What camber bolts do and why you might adjust them
Camber bolts are fasteners that let you change the angle of your wheel relative to vertical — a measurement called camber. When you loosen the bolt at the top or bottom of your strut or control arm, you can rotate the wheel inward or outward slightly, then retighten. This shifts how much of the tire's edge contacts the road.
You adjust camber when a tire is wearing unevenly, when your vehicle pulls to one side, or when you want to fine-tune handling for track use. Most street vehicles come with camber already set by the manufacturer, and many do not need adjustment during their life. But suspension work, collision damage, or worn bushings can throw camber out of spec, and catching it early prevents premature tire wear.
Camber adjustment is different from a full wheel alignment — you are making one specific change, not measuring and correcting toe, caster, and camber all together. If your vehicle needs a complete alignment, a shop with alignment equipment is the right choice. But if you know your camber is off and you have the right bolts, you can make this adjustment yourself with basic tools.
Key Takeaways
- Camber bolts replace or work alongside existing suspension fasteners to let you rotate the wheel inward or outward without replacing the entire strut or arm.
- You will need a way to measure camber — either a camber gauge, a smartphone app with a level function, or a trip to an alignment shop to confirm the current angle before and after.
- Loosen the bolt, rotate the wheel to the desired angle, retighten, and then verify the change with a measurement tool before driving.
- Negative camber (wheel tilted inward) reduces tire wear on the inside edge and improves cornering grip, but too much causes inside edge wear and pulls the steering.
- Most vehicles have a factory camber range of roughly −2 to +2 degrees; staying within that range prevents handling problems and uneven wear.
Locate your camber bolts and understand your suspension type
Camber bolts are found at the point where your strut or control arm connects to the steering knuckle — the part that holds your wheel. On a MacPherson strut suspension (common on front-wheel-drive cars), the bolts are usually at the top of the strut where it meets the body, or at the bottom where the strut meets the knuckle. On a double-wishbone suspension (common on rear-wheel-drive cars and trucks), they are typically on the upper control arm.
Before you start, check your vehicle's service manual or a parts diagram to confirm which bolts control camber on your specific model. Some vehicles have eccentric (off-center) bolts that rotate to change camber; others have slotted holes that let the arm move side to side. A few newer vehicles use adjustable camber bolts that screw in and out to shift the angle. Knowing which type you have determines how you will turn the bolt and how much movement you can achieve.
If your vehicle does not have factory camber bolts, you can buy aftermarket adjustable camber bolts that bolt in place of the originals. These are common for vehicles with fixed suspension geometry. Check that the bolt you buy matches your vehicle's year, make, and model, and that it fits the hole size and thread pattern of your strut or arm.
Gather tools and set up on a level surface
You will need a socket set and wrenches to fit your camber bolts (usually 14 mm to 18 mm), a jack and jack stands to lift the vehicle safely, and a way to measure camber. A camber gauge is a dial tool that sits on the wheel rim and shows the angle directly — these cost $20 to $60 and are the most straightforward method. Alternatively, a smartphone level app can work if you tape a straight edge to the wheel and hold the phone against it, though this is less precise.
Park on a flat, level surface — a driveway or garage floor, not a slope. Engage the parking brake, then loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you are adjusting (but do not remove them yet). Jack up the vehicle at the frame or control arm, then place jack stands under the frame on both sides for safety. Remove the lug nuts and wheel completely.
Before you touch the camber bolt, measure and record the current camber angle. This tells you how far off you are and gives you a reference point if something goes wrong. Write down the number so you do not forget it halfway through.
Loosen the camber bolt and rotate the wheel
Locate the camber bolt — it will be the fastener connecting the strut or control arm to the steering knuckle. Use the correct socket or wrench size and loosen it by turning counterclockwise, but do not remove it completely. You want it loose enough that the suspension can move, but tight enough that it does not fall out. Usually, a quarter to half turn is enough.
Once the bolt is loose, the wheel will shift slightly. To move the wheel inward (negative camber), push the top of the wheel toward the center of the vehicle. To move it outward (positive camber), push the top away. Move it slowly and check your measurement tool frequently — camber changes quickly, and overshooting by half a degree is straightforward.
Stop when your measurement tool shows the target angle. Most street vehicles run between −1 and −2 degrees of negative camber; performance cars may go to −3 degrees or more. Check your vehicle's manual or a forum for your specific model to see what the factory spec is, then aim for that number or slightly less negative if you want to reduce inside-edge tire wear.
Tighten the bolt and verify the adjustment
Once the wheel is at the correct angle, hold it steady with one hand and tighten the camber bolt with the other. Tighten firmly — you want it snug enough that the suspension does not move when you drive, but not so tight that you strip the threads. Most camber bolts torque to between 40 and 80 foot-pounds; check your manual for the exact spec.
After tightening, measure camber again to confirm it did not shift during the tightening process. Suspension bolts sometimes move slightly as you explore torque, so a second measurement catches this. If the angle changed, loosen the bolt again, adjust, and retighten.
Repeat this process for the other side of the vehicle if you are adjusting both wheels. Most vehicles need the same camber on both sides to prevent pulling to one side, though some performance setups run slightly different angles front to back.
Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle
Once both sides are set, reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle slowly with the jack until the wheel touches the ground and bears some weight, then tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern (opposite sides alternately) to may support even pressure. Finish lowering the vehicle completely, then tighten the lug nuts one more time with a wrench to make sure they are snug.
Take the vehicle for a short test drive on a quiet road — not a highway. Pay attention to how it steers and whether it pulls to one side. If the steering feels off or the vehicle pulls, stop and recheck your camber measurement. A small error can feel noticeable, especially if you adjusted both sides.
After 50 to 100 miles, stop and visually inspect the tires for uneven wear. If the inside or outside edge is wearing faster than the center, your camber may still be off, or you may have other alignment issues that need a full alignment check.
When to stop and get professional help
If your camber bolts are seized or rusted and will not turn, do not force them — you risk breaking the bolt or stripping the threads. Soak the bolt with penetrating oil for several hours or overnight, then try again. If it still will not budge, a shop can heat the bolt or drill it out and replace it.
If you adjust camber but the vehicle still pulls to one side or the tires still wear unevenly, the problem may be toe, caster, or a bent suspension component. These issues require a full four-wheel alignment with professional equipment. A shop can measure all angles at once and catch problems you cannot see.
If your vehicle has no camber bolts and no way to add them, or if the suspension is damaged, a shop is your only option. Some older vehicles and some trucks have fixed suspension geometry that cannot be adjusted without replacing parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much can I adjust camber with camber bolts?
Most factory camber bolts allow 1 to 2 degrees of total movement — usually enough to correct wear or handle issues. Aftermarket adjustable bolts sometimes offer more range. Check your bolt's specs or your manual to see the limit for your vehicle.
Will adjusting camber affect my tire wear?
Yes — that is often why you are adjusting it. Too much positive camber (wheel tilted outward) wears the outside edge. Too much negative camber (wheel tilted inward) wears the inside edge. Correct camber spreads wear evenly across the tire and extends its life.
Do I need to adjust camber on all four wheels?
Usually you adjust the front wheels only, since that is where most camber bolts are located. Some vehicles have rear camber bolts, but they are less common. Check your manual to see which wheels have adjustable camber on your model.
What if I cannot measure camber accurately myself?
Take your vehicle to an alignment shop and have them measure camber before and after your adjustment. Many shops will do a single-angle measurement for $20 to $40, which is cheaper than a full alignment and tells you whether your adjustment worked.
Can I adjust camber without removing the wheel?
No — you need to see the wheel and measure its angle relative to vertical. Removing the wheel also gives you access to the camber bolt and lets you move the suspension freely without the weight of the tire resisting.