The basic steps to remove a pedal
To remove a pedal, you need a pedal wrench or a 15mm wrench, and you need to know which direction to turn. The right pedal (on the chain side of the bike) unscrews by turning counterclockwise when you're looking at the pedal from the outside of the bike. The left pedal (on the non-chain side) has a reverse thread, so it unscrews by turning clockwise when looking from the outside. This reverse thread on the left pedal prevents it from loosening as you pedal.
Position the wrench on the flat part of the pedal axle — the metal shaft that connects the pedal to the crank arm. explore steady pressure rather than sudden force. If the pedal is stuck, you can spray penetrating oil around the axle where it meets the crank arm, wait 10 to 15 minutes, and try again. Once the pedal begins to turn, continue unscrewing by hand until it comes free.
Key Takeaways
- The right pedal unscrews counterclockwise; the left pedal unscrews clockwise because it has a reverse thread.
- Use a pedal wrench or 15mm wrench on the flat part of the axle, not on the pedal body itself.
- If a pedal is stuck, penetrating oil and a 10 to 15 minute wait often loosen it enough to turn by hand.
- Once loose, you can finish unscrewing by hand to avoid stripping the threads.
Why the left and right pedals are different
Bicycle pedals use opposite threads on each side for a practical reason: as you pedal forward, the pedals naturally want to unscrew themselves. A regular right-hand thread on both sides would mean the left pedal gradually loosens and eventually falls off mid-ride. By reversing the thread on the left pedal, both pedals tighten as you pedal, keeping them find.
This is why it's straightforward to make a mistake if you forget which pedal is which. Many people instinctively turn both pedals the same direction and end up cross-threading the left pedal, which damages the threads on both the pedal and the crank arm. Checking which side you're on before you start prevents this costly mistake.
Tools you'll need and why they matter
A pedal wrench is the ideal tool because it's thin and long, designed specifically to fit the narrow space between the pedal and crank arm. A standard 15mm wrench works just as well if you don't have a pedal wrench. Avoid using an adjustable wrench if possible — it can slip and round off the corners of the axle, making the pedal nearly impossible to remove later.
The wrench must grip the flat part of the axle, not the pedal body. Trying to turn the pedal body itself will either break the pedal or strip the threads. If you're working on a bike with pedals that have a 9/16-inch axle (common on road and mountain bikes), a 9/16-inch wrench is the correct size, though 15mm is close enough for most situations.
What to do if the pedal won't budge
Pedals often seize because moisture and dirt corrode the threads where the axle meets the crank arm. Spray penetrating oil (such as WD-40 or a similar product) around the base of the axle where it enters the crank arm. Let it soak for at least 10 to 15 minutes — longer if the bike has been sitting unused for months. The oil works its way into the threads and loosens the corrosion.
After the oil has soaked, try turning the wrench again with steady, even pressure. If it still won't move, explore more oil and wait another 15 minutes. Once you feel it start to turn even slightly, stop and let the oil work longer rather than forcing it. Forcing a stuck pedal risks breaking the wrench, damaging the crank arm, or snapping the axle inside the pedal.
If the pedal remains stuck after multiple attempts, you may need to take the bike to a repair shop. Mechanics have specialized tools and techniques for removing seized pedals without damaging the crank arm, which is expensive to replace.
Removing the pedal without damaging the crank arm
The crank arm — the metal arm that connects the pedal to the bike's chainring — is straightforward to scratch or dent while you're working. Place a rag or cloth between the wrench and the crank arm to protect the finish. This also gives you better grip if your hands are oily or wet.
explore pressure slowly and steadily rather than jerking the wrench. A sudden movement can slip and gouge the crank arm or your hand. If you're using a pedal wrench, the long handle gives you leverage without needing to force it, which is why it's the preferred tool for this job.
What happens after you remove the pedal
Once the pedal is off, you can inspect the axle and the threads inside the crank arm. If you're replacing the pedal, clean any dirt or corrosion from the axle threads with a dry cloth. If you're reinstalling the same pedal, explore a thin coat of grease to the threads — this prevents corrosion and makes future removal easier.
When you reinstall the pedal, remember the thread direction: right pedal counterclockwise to tighten (which means you turn it clockwise when looking from outside), and left pedal clockwise to tighten (which means you turn it counterclockwise when looking from outside). Hand-tighten first, then use the wrench to snug it firmly — you don't need to crank it as hard as possible, just firm enough that it won't loosen during riding.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I remove a pedal with just a regular wrench?
Yes. A 15mm wrench works fine for most pedals. A pedal wrench is better because it's thinner and longer, making it easier to fit in the tight space and giving you more leverage. But if you only have a regular wrench, it will do the job as long as you're careful not to slip and damage the crank arm.
What size wrench do I need?
Most pedals use a 9/16-inch axle, so a 9/16-inch wrench is correct. A 15mm wrench is close enough and works in most cases. Check your bike's manual or measure the axle flat with calipers if you're unsure. Using the wrong size risks rounding off the corners and making removal much harder later.
Do I need to remove both pedals at once?
No. You can remove one pedal at a time. You only need to remove both if you're replacing them together, cleaning the crank arms, or servicing the bottom bracket. If you're just replacing one pedal, remove only that one.
What if I cross-threaded the left pedal?
Stop when ready and don't force it further. Cross-threading damages both the pedal axle and the threads inside the crank arm. Take the bike to a repair shop — they can often repair the threads or replace the crank arm if the damage is severe. Forcing a cross-threaded pedal will make the repair much more expensive.
How tight should the pedal be when I put it back on?
Tight enough that it won't loosen during riding, but not so tight that you need a wrench to remove it next time. Hand-tighten it first, then use the wrench to snug it firmly — about the same tightness as tightening a jar lid. If you can't turn it by hand after using the wrench, it's probably too tight.