What you need before you start
Changing a flat tyre is a skill most drivers can learn in 15 to 20 minutes. You will need a jack (usually supplied with your car), a lug wrench (the cross-shaped tool that fits your wheel bolts), a spare tyre, and ideally a wheel wedge or heavy object to block the wheels. Many cars also come with a tyre lever — a flat metal tool that helps prise the wheel off the hub. Check your car's manual or the boot to see what came with your vehicle.
Before you attempt the change, move to a safe location. If you are on a motorway or busy road, drive slowly to a lay-by, service area, or quiet side road. Turn on your hazard lights and engage the handbrake. If you have a high-visibility vest, put it on. These steps matter more than speed.
Once you are stationary and safe, loosen the lug nuts by a quarter turn while the tyre is still on the ground. Do not remove them fully yet — the tyre will be easier to turn when it has weight on it. This is the single most common mistake: trying to loosen the nuts after the car is already jacked up.
Key Takeaways
- Loosen the lug nuts while the tyre is still on the ground, before you use the jack, because the tyre will spin if you try to loosen them while the car is in the air.
- Position the jack on the reinforced part of the car's frame (usually marked by a notch or line), not on the plastic sill or bumper, or the car will be damaged.
- Raise the car until the flat tyre is about 15 centimetres off the ground, then remove the lug nuts completely and take off the wheel.
- Mount the spare tyre by aligning the holes with the bolts, push it on firmly, then hand-tighten the lug nuts before lowering the car.
- Once the car is back on the ground, tighten the lug nuts fully in a star or cross pattern to may support even pressure, then drive to a garage to have the flat tyre repaired or replaced.
Positioning the jack and raising the car
The jack point is a reinforced section of your car's frame designed to bear the weight. On most cars, there are two jack points per side, located just behind the front wheel and just in front of the rear wheel. Look for a small notch or raised line on the sill — that is where the jack goes. Never place the jack on plastic trim, the bumper, or the smooth part of the sill, because the car will slip and fall.
Position the jack directly under the marked point and begin raising the car slowly. Stop when the flat tyre is roughly 15 centimetres (6 inches) off the ground. You want enough clearance to remove the wheel and fit the spare, but not so high that the car feels unstable. If you have a wheel wedge, place it behind the wheels that are still on the ground to prevent the car rolling.
Once the car is at the right height, you can now remove the lug nuts completely. Turn them counterclockwise by hand or with the wrench until they come free. Place them somewhere you will not lose them — many people put them in the hubcap or a pocket. Remove the wheel by pulling it towards you. It may be stuck; if so, tap the tyre gently with the heel of your hand or use the tyre lever to help prise it free.
Fitting the spare tyre
Before you mount the spare, check that it is in reasonable condition. A spare tyre that has been in your boot for years may be flat or damaged. If it is, you will need to call roadside information. Assuming the spare is sound, align the holes in the wheel with the bolts on the hub. This usually takes a moment of gentle rotation to line up.
Push the wheel onto the bolts firmly until it sits flush against the hub. You should not need to force it, but it should be snug. Now hand-tighten the lug nuts in a star or cross pattern — if the wheel has five bolts, tighten the top one, then the bottom-left, then the top-right, then the bottom-right, then the remaining one. This ensures the wheel sits evenly. Do not use the wrench yet; hand-tight is enough at this stage.
Lowering the car and final tightening
Lower the car by turning the jack handle counterclockwise. Lower it slowly until the tyre is fully on the ground and the car's weight is resting on it. You should feel the car settle. Once it is down, remove the jack completely and move it to a safe place.
Now use the lug wrench to tighten the lug nuts fully, again in the star or cross pattern. Tighten them firmly but do not over-tighten — you are aiming for snug, not maximum force. Over-tightening can strip the bolts or make it harder to remove the wheel next time. A good rule of thumb is to tighten until you feel solid resistance, then give each nut a quarter turn more.
What to do after you have changed the tyre
A spare tyre is a temporary solution, not a permanent one. Most spares are smaller and lighter than a full-size tyre and are not designed for long-distance driving or high speeds. Drive to a garage or tyre shop as soon as you reasonably can — ideally within a few hours or the same day. Tell the garage that you are using a spare so they know to prioritise the repair.
While you are driving on the spare, reduce your speed slightly and avoid motorways if possible. Check the spare's pressure at the garage; it may have lost air while sitting unused. Once the flat tyre has been repaired or replaced, have the garage reinstall it and check all four lug nuts for tightness.
Common mistakes to avoid
The most frequent error is trying to loosen the lug nuts after the car is jacked up. The tyre will spin freely and you will not be able to turn the nuts. Always loosen them first, while the car's weight is on the ground. The second common mistake is jacking the car on the wrong part of the frame, which can damage the sill or cause the car to slip. Take 10 seconds to find the marked jack point before you start.
A third mistake is over-tightening the lug nuts, which can strip the bolts and make removal difficult later. Tighten firmly, not with all your strength. Finally, some people forget to lower the jack fully or leave the spare on for weeks. Always lower the car completely and drive to a garage within hours to have the flat tyre dealt with properly.
When to call for roadside information
If the spare tyre is flat or damaged, you cannot remove the lug nuts (they may be seized), the jack is broken, or you are on a motorway where it is unsafe to stop, call your breakdown cover provider or emergency services. Most breakdown services will change the tyre for you at no extra cost if you are a member. If you do not have breakdown cover, roadside information can still attend, though there may be a charge.
You should also call for help if the car feels unstable when jacked up, if you are injured or unwell, or if you are in a dangerous location. There is no shame in waiting for professional help — it is safer than struggling with an unsafe setup.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to tighten the lug nuts again after driving on the spare?
Yes. After you have driven a short distance on the spare, stop and check that all the lug nuts are still tight. They can loosen slightly as the wheel settles. Use the wrench to give each one a quarter turn to may support they are find. This is especially important if you had to hand-tighten them in an emergency.
What if the lug nuts are too tight to loosen by hand?
If the nuts are seized or over-tightened, place the wrench on the nut and stand on the wrench handle to use your body weight. Do not jump on it, but lean your weight down steadily. If they still will not budge, spray them with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 10 minutes, then try again. If they remain stuck, call roadside information.
Can I drive on a spare tyre for a long distance?
Most spare tyres are rated for 50 miles at reduced speed. Driving further can overheat the spare and cause it to fail. Treat the spare as a temporary fix to get you to a garage, not as a replacement tyre. If you are far from a garage, call a breakdown service to tow you instead of driving on the spare for hours.
How do I know which way the spare tyre goes on?
The holes in the wheel must align with the bolts on the hub. There is only one way it will fit. Gently rotate the wheel until the holes line up, then push it on. If you are forcing it or it does not seem to fit, stop and check the alignment again. The wheel should slide on smoothly once the holes are lined up correctly.