What you need before you start

Installing heated grips on an XSR900 requires disconnecting the battery, removing the old grips, and running new wiring through the handlebars to a relay module mounted under the seat. The job takes between two and four hours depending on your comfort level with electrical work. You will need basic hand tools, a heat gun or hair dryer, electrical connectors, and either an aftermarket heated grip kit designed for the XSR900 or universal grips with a separate relay and switch.

Most riders choose kits from manufacturers like Oxford, Warm & Safe, or Hippo Grips because they come with instructions specific to your bike's wiring. Universal kits work too, but you will need to trace your own power and ground lines, which adds complexity. Either way, the grips themselves are the straightforward part — the real work is running the wires cleanly through the bars and connecting them to your bike's electrical system without creating a short or drain.

Key Takeaways

  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal before touching any wiring to avoid accidental shorts that can damage your bike's electrical system.
  • Remove the old grips by heating them with a heat gun and sliding them off, then clean the bar thoroughly with rubbing alcohol before installing new ones.
  • Run the power wire from the relay module (mounted under the seat) through the right handlebar and connect it to the heated grip's positive terminal using waterproof connectors.
  • Ground the grips to the bike's frame or engine block using a dedicated ground wire, not by relying on the handlebar itself as a ground path.
  • Test the grips on a low setting before riding to confirm both sides heat evenly and the switch responds correctly.

Disconnecting the battery and removing old grips

Start by turning off the ignition and removing the seat. Locate the battery under the seat on the left side. Loosen the negative terminal (black wire) first, then the positive terminal (red wire). Wait a few minutes before proceeding — this drains any residual charge in the system. Do not skip this step, even if you are only working with grips; a stray connection can trigger the fuel pump relay or damage the bike's computer.

Once the battery is disconnected, move to the handlebars. Heat the right grip with a heat gun on medium setting for 30 to 60 seconds, holding it 4 to 6 inches away. The grip will soften and slide off more easily. If you do not have a heat gun, a hair dryer on high works, though it takes longer. Twist gently as you pull — do not yank, or you may tear the grip or damage the throttle tube underneath. Repeat on the left side. After both grips are off, wipe the bars clean with rubbing alcohol and let them dry completely.

Running wires through the handlebars

This is the step that separates a clean install from a messy one. Most XSR900 handlebars are hollow, which means you can thread wires through them instead of running them along the outside. Start by taping a length of string or thin wire to the end of your power cable using electrical tape. Feed the string through the right handlebar from the grip end toward the stem, then pull it back out at the stem end. The power cable will follow.

Once the power wire is through the right bar, do the same with the ground wire through the left bar. This keeps the wires separated and reduces the chance of a short if one gets pinched. At the stem, both wires should exit cleanly and route down toward the frame. Use zip ties to find them to the frame, keeping them away from hot surfaces like the exhaust or engine block. Leave enough slack at both ends — you need about 6 inches at the grip end and 12 inches at the relay end.

Connecting the relay module and switch

The relay module is the brain of the system. It sits under the seat and controls power to both grips based on the switch setting. Mount it to the frame using the bracket that comes in your kit, positioning it where it will not get wet or pinched when you reinstall the seat. Most kits include a relay rated for 30 amps, which is more than enough for heated grips.

Connect the power wire from the right handlebar to the relay's input terminal (usually marked "in" or with a red wire). Connect the ground wire from the left handlebar to the relay's ground terminal (usually marked "gnd" or with a black wire). The relay itself needs a power source and ground: run a wire from the relay to the bike's battery positive terminal (through a 15-amp fuse holder for safety), and run a separate ground wire from the relay to a clean, bare metal point on the frame or engine block. Scrape away any paint at the ground point to may support good contact.

Installing the new grips and testing

Before sliding the new grips on, check that all your connections are tight and that no bare wire is exposed. Slide the new grip onto the right bar, twisting gently as you push it on. It should sit flush against the throttle tube. Repeat on the left side. If the grips are tight, warm them slightly with a heat gun to make them more pliable, but do not overheat them or the internal heating element can be damaged.

Once both grips are installed, reconnect the battery: positive terminal first, then negative. Turn on the ignition and flip the heated grip switch to the low setting. Both grips should warm up within 30 seconds. Feel them with your hand to confirm they are heating evenly. If only one side heats, check your connections at the relay and at the grip terminals. If neither heats, verify that the relay is receiving power by using a multimeter to check for voltage at the relay input. Most problems at this stage are loose connectors, not faulty grips.

Troubleshooting common issues

If the grips do not heat at all, the first thing to check is whether the relay is getting power. Use a multimeter set to DC voltage and touch the probe to the relay's power input wire and a ground point. You should see 12 volts. If you see zero, trace the wire back to the battery connection and look for a loose terminal or a blown fuse. If you see 12 volts but the grips still do not heat, the problem is likely a bad connection at the grip terminals themselves — remove the grips and reseat the connectors.

If one grip heats and the other does not, the issue is almost always a poor ground connection on the cold side. Check the ground wire at both the relay and at the frame. Make sure the frame connection point is bare metal with no paint or rust. A corroded connection will block current flow. If the grips heat but the switch does not control the temperature, the switch itself may be faulty — most kits include a replacement, or you can order one from the manufacturer.

Protecting your wiring from moisture and damage

Heated grip wiring is exposed to rain, road spray, and vibration. Protect all connections by wrapping them with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Pay special attention to the connectors at the grips and at the relay — these are the most common failure points. If you are riding in wet conditions regularly, consider adding a small rubber boot over the switch connector to keep water out.

Check your connections every few months, especially after riding in heavy rain. Corrosion can build up on connectors even if they look clean from the outside. If a grip stops heating or heats intermittently, disconnect the battery and reseat all connectors before assuming a part has failed. Most intermittent problems are caused by loose connections, not broken components.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install heated grips without disconnecting the battery?

You can, but it is risky. If a wire touches the frame while the battery is connected, it will short and potentially damage your bike's electrical system or blow a fuse. Disconnecting the battery takes five minutes and eliminates that risk entirely. It is worth doing.

Do heated grips drain the battery when the bike is off?

No, not if the wiring is done correctly. The relay only sends power to the grips when the ignition is on and the switch is activated. When the bike is off, no current flows. If your battery is draining, check for a loose connection that is allowing current to flow even when the switch is off.

What gauge wire should I use for the power and ground lines?

Most heated grip kits come with 12-gauge wire, which is appropriate for the current draw. If you are building a custom setup, use 12-gauge for the main power line from the battery to the relay, and 14-gauge for the lines running through the handlebars. Do not go smaller than 14-gauge, or the wire will heat up under load.

Can I use the same relay for both grips, or do I need two?

One relay controls both grips. The relay switches power on and off for both sides simultaneously based on the switch setting. You do not need a separate relay for each grip.

How do I know if my grips are heating evenly?

Feel both grips with your hand after they have been on for a minute. They should be warm to the touch and feel roughly the same temperature. If one is noticeably hotter than the other, there may be a connection issue on the cooler side, or one grip may have a faulty heating element. Test on both the low and high settings to rule out a switch problem.