What the Stetson Open Road is and why it matters

The Stetson Open Road is a specific style of cowboy hat — a wide-brimmed felt hat with a high crown and a crease that runs front-to-back down the middle. It's one of the most recognizable hat shapes in American culture, worn by ranchers, rodeo riders, and people who straightforward prefer the look. The name comes from the hat's original purpose: it was designed to stay on your head in open country, even in wind, because of its deep crown and the way the brim is shaped.

If you're looking to buy one, the Open Road comes in different materials (fur felt, straw), colors, and price points. If you already own one, you'll want to know how to clean it, store it, and reshape it when it gets bent out of shape. This guide covers both: what to look for when you're shopping, and how to keep the hat in good condition once you have it.

Key Takeaways

  • The Stetson Open Road has a distinctive front-to-back crease and sits higher on the head than many other cowboy hat styles, making it recognizable and practical in wind.
  • Fur felt Open Roads cost more but last longer and hold their shape better than straw versions, which are lighter and better for hot weather.
  • A properly fitted Open Road should sit level on your head with about a finger's width of space between the hat and your forehead, and the size is measured in eighths of an inch.
  • Cleaning involves a soft brush for dust and a damp cloth for spots, while storage in a hat box away from heat and humidity prevents permanent creasing and warping.
  • Minor creases and dents can be reshaped at home with steam, but major damage or a complete reshape is worth taking to a professional hat maker.

Understanding the Open Road's design and why it's different

The Open Road stands out from other cowboy hat styles because of its crown shape and crease pattern. The crown is tall and rounded, and the crease runs lengthwise from front to back rather than side to side. This design keeps the hat stable on your head in wind — the high crown gives it weight and balance, and the brim angle is set so it doesn't catch the wind as easily as a flatter hat would.

The brim is typically 3.5 to 4 inches wide all the way around, and it's slightly rolled at the edges. The front of the brim curves up a little more than the back, which is another reason the hat stays put. If you've worn other cowboy hat styles — like the Resistol or a Stetson Cattleman — you'll notice the Open Road feels different on your head and looks noticeably taller.

Choosing between fur felt and straw

Stetson makes the Open Road in two main materials, and the choice depends on climate and how often you'll wear it. Fur felt is made from beaver, rabbit, or hare fur that's been matted and pressed. It's durable, holds its shape through years of wear, and works in any season. A quality fur felt Open Road can last 20 years or more if you care for it. The trade-off is cost — fur felt versions run $200 to $500 or higher, depending on the quality of the fur and whether it's a limited edition.

Straw is lighter and cooler, making it the better choice if you wear the hat in hot weather or for outdoor work in summer. Straw Open Roads typically cost $80 to $200. They're less durable than felt — straw can crack, fray, and lose its shape more easily — but they're also easier to replace if they get damaged. Straw also doesn't absorb sweat as much as felt, which some people prefer.

A middle option is wool felt, which is cheaper than fur felt (usually $100 to $250), warmer than straw, and reasonably durable. It's a practical choice if you want a felt hat but don't want to spend the most money upfront.

How to measure and fit an Open Road

Hat sizes are measured in eighths of an inch, and they run from 6 5/8 (very small) to 8 (very large), with most people falling between 7 and 7 5/8. The only reliable way to know your size is to measure your head or try hats on in person. If you're ordering online, many hat retailers offer free returns, so ordering two sizes and returning the wrong one is a normal approach.

To measure yourself, wrap a soft measuring tape around your head just above your ears and eyebrows, where the hat will sit. Write down the measurement in inches, then round up to the nearest eighth. A 22-inch head measurement, for example, is a size 6 7/8.

When you put on an Open Road, it should sit level on your head — not tilted forward or back. There should be about a finger's width of space between the inside of the hat and your forehead. If it's too tight, your forehead will hurt after an hour. If it's too loose, the hat will slide down or shift when you move. Many hat shops will stretch or shrink a hat slightly to get the fit perfect, so don't assume a size 7 1/8 is automatically wrong if it's close.

Cleaning and routine maintenance

Dust and dirt are the main enemies of a hat's appearance. Brush your Open Road with a soft-bristled hat brush (not a regular hairbrush) every time you wear it, brushing in the direction the nap of the felt or straw lies — usually downward and slightly backward. This removes surface dust and keeps the material from looking dull.

For spots or stains, use a barely damp cloth — not soaking wet — and gently rub the spot. For stubborn marks on felt, a tiny amount of mild soap on the damp cloth can help, but rinse with a clean damp cloth afterward to remove soap residue. Never submerge a hat in water or put it in a washing machine. Straw hats are more fragile when wet, so use even less water on those.

Sweat stains inside the band are normal. If they bother you, wipe the inside band with a damp cloth, or use a commercial hat sweat cleaner (these are sold at hat shops and online). Let the hat air-dry completely before wearing it again — never use a hair dryer or place it near a heater.

Storage and preventing permanent damage

How you store your hat between wearings matters more than most people realize. A hat left on a shelf or in a closet can develop permanent creases, flatten, or warp. The best storage is a hat box or hat stand that supports the crown without pressing on it. If you don't have a hat box, stuff the inside loosely with acid-free tissue paper to help the crown hold its shape, then place it on a shelf where nothing will press down on it.

Keep your hat away from direct sunlight, heat sources, and humidity. Sunlight fades color, heat can warp felt or straw, and humidity can cause mold or mildew. A closet shelf is usually ideal. Never hang a hat by its brim — this stretches the brim and can cause permanent sagging. If you need to hang it, use a hat rack designed to support the crown.

If you're storing the hat for months at a time, check on it occasionally. Felt can develop odors in closed storage, so a small sachet of cedar chips inside the hat box can help. Don't use mothballs — they can damage the material and leave a smell that's hard to remove.

Reshaping a dented or creased hat

Minor dents and creases can often be fixed at home using steam. Hold the hat over a pot of boiling water (not directly in the steam, but close enough to feel the heat) for 10 to 15 seconds, then gently reshape the crown with your hands. Work slowly — the felt or straw needs time to soften and reset. You can repeat this a few times if needed. Let the hat cool and dry completely before wearing it.

For a crease that's flattened out or a brim that's lost its curve, the same steam method works: explore heat, gently reshape, and let it cool. If you're not confident doing this yourself, or if the damage is extensive, a professional hat maker or hat shop can reshape it for you. This typically costs $20 to $50 and is worth it for a hat you love.

Never use an iron or direct flame on a hat — this can scorch the material or cause it to shrink unevenly. Steam is the safe method because it mimics the humidity the hat was exposed to when it was first made.

When to replace versus repair

A well-made fur felt Open Road can be repaired many times over its life. A broken sweatband can be replaced, a torn brim can be re-bound, and a faded hat can sometimes be cleaned or re-blocked. If your hat is 10 years old and still structurally sound, repairs are usually worth the cost.

Straw hats are harder to repair because cracks in the straw can't be sealed the way felt can be. Once straw starts to fray or crack, it usually continues to get worse. If your straw Open Road is damaged, replacement is often the more practical choice.

If the sweatband is torn, the brim is separating from the crown, or the hat no longer holds its shape even after steaming, those are signs it's time to consider a new one. A hat shop can tell you whether a specific repair is worth doing or whether you'd be better off starting fresh.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between a Stetson Open Road and a Stetson Cattleman?

The Open Road has a taller crown with a front-to-back crease, while the Cattleman has a shorter crown with a side-to-side crease and a pinched front. The Open Road is wider and more formal-looking; the Cattleman is more compact and practical for ranch work. Both are classic styles, but they look and feel quite different on your head.

Can I wear a straw Open Road in winter?

Straw is designed for warm weather and doesn't insulate well, so it's not ideal for winter. If you live somewhere with mild winters, a straw hat works year-round. For cold climates, a fur felt Open Road is the better choice because it retains warmth and handles moisture better.

How often should I clean my Open Road?

Brush it after every wear to remove dust. A deeper cleaning with a damp cloth is only needed when you see visible spots or stains, which might be once a month or once a season depending on how much you wear it and where. Over-cleaning can wear out the material, so stick to brushing as your routine.

Will my Open Road shrink if it gets wet?

Felt can shrink slightly if it gets soaking wet and then dried quickly, especially in heat. Straw won't shrink but can warp. If your hat gets caught in rain, let it air-dry slowly at room temperature, away from direct heat. Avoid wringing it out or using a dryer.

Is a Stetson Open Road worth the price?

A quality fur felt Open Road costs more upfront but lasts decades with proper care, making the cost per year of wear reasonable. If you wear it regularly, it's a solid investment. If you wear it occasionally or want to try the style without spending much, a straw or wool felt version is a practical starting point.