What to look for when buying a used track skid steer
A used track skid steer is a compact loader with rubber or steel tracks instead of wheels, built to move across soft ground without sinking or tearing up the surface. When you are shopping for one, the machine's hours of operation matter more than its age — a five-year-old machine with 800 hours is usually in better shape than a two-year-old machine with 2,500 hours. Check the hour meter on the dashboard before you even look at the body.
The tracks themselves are the most expensive part to replace, so inspect them closely. Look for missing or cracked lugs (the rubber teeth), uneven wear, or tracks that sit loose on the frame. A tight track should not move side to side when you push on it. If the tracks are worn but not destroyed, factor $3,000 to $8,000 per track into your offer, depending on the model and whether you replace them now or later.
Start the engine and listen for grinding, knocking, or rattling sounds that do not stop after warm-up. Watch the hydraulic fluid level on the sight glass — it should be between the minimum and maximum marks when the engine is off and the machine is on level ground. Ask the seller for service records; machines that were regularly serviced are safer bets than ones with no paper trail.
Key Takeaways
- Operating hours are a better indicator of condition than the year the machine was made, and you should verify the hour meter reading before making an offer.
- Track condition determines whether you can use the machine when ready or need to budget thousands for replacement before putting it to work.
- Hydraulic fluid leaks, engine noise, and missing service records are red flags that often mean expensive repairs are coming soon.
- Prices for used track skid steers vary widely based on brand, hours, and local demand, so check multiple listings and auction sites to understand what similar machines are selling for in your area.
- A pre-purchase inspection by a heavy equipment mechanic costs $200 to $500 but can save you from buying a machine with hidden damage.
Where to find used track skid steers for sale
Equipment dealers are the most common source. Caterpillar, Bobcat, John Deere, and Kubota all sell used machines through their authorized dealers, and these machines usually come with some warranty coverage and a service history. Dealer prices are higher than private sales, but you have recourse if something breaks when ready after purchase.
Online marketplaces like Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and Letgo connect you with private sellers in your area. Prices are often lower, but you have no warranty and no way to verify the seller's claims about maintenance. Always meet in person, bring a mechanic if you can, and ask to see the title and service records before you hand over money.
Auction sites like Machinery Values, IronPlanet, and Ritchie Bros. hold regular sales of used equipment. You can bid online or in person, and the auction house guarantees the title is clear. Auction machines are sold as-is with no warranty, so the inspection step is not optional — many auctions allow you to inspect the machine before bidding.
Understanding the cost breakdown
The purchase price is only the beginning. Budget for delivery if you cannot pick up the machine yourself — transport costs $2 to $5 per mile depending on distance and whether the machine can be driven or needs to be trailered. If the tracks need replacement, add $6,000 to $16,000 depending on whether you replace one or both.
Fuel, maintenance, and repairs will follow. A track skid steer burns 1 to 3 gallons of fuel per hour depending on the model and how hard you are working it. Oil changes, filter replacements, and hydraulic fluid top-ups run $300 to $600 per year if you use the machine regularly. Unexpected repairs — a cracked boom, a failed hydraulic pump, or a broken control linkage — can cost $1,000 to $5,000.
Insurance and storage are ongoing costs you may not have considered. If you are using the machine for business, your commercial insurance may cover it, but you will need to add it to your policy. Storage in a covered building protects the machine from rust and weather damage, especially if you only use it seasonally.
Red flags that mean walk away
Hydraulic fluid leaking from the cylinders, hoses, or pump is a sign that repairs are imminent. A small drip is normal, but if you see a puddle under the machine or fluid running down the boom, the seller is hiding a problem. Do not negotiate down — walk away.
An engine that knocks, pings, or rattles when running under load may have internal damage. Smoke from the exhaust — blue smoke means oil is burning, white smoke means coolant is leaking — both point to engine trouble. These repairs cost $3,000 to $8,000 and are not worth taking on in a used machine.
Tracks that are cracked, missing large sections of lug, or so loose they slip on the frame are expensive to fix and a sign the machine was not maintained. Bent or cracked booms, dented buckets, or broken hydraulic lines are cosmetic problems you can live with, but structural damage to the frame or boom is a deal-breaker.
No service records and a seller who cannot answer basic questions about maintenance are warning signs. If the seller does not know when the oil was last changed or whether the hydraulic filter has been serviced, assume the machine was neglected.
How to negotiate and close the deal
Get a written quote from a heavy equipment mechanic for any repairs you noticed during your inspection. Use that quote to negotiate the price down — if the tracks need $5,000 in work, offer $5,000 less than the asking price. Sellers expect this; it is part of the process.
Ask for the title and verify the VIN matches the machine. Make sure there are no liens against it — contact your state's DMV or the lender listed on the title to confirm. A machine with a lien cannot be legally sold to you.
Put the agreement in writing, even if it is just an email. State the purchase price, the condition of the machine as you observed it, what repairs the seller promised to make before delivery, and the date and method of payment. Both of you should keep a copy.
Arrange transportation before you pay. Confirm the delivery date and location with the seller and the transport company. Pay the seller only after the machine is delivered and you have confirmed it matches the description and condition you agreed to.
Financing options for used equipment
Equipment financing through a bank or credit union is the most common route. You will need a down payment of 10 to 25 percent, proof of income, and a credit score of 650 or higher. Interest rates vary based on your credit and the loan term, but expect 6 to 12 percent for a used machine.
Some equipment dealers offer in-house financing, which can be faster than a bank loan but often carries higher interest rates. Ask what the monthly payment would be and whether there are penalties for paying off the loan early.
Leasing is an option if you only need the machine for a season or two. Monthly lease payments are lower than loan payments, but you never own the machine and you pay for all maintenance and repairs. Leasing makes sense if you are testing whether a track skid steer is right for your work before committing to a purchase.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a track skid steer and a wheeled skid steer?
Tracks distribute the machine's weight over a larger area, so they sink less into soft ground and cause less damage to grass or landscaping. Wheels are faster on hard surfaces and easier to maneuver in tight spaces. Choose tracks if you work in mud, snow, or soft soil; choose wheels if you work on pavement or hard ground.
How many hours is too many for a used track skid steer?
Machines with 3,000 to 5,000 hours are still in the middle of their useful life if they were maintained. Machines with 8,000 hours or more are approaching the end of their service life and are riskier purchases. Always ask for service records to confirm the machine was maintained regularly.
Can I use a used track skid steer for snow removal?
Yes, but check the tracks first. Tracks that are worn or damaged will slip on ice and snow. If you plan to use the machine in winter, budget for new tracks or plan to use it only in mild conditions. Snow removal also requires a plow or pusher attachment, which you may need to purchase separately.
What should I do if the machine breaks down after I buy it?
Contact a heavy equipment repair shop in your area — most can diagnose and fix common problems. Keep all receipts and service records for warranty claims if you bought from a dealer. If you bought privately, you have no recourse, which is why the inspection step is so important.
Is it worth buying a machine with unknown service history?
No. A machine with no service records is a gamble. Even if the price is lower, you are taking on the risk of expensive repairs. Spend the extra money on a machine with documented maintenance — it will cost less in the long run.