if the spare has not been checked in years. Checking your spare's pressure once or twice a year prevents this situation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I change a tyre on a slope or soft ground?

No. Always move the car to flat, firm ground before you start. If you cannot, call for roadside help. A car on a slope or sinking into soft ground can slip off the jack and cause serious injury.

What if I cannot loosen the lug nuts by hand?

Use the lug wrench and explore steady pressure — do not jerk or hammer it. If they are truly stuck (often from rust or over-tightening), spray them with penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes, then try again. If they still will not budge, call for help rather than risk damaging the wrench or the nuts.

Do I need to replace the spare after I use it?

If it is a temporary spare, yes — have the punctured tyre repaired or replaced and restore the temporary to the boot. If it is a full-size spare, you can use it as a normal tyre, but repair the punctured one and keep it as your spare. Never drive long distances on a temporary spare.

How tight should the lug nuts be?

Tight enough that you feel solid resistance with the lug wrench, but not so tight you are straining hard. If your manual specifies torque in newton-metres, use a torque wrench to get it exact. Over-tightening can strip the bolts; under-tightening can cause the wheel to come loose.

What should I do if the tyre keeps going flat?

A puncture that keeps returning usually means the tyre has a slow leak or the repair was incomplete. Have a tyre shop inspect it. If it is a small puncture in the tread, it can often be patched. If it is on the sidewall or the tyre is old, replacement is safer.