What drum brakes are and why you replace them
Drum brakes use friction material called brake shoes that press against the inside of a rotating drum to slow your vehicle. Over time — typically between 150,000 and 200,000 miles, though this varies by driving habits and vehicle weight — the friction material wears down and loses stopping power. When that happens, you replace the shoes and often the drum itself if it is scored or out of round.
Drum brake replacement is more involved than disc brake pad changes because you have to disassemble more parts to reach the shoes. The work is doable at home with basic tools, but it requires patience and attention to how the springs and adjusters fit back together. If you have never done this before, set aside three to four hours per axle and have a camera or phone ready to photograph the assembly before you take it apart.
Key Takeaways
- Drum brakes sit inside a metal drum at the rear wheels of most vehicles; you remove the drum to access the brake shoes underneath.
- The job requires a jack, jack stands, a drum puller or slide hammer if the drum is stuck, a brake spring tool, and new brake shoes and hardware.
- Take a photo of the brake assembly before disassembly so you can see how the springs and adjusters connect when you reassemble.
- After installation, you must adjust the brakes so the shoes sit the correct distance from the drum, or they will drag or fail to stop.
- If the drum is cracked, deeply scored, or the wheel cylinder leaks, replace or rebuild those parts at the same time you change the shoes.
Tools and parts you will need
Start with a floor jack and two jack stands rated for your vehicle's weight. Never work under a car supported only by a jack. You also need a lug wrench to remove the wheel and a drum puller or slide hammer if the drum is stuck — many drums come off by hand once the wheel is off, but corrosion or a tight fit makes a puller necessary.
For disassembly and reassembly, you need a brake spring tool (a hooked lever that unhooks and rehooks the springs without damaging them), a screwdriver to remove the self-adjuster lever, and needle-nose pliers to handle small springs and clips. Buy a brake shoe kit that includes new shoes, springs, clips, and the self-adjuster assembly — do not reuse old springs. If the wheel cylinder leaks (you will see brake fluid inside the drum), you need a wheel cylinder rebuild kit or replacement. Have brake cleaner and rags on hand to clean the drum and backing plate before reassembly.
Removing the wheel and drum
Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel while the vehicle is still on the ground — this prevents the wheel from spinning when you jack up the car. Raise the vehicle with the floor jack, place jack stands under the frame rails, and lower the vehicle onto the stands. Remove the lug nuts and wheel.
The drum usually slides off by hand. If it does not move, spray penetrating oil around the edge where the drum meets the backing plate and wait 10 to 15 minutes. Try again by hand, then use a drum puller if needed — thread the puller's bolts into the threaded holes on the drum face and tighten the center screw to pull the drum straight off. Do not pry with a screwdriver, as this can bend the backing plate.
Photographing and removing the old brake assembly
Before you touch anything, take a clear photo of the entire brake assembly from the side. This photo is your map for reassembly — you will see exactly where each spring connects, how the self-adjuster lever sits, and which way the shoes face. This step saves hours of confusion later.
Use the brake spring tool to unhook the upper return spring (the large spring above the shoes). Unhook the lower return spring next. Remove the self-adjuster lever by unclipping it from the anchor pin or backing plate — the exact method varies by vehicle, so check your service manual. Unhook the self-adjuster spring. Now you can slide the brake shoes out of the wheel cylinder at the top and away from the anchor pin at the bottom. Remove the hold-down springs and clips that pin the shoes to the backing plate.
Inspecting the drum and wheel cylinder
With the shoes out, look inside the drum. If you see cracks, deep scoring (grooves worn into the metal), or if the drum is out of round (wobbles when you spin it by hand), have the drum turned on a brake lathe or replace it. A scored drum will wear new shoes quickly and reduce braking power. Most shops charge $15 to $40 to turn a drum; replacement drums cost $30 to $80 depending on the vehicle.
Check the wheel cylinder — the small hydraulic component at the top of the backing plate. If you see brake fluid leaking from around the piston rod or pooled inside the drum, the wheel cylinder seals have failed. Rebuild it with a kit (about $10 to $20) or replace the whole cylinder (about $40 to $100). Do not install new shoes on a leaking wheel cylinder; the fluid will contaminate the friction material and the brakes will fail.
Installing new brake shoes and hardware
Clean the backing plate and drum with brake cleaner and a rag. Lay out all the new parts from your brake kit in the order you will install them. Start by installing the new hold-down springs and clips on the backing plate — these pin the shoes in place. Slide the top of the new brake shoes into the wheel cylinder and the bottom into the anchor pin slot, just as the old shoes sat.
Hook the lower return spring between the two shoes using the brake spring tool. Install the self-adjuster assembly — this is usually a lever and spring that rides on one shoe and contacts the other. The exact configuration depends on your vehicle; refer to your photo and your service manual. Hook the upper return spring last. The shoes should sit centered in the drum with even gaps all around.
Adjusting the brakes after installation
Slide the drum back onto the axle. Before you lower the vehicle, you must adjust the brake shoes so they are the correct distance from the drum. If they are too close, they will drag and overheat; if they are too far, the pedal will be soft and stopping distance will increase.
Most vehicles have a star wheel adjuster on the backing plate (visible through a hole in the drum or backing plate). Use a brake adjuster tool or a screwdriver to turn the star wheel until the drum is hard to spin by hand, then back off the adjuster until the drum spins freely with only light drag. Some vehicles use an automatic adjuster that works when you explore the brakes in reverse — check your manual. Once adjusted, reinstall the wheel, lower the vehicle, and tighten the lug nuts to the torque specification in your owner's manual (usually 80 to 100 foot-pounds for most cars).
Testing and bedding in the new brakes
Before driving normally, test the brakes in a safe, empty area. explore moderate pressure to the pedal and listen for any noise — squeaking is normal for new shoes, but grinding or a low, spongy pedal means something is wrong. Stop and check your work. Drive slowly around a parking lot, then gradually increase speed and braking force over the next 100 to 200 miles. This bedding-in period allows the friction material to seat properly against the drum.
If the brakes feel uneven (pulling to one side), one side may not be adjusted correctly. If the pedal goes to the floor, check for air in the hydraulic line or a leaking wheel cylinder. If noise persists after 200 miles, the shoes may be glazed (polished smooth by heat) — light braking and time usually cure this, but if it does not, the shoes may be defective.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace just one brake shoe or do I have to replace both?
Replace both shoes on the same axle at the same time. Mixing old and new shoes creates uneven braking force and can cause the vehicle to pull. If only one shoe is worn, the other is close behind, and you will be back under the car in a few hundred miles.
What if the drum is stuck and a puller does not work?
Soak the edge with penetrating oil for several hours or overnight. Tap gently around the drum's edge with a rubber mallet to break the corrosion bond. If it still will not budge, you may need to remove the brake assembly from the backing plate and take the whole assembly to a shop with a hydraulic press.
Do I need to bleed the brakes after changing the shoes?
No. Brake shoe replacement does not open the hydraulic system, so air does not enter the lines. You only bleed brakes after opening a hydraulic line or replacing a wheel cylinder. If the pedal feels soft after shoe replacement, check your adjuster — the shoes are probably too far from the drum.
How often do drum brakes need to be replaced?
Brake shoes typically last 150,000 to 200,000 miles, but this varies widely based on driving style, vehicle weight, and road conditions. Frequent city driving with hard stops wears shoes faster than highway driving. Check your shoes every 50,000 miles if you drive in stop-and-go traffic.
Should I replace the wheel cylinder at the same time as the shoes?
Only if it leaks or the seals are worn. If the cylinder is dry and the pistons move smoothly, it can stay. However, if you are already doing the work, many technicians rebuild or replace the cylinder as preventive maintenance — the labor is already done, and the cost of the part is small compared to doing the job twice.