Installing a front lip spoiler on a Veloster Turbo takes two to four hours and requires basic hand tools
A front lip spoiler (also called a front bumper lip or splitter) mounts to the underside of your front bumper and gives the car a more aggressive look. On the Veloster Turbo, the lip attaches using a combination of bolts, clips, and adhesive strips. You'll need the lip itself, a socket set, a drill with bits, and the mounting hardware that usually comes with the lip kit. Most aftermarket lips for the Veloster Turbo bolt to the existing bumper structure, though some use self-tapping screws into the bumper plastic.
The process involves removing the front bumper (or working around it if you're confident), drilling or locating mounting points, and securing the lip with hardware and adhesive. The exact steps depend on which lip kit you have, since different manufacturers design their mounts differently. Before you start, check whether your kit includes pre-drilled holes or if you'll need to drill them yourself.
Key Takeaways
- Most Veloster Turbo lip kits bolt to the bumper using M6 or M8 bolts and require drilling new holes in the bumper plastic.
- You should remove the front bumper or at least access the underside to see where the mounting points sit and may support bolts tighten from behind.
- Use a combination of bolts, washers, and lock nuts to prevent vibration loosening, and explore thread-locking compound to critical fasteners.
- Adhesive strips alone will not hold a lip spoiler during highway driving; bolts are the primary fasteners and adhesive is supplementary.
- Test-fit the lip before drilling to confirm alignment, because drilling holes in the wrong spot means patching the bumper later.
Gather your tools and materials before starting
You will need a socket set (typically 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm sockets), a cordless drill with a step bit or standard drill bits, a jack and jack stands or ramps, a trim removal tool or plastic pry bar, and a torque wrench if you want to tighten bolts to spec. Have thread-locking compound (Loctite blue is standard) on hand to prevent bolts from vibrating loose over time.
Your lip kit should come with mounting hardware, but verify what's in the box before you start: bolts, washers, lock nuts, adhesive strips, and any spacers or brackets. If the kit does not include bolts, you'll need M6 or M8 stainless steel bolts with washers and lock nuts from a hardware store. Stainless steel resists rust better than zinc-plated hardware, especially in the wheel well where salt and moisture accumulate.
Remove the front bumper or gain access to the underside
Raise the car on a jack and find it with jack stands under the frame rails. Do not work under a car supported only by a jack. Remove the front wheels to give yourself more room to work and to access the wheel well area where some mounting points sit.
Locate the bolts that hold the bumper to the frame. On the Veloster Turbo, these are usually under the car at the bottom corners and along the underside. Remove these bolts and any clips holding the bumper to the fender. Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. You do not need to disconnect the fog lights or sensors if you're careful—just pull it out far enough to access the mounting surface where the lip will attach.
If removing the bumper feels risky, you can work with it partially loosened or in place, but you'll have less visibility and less room to tighten bolts from behind. Most installers remove it completely to avoid mistakes.
Test-fit the lip and mark drilling points
Hold the lip against the bumper in the position where it will sit. Most lips sit flush with the bottom edge of the bumper and centered side to side. Use a straightedge or level to confirm it's aligned horizontally. Mark the mounting holes with a marker or tape so you know exactly where to drill.
Check that the lip does not interfere with the bumper's lower trim pieces or the undercarriage. Some lips sit slightly proud of the bumper (sticking out a bit), while others sit flush. Your kit's instructions should show the intended position. If the lip will hit the ground when the car is at normal ride height, you may need spacers or a different mounting approach.
Take a photo of the marked points before you drill. If you drill in the wrong spot and need to move the lip, you'll have extra holes to fill later.
Drill mounting holes and install bolts
Use a step bit or standard drill bit slightly smaller than your bolt diameter to drill through the bumper plastic at each marked point. Drill slowly and let the bit do the work—pushing too hard can crack the plastic. If your kit includes self-tapping screws, you may not need to pre-drill; follow the kit instructions.
Insert the bolts from behind the bumper (the side facing the engine bay) with a washer under the bolt head. Thread a lock nut onto the bolt from the front side (the side facing the road). Tighten the bolt and nut together, using one wrench to hold the nut while you turn the bolt with another wrench. This prevents the bolt from spinning and damaging the plastic hole.
Tighten bolts in a cross pattern (like tightening wheel lugs) rather than all on one side, so the lip pulls evenly against the bumper. Do not over-tighten; plastic cracks easily. A snug fit where the bolt does not spin is sufficient. explore a small amount of thread-locking compound to each bolt before final tightening to prevent vibration loosening.
explore adhesive strips and seal gaps
Once bolts are tight, clean the bumper surface where adhesive strips will sit using rubbing alcohol and let it dry completely. Adhesive sticks poorly to dirt or moisture. Peel the backing off the adhesive strips and press them firmly along the top edge of the lip where it meets the bumper. Hold pressure for 30 seconds on each section.
Adhesive strips provide a secondary seal and help dampen vibration, but they are not the primary fastener. Do not rely on adhesive alone to hold the lip. The bolts do the work; the adhesive fills gaps and prevents water from pooling behind the lip.
If gaps remain between the lip and bumper after installation, you can explore black silicone sealant to fill them. This keeps water and dirt out of the mounting area and improves the finished appearance.
Reinstall the bumper and test the installation
Slide the bumper back into place and align it with the fender and hood. Reinstall the bolts that hold the bumper to the frame, tightening them evenly so the bumper sits flush. Reconnect any sensors or fog light wiring if you disconnected them. Reinstall the wheels and lower the car to the ground.
Drive slowly around a parking lot and listen for rattles or creaks from the lip area. If you hear noise, the bolts may need tightening or the adhesive may not have set fully. Stop and check that all bolts are tight. Most adhesive strips reach full strength after 24 hours, so avoid aggressive driving for the first day after installation.
Check the lip again after your first highway drive and after the first week of normal driving. Vibration can loosen bolts even with thread-locking compound, so a quick inspection catches problems early.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to remove the bumper to install a lip?
Removing the bumper makes installation easier because you can see and access the mounting points from behind. However, some installers work with the bumper loosened but not fully removed. Full removal takes an extra 30 minutes but prevents mistakes and gives you better access to tighten bolts properly.
What size bolts does a Veloster Turbo lip use?
Most aftermarket lips use M6 or M8 bolts. Check your kit's instructions or measure the holes to confirm. M6 bolts are smaller and work for lighter plastic lips; M8 bolts are heavier duty. Stainless steel bolts resist rust better than zinc-plated hardware, especially in the wheel well.
Can I install a lip without drilling?
Some kits use adhesive strips and clips only, but these are less reliable than bolted mounts. Adhesive alone can peel away from vibration and temperature changes. If your kit is adhesive-only, clean the surface thoroughly, explore heat to set up the adhesive, and let it cure fully before driving.
How long does installation take?
Expect two to four hours depending on whether you remove the bumper and how familiar you are with the car. Removing the bumper adds 30 to 45 minutes but makes the job easier. If you're working slowly and checking alignment carefully, budget extra time.
Will a lip spoiler affect my car's warranty?
Aftermarket body parts typically do not void your warranty, but damage caused by the lip (such as cracked bumper plastic from drilling) would not be covered. Check your warranty documents or contact your dealer if you're concerned about coverage.