What to look for when buying a used or new track skid steer

A track skid steer is a small, steerable loader with continuous rubber or steel tracks instead of wheels. When you're looking at machines for sale, the condition of those tracks matters more than almost anything else—replacing them costs $3,000 to $8,000 depending on the model. Beyond tracks, you'll want to inspect the engine hours, hydraulic system, and whether the machine has been used in abrasive work like sand or gravel, which wears parts faster.

New machines come with a manufacturer warranty, usually two to three years, and you know the service history. Used machines are cheaper but require more inspection work on your part. The sweet spot for many buyers is a machine with 1,500 to 3,000 hours—old enough to have dropped in price, new enough that major components still have life left.

Where you buy matters too. Authorized dealers stand behind what they sell and can service the machine afterward. Private sellers and auction sites are cheaper but offer no recourse if something fails a week after purchase. Heavy equipment auctions like Ritchie Bros. or IronPlanet fall somewhere in between—you can inspect before bidding, but you buy as-is.

Key Takeaways

  • Track condition is the single most expensive repair on a skid steer, so inspect the rubber or steel for cracks, missing lugs, and uneven wear before making an offer.
  • Engine hours, hydraulic leaks, and whether the machine was used in sand or gravel tell you how hard the machine has been worked and how much life remains.
  • New machines from dealers cost more but include warranty coverage and a clear service record; used machines require hands-on inspection but cost significantly less.
  • Authorized dealers can service the machine after you buy it, while private sellers and auctions offer lower prices but no support if something breaks.
  • Rental companies often sell machines with 2,000 to 4,000 hours at auction—they're well-maintained but heavily used, so inspect carefully.

How to inspect the tracks and undercarriage

Start by walking around the machine and looking at the track surface. You're looking for chunks missing from the rubber lugs, cracks running across the track, or sections that sag more than others. Uneven wear—one side worn flat while the other looks newer—suggests the machine was steered hard in one direction or the hydraulics are out of balance. If you see grease or hydraulic fluid pooling under the tracks, the seals are failing.

Spin each track by hand if the engine is off. It should rotate smoothly without grinding sounds or sticking. If it's stiff or makes noise, the idler wheels or rollers underneath may be damaged. Ask the seller how many hours are on the machine and what kind of work it did. Sand and gravel are the enemies of hydraulics and seals; if the machine spent time in a quarry or on a beach, expect faster wear.

Look at the frame and belly pan for dents, cracks, or welded repairs. Small dents don't matter. Cracks or fresh welds suggest the machine hit something hard or was overloaded. Ask about any repairs and get details—a welded frame can be fine if it was done right, but it's a sign the machine has been stressed.

Checking the engine and hydraulic system

Engine hours are displayed on the hour meter, usually on the dashboard. Write down the number and compare it to the asking price. A machine with 5,000 hours should cost less than one with 2,000 hours, all else equal. Ask for maintenance records—oil changes, filter replacements, and any major repairs. Machines that were serviced regularly last longer than ones that were neglected.

Start the engine and listen. It should turn over smoothly without grinding or knocking. Let it idle for a minute and watch for blue or black smoke from the exhaust. Blue smoke means oil is burning, which suggests worn piston rings. Black smoke usually means the fuel injectors need cleaning, a cheaper fix. White smoke on a cold start is normal; white smoke when the engine is warm is not.

Check the hydraulic fluid level and color. The fluid should be amber or light brown. Dark brown or black fluid means it's old and full of wear particles—a sign the machine needs a fluid and filter change soon. Look under the machine and around the hydraulic hoses for leaks. A few drops are normal; steady dripping means seals are failing. Ask the seller about any leaks they know of and whether they've been repaired.

Understanding price variation by brand and model

The major brands—Bobcat, Caterpillar, John Deere, Kubota, and ASV—hold their value differently. Bobcat machines are the most common on the used market, which means more inventory and lower prices, but also more competition if you want to sell later. Caterpillar and John Deere machines tend to cost more but are easier to find parts for in rural areas. Kubota and ASV are newer to the skid steer market and have smaller resale markets.

Newer models with cab enclosures, air conditioning, and modern controls cost more than older open-frame machines, but they're more comfortable to operate all day. A 2015 Bobcat T650 with a cab might sell for $35,000 to $45,000 depending on hours and condition; a 2010 model with the same hours might be $20,000 to $28,000. Prices vary by region—machines cost more in areas with active construction and less in rural areas with fewer buyers.

Attachment compatibility matters too. Some machines use a universal quick-attach system; others use proprietary mounts. If you already own buckets, forks, or other attachments, a machine that fits your existing gear saves you thousands in new equipment.

Where to find machines for sale

Authorized dealers like Bobcat or Caterpillar dealerships have new and used inventory, service departments, and financing options. Prices are higher, but you get warranty coverage and the ability to return for repairs. Call or visit the dealer's website to see what's in stock.

Heavy equipment auctions like Ritchie Bros., IronPlanet, and Machinery Values hold regular sales online and in person. You can inspect machines before bidding, and auctions often have dozens of models to choose from. Buyer's fees (usually 10 to 15 percent) are added to your winning bid, so factor that into your budget.

Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, and local classified ads connect you with private sellers. Prices are often lower because there's no middleman, but you have no recourse if something breaks after purchase. Always inspect in person and bring someone who knows equipment if you don't.

Rental companies like United Rentals and Sunbelt Rentals sell off used machines regularly. These machines are well-maintained but heavily used. Check their auction sites or call local branches to ask about upcoming sales.

What to negotiate and what to walk away from

If the tracks have visible wear but no cracks, you can negotiate the price down by $2,000 to $4,000 to account for replacement. If the engine has high hours but runs smoothly, that's less of a concern than a low-hour engine with a knock or blue smoke. Hydraulic leaks are negotiable if they're small; major leaks mean the machine needs expensive repairs and you should walk away unless the price reflects that.

Walk away if the engine won't start, the tracks are cracked or missing large sections, or the frame is cracked. These are expensive fixes that may not be worth it unless you're buying the machine for parts. Also walk away if the seller won't let you inspect the machine thoroughly or won't provide maintenance records. That's a red flag.

Get a pre-purchase inspection from an independent mechanic if you're spending more than $20,000. The inspection costs $300 to $600 and can save you thousands by catching hidden problems. Many dealers and auction sites allow this; private sellers should too.

Financing and transportation options

Authorized dealers offer financing through their own lenders or through banks. Interest rates vary based on your credit and the machine's age. New machines usually may have access to for lower rates than used ones. Compare rates from at least two lenders before committing.

Transporting a skid steer requires a heavy-duty trailer rated for the machine's weight—usually 4,000 to 6,000 pounds. You can rent a trailer from Home Depot, Sunbelt Rentals, or local equipment rental shops for $50 to $150 per day. Some dealers include delivery in the price; others charge $500 to $2,000 depending on distance. Factor transportation into your total cost.

If you're buying from an auction, ask whether they offer delivery or can recommend a transport company. Auction sites usually don't include delivery, so you'll need to arrange it yourself or pay their recommended hauler.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many hours is too many for a used skid steer?

Most machines are good for 5,000 to 8,000 hours with proper maintenance. A machine with 4,000 hours is still in the middle of its life. Above 6,000 hours, inspect more carefully for wear on the hydraulics and engine. The maintenance history matters more than the raw number—a well-serviced 6,000-hour machine is better than a neglected 3,000-hour one.

Should I buy a machine with a cab or an open frame?

A cab costs $3,000 to $8,000 more upfront but keeps you warm in winter and out of the sun in summer. If you'll operate the machine eight hours a day, a cab is worth it. If you use it occasionally, an open frame saves money. Cabs also hold resale value better in cold climates.

What's the difference between rubber and steel tracks?

Rubber tracks are quieter, easier on pavement, and cost less to replace. Steel tracks grip better in mud and snow and last longer in abrasive conditions. Most buyers choose rubber unless they work primarily in wet or snowy terrain. Ask the seller which type is on the machine and whether replacement tracks are available locally.

Can I use a skid steer I buy for commercial work right away?

Yes, but have it inspected first and budget for maintenance. New machines come with a break-in period—usually the first 50 hours—where you should avoid heavy loads. Used machines should be serviced before heavy use: new oil and filters, hydraulic fluid check, and a full inspection of wear items.

What documents do I need when I buy a used skid steer?

You need the title or bill of sale, maintenance records if available, and any warranty documentation. For machines from dealers, ask for a service history. For private sales, get a bill of sale signed by both parties with the machine's serial number, hours, and price. Keep these records for your own maintenance tracking and for resale later.