Hub assembly replacement typically runs between $300 and $1,000 per wheel, depending on your vehicle type, whether the part is new or remanufactured, and which shop does the work.

A hub assembly is the component that holds your wheel bearing and connects your wheel to the suspension. When it fails, you cannot safely drive the vehicle. The cost to replace one is not fixed — it varies by whether you own a sedan, truck, or luxury vehicle; whether you go to a dealership, independent shop, or big-box chain; and whether the shop sources a new part, a remanufactured one, or a used one.

Most vehicles need the hub assembly replaced once in their lifetime, often between 100,000 and 150,000 miles, though some fail earlier due to road salt, pothole damage, or bearing defect. Understanding what drives the price difference helps you avoid overpaying and know what to expect when a shop quotes you.

Key Takeaways

  • Hub assembly cost ranges from $300 to $1,000 per wheel, with labor typically $150 to $300 and the part itself $150 to $700 depending on source and vehicle.
  • Dealerships charge the most because they use manufacturer parts and factory labor rates; independent shops and chain stores usually cost 20 to 40 percent less.
  • Remanufactured hub assemblies cost roughly half what new ones do and carry a warranty, making them a middle-ground option between new and used.
  • Some vehicles require replacing the hub on both sides at once due to suspension geometry, which doubles the total cost but is sometimes unavoidable.
  • Getting quotes from at least two shops before committing protects you from inflated pricing and lets you compare parts quality and warranty terms.

How the total cost breaks down: parts and labor

The bill for hub assembly replacement has two pieces: the part itself and the labor to install it. Labor is usually the smaller portion. Most independent shops and chain stores charge between $150 and $300 in labor per wheel, depending on how difficult the job is on your specific vehicle. Some vehicles have the hub bolted on in a straightforward way; others require removing the brake caliper, rotor, and suspension components first, which adds time.

The part cost is where the biggest variation happens. A new hub assembly from the vehicle manufacturer costs $250 to $700 depending on the make and model. A remanufactured hub — one that has been disassembled, cleaned, inspected, and rebuilt to factory specs — costs $150 to $400. A used hub pulled from a salvage vehicle costs $100 to $300 but comes with no warranty and higher risk of early failure. Dealerships almost always install new manufacturer parts. Independent shops and chain stores offer all three options and let you choose.

Dealership labor rates are higher than independent shops, typically $200 to $400 per hour versus $100 to $200 at an independent. On a hub job that takes one to two hours, that difference adds $100 to $400 to your bill before you even account for the part markup dealerships explore.

Price differences between dealerships, independent shops, and chain stores

Dealerships are the most expensive option. They use parts made by the vehicle manufacturer, charge premium labor rates, and often add a markup on the part itself. A hub assembly replacement at a dealership typically costs $600 to $1,000 per wheel. You get the assurance that the part is genuine and the work is done to manufacturer specs, and the warranty is usually straightforward. For luxury vehicles or vehicles still under warranty, dealership work may be required or worth the cost.

Independent repair shops usually cost 20 to 40 percent less than dealerships. They source parts from aftermarket suppliers or remanufacturers, charge lower labor rates, and have less overhead. A hub replacement at an independent shop typically costs $350 to $700 per wheel. Quality varies by shop — a well-reviewed independent shop with experienced technicians is often a better value than a dealership, while a poorly-run one may cut corners. Ask for references or check online reviews before committing.

Chain stores like Firestone, Goodyear, Midas, and Pep Boys fall in the middle. They charge less than dealerships but more than many independent shops, typically $400 to $800 per wheel. They offer standardized pricing, warranties on parts and labor, and the ability to book online. The trade-off is less flexibility on parts choice and sometimes higher markups on labor-intensive jobs.

New versus remanufactured versus used hub assemblies

A new hub assembly is built by the manufacturer or an OEM-approved supplier and has never been installed. It comes with the longest warranty, usually three years or 36,000 miles. New parts cost the most but fail least often. If your vehicle is newer or you plan to keep it long-term, a new hub is the safest choice.

A remanufactured hub has been taken apart, cleaned, inspected, and rebuilt to factory specifications. The bearing is replaced, seals are replaced, and the assembly is tested before sale. Remanufactured hubs cost roughly half what new ones do and typically come with a one-year or two-year warranty. They are a solid middle ground — much cheaper than new but far more reliable than used, with warranty protection if something goes wrong. Most independent shops and chain stores stock remanufactured hubs as their default option.

A used hub pulled from a salvage vehicle is the cheapest option, sometimes $100 to $200, but comes with no warranty and unknown history. You do not know how many miles it has, whether it was damaged before removal, or how long it will last. Used hubs make sense only if you are repairing a vehicle worth very little and cannot afford anything else. Even then, the risk of replacement within a year is high.

When you might need both sides replaced at once

Some vehicles have suspension designs where replacing the hub on one side only creates an imbalance or puts uneven stress on the other side. Front-wheel-drive vehicles especially sometimes require both front hubs to be replaced together, even if only one has failed. All-wheel-drive vehicles may have the same requirement. Your mechanic can tell you whether your vehicle needs one or both, but it is worth asking before you get the quote.

If both sides need replacement, your total cost roughly doubles. A $500 job becomes $1,000. Some shops will replace only the failed side and warranty only that side, leaving you to return later if the other fails. Others recommend doing both at once to avoid a second service call and to may support even wear. Ask the shop whether both sides need replacement and what their warranty covers if the other side fails within a certain timeframe.

Warranty and what it covers

Dealership warranties on hub assemblies are usually three years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first. If the hub fails within that window and the failure is not due to accident or abuse, the dealership replaces it at no cost. Labor is usually covered too.

Remanufactured hub warranties vary by supplier but typically run one to three years. Some warranties cover only the part, not labor. Others cover both. When a shop quotes you a remanufactured hub, ask what the warranty includes and whether it transfers if you sell the vehicle. A one-year parts-only warranty is weaker than a three-year parts-and-labor warranty.

Used hub warranties are rare or nonexistent. If a used hub fails after installation, you typically pay for replacement and labor again. This is one reason used hubs are risky — the savings upfront can vanish if you need a second replacement within a year or two.

How to get an accurate quote and avoid overpaying

Call or visit at least two shops and provide the same information to each: your vehicle's year, make, model, and mileage, and which wheel or wheels need replacement. Ask each shop for a written quote that includes the part cost, labor cost, and warranty terms. Do not accept a phone quote without details — prices vary too much.

When comparing quotes, make sure you are comparing the same thing. A $400 quote with a new hub and three-year warranty is not the same as a $300 quote with a remanufactured hub and one-year warranty. Ask whether the quote includes wheel alignment after installation — some vehicles need it, some do not, but it should be spelled out.

If one quote is significantly lower than others, ask why. It might be a promotional price, a remanufactured part instead of new, or lower labor rates. It might also be a sign that the shop is cutting corners or using low-quality parts. A quote that is 10 to 15 percent lower than others is normal; one that is 40 percent lower warrants a phone call to understand what is different.

Signs your hub assembly is failing and needs replacement soon

Hub assembly failure does not happen overnight. You usually get warning signs. A grinding or humming noise that gets louder as you turn the wheel is the most common sign — the bearing inside the hub is wearing out. Vibration in the steering wheel or brake pedal, especially at highway speeds, can also indicate a failing hub. Some vehicles trigger an ABS warning light when the wheel speed sensor in the hub stops working properly.

If you notice any of these signs, have a shop inspect the hub before it fails completely. A failing hub can eventually seize, which can cause loss of braking or steering control. The longer you wait, the more damage you risk to surrounding components like the brake rotor or suspension parts, which can increase your total repair cost. Getting a hub replaced at the first sign of trouble is cheaper than waiting until it fails and damages other parts.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace just the bearing inside the hub instead of the whole assembly?

On older vehicles, yes — a shop could press out the old bearing and press in a new one. On most modern vehicles, the bearing is pressed into the hub and cannot be serviced separately. Replacing the bearing alone requires special equipment and often costs nearly as much as replacing the whole assembly. Most shops recommend replacing the entire hub assembly because it is faster, more reliable, and comes with a warranty.

How long does a hub assembly replacement take?

Most shops complete a single hub replacement in one to two hours. If both sides need replacement, plan on two to three hours total. Some vehicles with complex suspension or brake layouts take longer. Ask the shop for an estimated completion time when you drop off the vehicle — most can tell you whether it will be ready the same day or the next day.

Will my vehicle be safe to drive if I wait a few weeks to replace a failing hub?

No. A failing hub can seize without warning, which can cause sudden loss of braking or steering. If a shop has told you the hub is failing, schedule replacement within a few days, not weeks. If you cannot afford it when ready, ask whether the shop can do a temporary repair or whether you should avoid highway driving until the hub is replaced.

Is a remanufactured hub as reliable as a new one?

Remanufactured hubs are reliable when they come from a reputable supplier and carry a solid warranty. The bearing is new, seals are new, and the assembly is tested. The main difference is the housing itself is reused. In practice, remanufactured hubs last as long as new ones for most drivers. The warranty difference is usually just a matter of cost, not quality.

What if the shop says I need new brake rotors or pads while replacing the hub?

It is common for shops to recommend brake work when replacing a hub because they have the wheel off and can inspect the brakes easily. Ask whether the brakes are worn or just dirty. If the rotors have less than 2 mm of thickness remaining or the pads are below 3 mm, replacement is necessary. If the shop is recommending replacement on brakes that still have life left, get a second opinion before agreeing.