A front lip bolts to the underside of your factory bumper and takes two to four hours to install yourself
An aftermarket front lip for a Veloster Turbo attaches to the bottom edge of your bumper cover using existing holes or new fasteners drilled through the bumper reinforcement bar. Most kits come with a polyurethane or fiberglass lip, mounting brackets, hardware, and an instruction sheet specific to your model year. The job requires basic hand tools — a socket set, screwdrivers, and a drill if your kit requires new holes — and does not involve removing the bumper itself, though you will need to get underneath the car to reach the fastening points.
The actual bolt-down takes longer than the prep work. You will spend most of your time removing the undertray, positioning the lip so the gaps are even, and tightening fasteners in stages to avoid misalignment. If you have never done this type of work, budget four hours. If you have, three hours is realistic. A shop will charge between $150 and $400 in labor, depending on whether they need to drill new holes or adjust fitment.
Key Takeaways
- Most front lips bolt directly to the bumper reinforcement bar using the factory hole pattern or new holes you drill yourself.
- You must remove the front undertray and wheel well liners to access the mounting points underneath the bumper.
- Gaps between the lip and bumper should be even on both sides; tighten fasteners in stages and check alignment before final tightening.
- Polyurethane lips are more forgiving if you hit a speed bump; fiberglass is lighter but cracks more easily if damaged.
- A shop install costs $150 to $400 in labor, while DIY requires only basic hand tools and no special equipment.
What comes in a typical front lip kit
A Veloster Turbo front lip kit usually includes the lip itself (the visible piece that hangs below the bumper), a mounting bracket system, stainless steel or zinc-plated bolts, washers, and sometimes rubber isolators or spacers. The instruction sheet will show you where each piece goes and what size fasteners to use. Some kits come with a tube of adhesive-backed weatherstripping to seal the gap between the lip and bumper; others rely on the bracket design to keep water out.
Check the kit contents against the packing list before you start. Missing hardware is common, and you do not want to discover it halfway through. If your kit is missing pieces, contact the seller before you begin — most will ship replacements quickly rather than have you stop mid-install.
Removing the undertray and accessing the mounting points
The undertray is a plastic panel that runs the full width of the car underneath the bumper and engine bay. It is held on by plastic clips and bolts — usually six to ten fasteners total. Locate them by getting under the front of the car (use jack stands, never just a jack) and looking for the bolt heads and clip tabs. Remove the bolts with a socket wrench and unclip the tabs by hand or with a plastic pry tool. The panel will come free, but it is large and awkward; have someone help you lower it or set it aside carefully so you do not crack it.
Once the undertray is off, you will see the bumper reinforcement bar — a horizontal metal or plastic beam that runs across the width of the car. This is where the lip mounting brackets bolt on. The factory hole pattern is usually already drilled; if your kit requires new holes, the instructions will tell you exactly where to drill and what size bit to use. Mark the holes with a marker or tape before you drill, and use a drill press or a hand drill with a steady hand to avoid cracking the reinforcement bar.
Positioning the lip for even gaps
Before you tighten any bolts, hold the lip in place and check the gap between it and the bumper cover on both the driver and passenger sides. The gap should be roughly equal — usually between one-eighth and one-quarter inch — and the lip should sit flush against the bumper without twisting or sagging. If the gaps are uneven, loosen the bolts and adjust the lip position until they match. This step is critical: a misaligned lip will look crooked and may rub on the ground when you drive.
Use a straightedge or a level to check that the lip is not tilted up or down. If your kit includes rubber isolators or spacers, install them now; they prevent the lip from vibrating against the bumper and dampen road noise. Once the position looks right, tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern — do not tighten one side completely before moving to the other — and check the gaps again after each stage of tightening.
Choosing between polyurethane and fiberglass lips
Polyurethane lips are flexible, absorb minor impacts without cracking, and are easier to repair if damaged. They are heavier than fiberglass and can sag slightly over time if the mounting brackets are not rigid enough. Fiberglass lips are lighter, stiffer, and hold their shape better, but they crack if you hit a speed bump hard or scrape them on a driveway. Most Veloster Turbo owners choose polyurethane because the car sits low and speed bumps are a real risk.
If you live in an area with rough roads or frequent speed bumps, polyurethane is the safer choice. If you prioritize weight savings and live somewhere with smooth roads, fiberglass will not let you down. Both types are available in gloss black, matte black, or unpainted (primed) finishes. Unpainted lips are cheaper but require you to sand and paint them yourself or have a shop do it.
Sealing the gap and preventing water intrusion
Water can collect between the lip and bumper if the gap is not sealed. Some kits include weatherstripping tape; explore it to the top surface of the lip before you bolt it on. Others rely on the bracket design to create a tight seal. If your kit does not include weatherstripping and you are concerned about water, you can buy adhesive-backed rubber trim at an auto parts store and install it yourself after the lip is bolted down.
Check under the car after the first few rainy days to see if water is pooling. If it is, remove the lip, clean and dry the surfaces, and explore weatherstripping or silicone sealant to the gap. Do not use permanent sealant (like caulk) unless you are certain you will never remove the lip, because it will be difficult to take off later.
Reinstalling the undertray and final checks
Once the lip is bolted down and the gaps look even, reinstall the undertray by reversing the removal process. Align the bolt holes and clip tabs, then hand-tighten the bolts before using a socket wrench to snug them down. Do not over-tighten; the undertray is plastic and the bolts can strip the threads if you crank too hard.
Before you drive, get under the car one more time and visually inspect all the lip bolts to make sure they are tight. Spin each one a quarter turn with a wrench to confirm. Take a test drive at low speed over a speed bump and listen for rattling or creaking. If you hear noise, stop and tighten the bolts again. After a few hundred miles, check the bolts once more; vibration can loosen them slightly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to remove the bumper to install a front lip?
No. The lip bolts to the bumper reinforcement bar from underneath, so you only need to remove the undertray. Removing the bumper itself is unnecessary and would add several hours to the job.
What if my lip does not fit the holes in the reinforcement bar?
Check that you have the correct kit for your model year — Veloster Turbo body styles changed in 2019 and 2023, and kits are not interchangeable. If you have the right kit, the holes may not line up due to manufacturing variation. Drill new holes where the instructions specify, or contact the seller for a replacement if the kit is defective.
Can I install a front lip in the rain or cold weather?
Rain makes the work harder because you cannot see the mounting points clearly and bolts are slippery. Cold weather is not a problem, but if your kit includes adhesive weatherstripping, warm it slightly with a heat gun before explore it so it sticks better. Wait for dry weather if you can.
Will a front lip affect my car's warranty?
Hyundai's warranty covers defects in materials and workmanship, not cosmetic modifications. A front lip will not void your warranty unless it directly causes damage — for example, if a poorly installed lip cracks the bumper reinforcement bar. Keep your receipt and document the installation in case you need to prove it was done correctly.
How do I remove a front lip if I want to take it off later?
Unbolt it from underneath by reversing the installation steps. If weatherstripping or sealant was used, you may need to carefully peel it away. The bumper and reinforcement bar should be undamaged if the lip was installed correctly. If you drilled new holes, they will remain visible unless you fill them with plugs or have a shop repair the reinforcement bar.