What a Motion Pro Cable Luber Does and Why You Need One

A Motion Pro cable luber is a hand-operated pump tool that forces lubricant into the inner cable of your motorcycle's throttle, clutch, or brake cables while they sit in their outer housings. Instead of spraying lube on the outside and hoping it seeps in, the luber creates pressure to push oil deep into the cable where friction actually happens. This keeps your cables moving smoothly, prevents rust inside the housing, and extends cable life by years.

Motorcycle cables wear out fastest when dirt and moisture get trapped between the inner cable and outer sheath. A cable luber solves this by delivering fresh lubricant to the exact spot where wear occurs. Most riders find that lubricating cables every season or two — or after riding in wet or dusty conditions — prevents the stiff, sticky feeling that leads to cable replacement.

Key Takeaways

  • A Motion Pro cable luber pumps lubricant directly into cable housings under pressure, reaching the inner cable where friction causes wear.
  • You attach the luber's nozzle to the cable housing at one end, pump the handle, and the pressure forces oil through the entire length of the cable.
  • The process takes five to ten minutes per cable and works on throttle, clutch, and brake cables on any motorcycle.
  • Use a light motorcycle oil or cable-specific lubricant; heavy greases will clog the cable and make it harder to move.
  • Excess lubricant will drip out the other end of the housing, so work over a drain pan or newspaper to catch the mess.

What You Need Before You Start

Gather these items before you begin: the Motion Pro cable luber itself, a light oil (motorcycle-grade cable lube, 10W-30 motor oil, or ATF transmission fluid all work), a drain pan or old newspaper, and a rag. You do not need to remove the cable from the motorcycle — the luber works with the cable in place.

Check that your cable housings are not kinked, crushed, or severely corroded. A luber cannot repair a damaged housing, and forcing pressure into a compromised one may split it further. If a housing looks cracked or the cable feels stuck even before you start, replacement is the better choice. Also confirm that both ends of the housing are accessible — some cables run through tight spaces where the luber nozzle will not fit.

How to Attach and Use the Motion Pro Luber

The Motion Pro luber has a tapered nozzle that slides into the end of your cable housing. Start by positioning the drain pan under the opposite end of the cable housing to catch excess oil that will flow through. Locate one end of the housing — typically the end closest to the lever (throttle or clutch) or the brake caliper.

Slide the luber's nozzle firmly into the end of the housing until it seats snugly. The nozzle should fit tight enough that oil does not leak around the sides when you pump. If the fit is loose, wrap a thin layer of electrical tape around the nozzle to create a tighter seal. Fill the luber's reservoir with your chosen lubricant — most Motion Pro models hold about 2 to 4 ounces.

Once the nozzle is seated, begin pumping the handle slowly and steadily. You will feel resistance as pressure builds inside the housing. Keep pumping until you see oil beginning to drip from the opposite end of the housing. This means the lubricant has traveled the full length of the cable and is pushing out the old, dirty oil. Pump for another 10 to 15 strokes after oil appears at the far end to may support the entire cable is saturated.

Remove the luber nozzle and wipe away any excess oil with your rag. Move the cable back and forth — throttle, clutch, or brake lever — several times to work the fresh lubricant into the cable and distribute it evenly. Wipe the outside of the housing clean and repeat the process for your next cable.

Which Lubricants Work Best

Motion Pro sells a dedicated cable lubricant that is formulated to flow easily through housings without gumming up. This is the safest choice if you want to avoid any guesswork. However, many riders successfully use 10W-30 motorcycle oil, light machine oil, or automatic transmission fluid (ATF). All three are thin enough to pump through a cable housing and provide good protection.

Avoid heavy greases, thick gear oils, or chain lube. These are too viscous to flow through the cable housing under hand-pump pressure, and they will clog the cable instead of lubricating it. If you use ATF, be aware that it has a strong smell and will drip more than thicker oils — work over a drain pan and be prepared for a mess. Whatever you choose, use only a small amount; the luber's reservoir does not need to be completely full.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common error is pumping too hard or too fast. The luber is a hand tool, not a power tool — steady, moderate pressure is all you need. Aggressive pumping can damage the internal seal or force the nozzle out of the housing. If you feel extreme resistance, stop and check that the nozzle is seated properly and that the housing is not kinked or blocked.

Another mistake is using the wrong lubricant. Thick grease or chain lube will not flow through the cable, leaving you pumping fruitlessly while the cable remains dry inside. Stick to thin oils and you will see results when ready. Finally, do not forget to catch the drip at the far end of the housing. Old oil and dirt will pour out, and if you skip the drain pan, you will have a mess on your engine or frame.

What Happens After You Lubricate Your Cables

After lubricating, your cables should feel noticeably smoother. A throttle that was sticky or slow to return should snap back quickly. A clutch that was grabby or hard to pull should engage more smoothly. These improvements usually last for a full riding season, depending on how much you ride and what conditions you encounter.

If a cable still feels stiff or stuck after lubrication, the housing may be damaged internally or the cable itself may be frayed or corroded beyond repair. In that case, replacement is the next step. However, if the cable moves freely after lubrication, you have extended its life and improved your bike's feel at the same time. Repeat the process once a year or after riding in heavy rain or dust.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use the Motion Pro luber on brake cables?

Yes. Brake cables use the same luber and the same process as throttle and clutch cables. Work over a drain pan because brake cable housings often contain more old, dirty oil than other cables. After lubricating, pull the brake lever several times to distribute the new oil throughout the cable.

What if oil does not come out the far end of the housing?

The housing may be kinked, crushed, or completely blocked by old grease or corrosion. Stop pumping and inspect the housing visually. If it looks damaged, replacement is necessary. If it looks intact but the blockage persists, the cable itself may be too corroded to save.

How often should I lubricate my motorcycle cables?

Once per riding season is typical for most riders. If you ride in heavy rain, dust, or salt spray regularly, lubricate every few months. If you store your bike for winter, lubricate before storage to protect the cable over the off-season.

Can I reuse the oil that drips out the far end?

No. The oil that exits the housing is contaminated with rust, dirt, and old grease. Discard it and use fresh lubricant each time you lubricate a cable.

Does the Motion Pro luber work on all motorcycle brands?

Yes. The luber works on any motorcycle cable with a standard housing diameter. The nozzle may need to be wrapped with tape for a tight fit on some older bikes, but the tool is universal across brands and models.